20 Most Recent 1996 Hyundai Accent - Page 8 Questions & Answers

you need to give more info. what have you done so far. what do you mean won't start? Won't crank?

Well the first step is to get the check engine code read. That should give us a clue.
The only thing that can really cause power surges is a malfunctioning alternator. A bad battery shorting out could cause some problems as well

Timing mark on cam is 20 past [as a clock face]
Pin mark on cam lines up with head casting mark
Crank mark 5 past,line up pin marks

That check engine light is an indication that the engine control computer has thrown a code. You need to get that code read so you know what the problem is.

I would check the coolant temp sensor for the emisions.

1st thing is disconnect battery earth/negative lead make sure you know radio code if needed ? then slacen polt that adjuster slide connects to engine then remove adjuster slide bolt the one thatscrews into alternator now unplug socket/wires from rear of alternator having done these the alternator drive belt off ?you are best to remove alternator complete with its mounting bracket which is secured by two bolts to engine block hope this helps

You need to get a manual. Try the Haynes manual for your car. Try autozone; generally available for around $20. This is not the type of thing that can be covered here in enough detail to do you any good. You need a picture.
Buy new timing belt. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove timing belt cover. make sure cylinder #1 is set at TDC. making sure all components are properly aligned and loosen pensioner to remove old timing belt. Install new timing belt. Tension belt, ensure all components are aligned properly, replace timing belt covers and reconnect battery.

no the factory alternator will not have nearly enought power to operate this amp. Yes the alternator is BOSCH and it has a rated output of 75 Amps, u need at least 140 amps, any really good auto electric shop can supply a rebuilt high output alternator custom built, but it will be very expensive.

check the insulator for carbon tracking down the boot. this was not an uncommon problem for these cars. also check porcelain for cracks and these plugs should be either ngk or nd.

What is the problem? Its most likely is a connector that isnt used on the car.

sounds like a fuel problem,pump or dirty filters ect

Some smart car will shut down the engine if the oil presure is low. If you think it is the case then after you put the oil at correct level, it should start. Since it died while you were driving and you could not start after that, I think the problem is the crankshaft sensor. It is getting bad. Have it check out and replaced.

it should be 1234 or from left to right they should be numbered

pull resavor pump on bottom If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/scott_541ceb86d69e7743

Sounds like a Bad starter solenoid or the Starter has come loose and isn't catching the flywheel correctly.

hi from uk to remove rotors/ discs as in uk remove wheel then remove the sprung clip that holds caliper to mounting remember how fitted ! then remove the 2 x bolts securing caliper to the carrier these are at rear of caliper then remove caliper carefully as not to put undue strain on hose ? the rotors/discs are simply secured to the hub assy with 2x countersunk crossheaded bolts/screwed into hub then you may need to tap disc/rotor firmly from b/hind to remove off hub ? reassembly is reverse proceedure just one bit of advice ! these contersunk bolts can round off the x/head but if you use a good driver and hitimpact the driver in bolt it usually frees em or if you have impact driver ? no problem ! if the bolts fail to come out? do not worry ! just drill off the head of bolt and remove disc/rotor these bolts are onle fitted to keep the wheel bolt holes in line with rotor when wheel is removed so play no part in braking !hope this explains clear to you remember !new rotors new pads! not old ones and make sure you bleed the both brake calipers to rid of old fluid from calipers this will make a dfference to your brake feel and operation/travel of pedal good luck

Insufficient information

Whenever the 'CHECK ENGINE' light comes on, the ECU (Engine Control Unit) sets a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC). These codes identify the particular engine management system which caused the light to come on. At least there is 'FREEZE-FRAME' data stored and the associated DTC.

its on the drivers side right behind the radiator or just to the left of the battery. the dipstick is usually yellow, sometimes it can red,it should be checked when the engine is hot and in neutral. and the eng must be running.