20 Most Recent 2003 Land Rover Discovery - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Have you checked that the inertia switch has not been activated somehow?

The amber light indicates that the ACE ECU has found a fault with the ACE system, you need to take it to a dealer to get the fault codes read. Could be anything from low fluid to a faulty pressure sensor.

Have you followed the instructions with regards the EKA code?
You have to enter the code, then you should hear a noise, two chirps is correct code, one is incorrect. You then have to wait 5 minutes till the dash light stops flashing. You then have a 30 second window to open the door and start the vehicle before the engine is immobilised. Do not open the car during the 5 minute window. It's detailed in the manual btw.

Nope, it's held in by two screws on each light IIRC, undo these and the light assembley will be able to be wiggled out to change the bulb. Repeat for the other side.

Yes, the window frame and window glass need removing. Make sure to buy some trim clips, and I'd advise buying a trim tool also to avoid busting the thin mdf the trim is backed with.

The clusters are held into the bumper with a spring, if you feel round behind the cluster you should be able to pop it out. The springs face inwards. You can then unplug the connector and open up the cluster and replace the bulb.

Well, assuming you're referring to Centre Fuse Set Number 9, it's the Rear Fog Guard Lights, should be a 10A fuse.

Mass Air Flow sensor at a guess, if it's a diesel, is it boosting ok?

Pull the bonnet release. On RHD vehicles the release is in the LH footwell on the side under the glove compartment. I think that on LHD vehicles it's still on the LH side.

I have known of people doing this, but mainly on defenders. YMMV, but perhaps search the Landie Forums out there to get more info on this!

Using a biro, or blunt point, prod the holes below the clock. Left one does hours, right one does minutes.

Likely to be caused by the actuators in the lock mechanism failing usually causing the door to remain locked. The boor door can also fail this way, as do the front side doors. Replacement requires the whole lock unit to be replaced at a cost of roughly £60 a lock, and a hours work. Helps if you have small hands. Requires a full strip down of the door and you will need the lock unit, trim clips (a few quid) and a trim removal tool (tenner). You can bodge with a flat head screwdriver, but the tool does help prevent damage to the clips & trim panel.

Likely to be caused by the actuators in the lock mechanism failing usually causing the door to remain locked. The boor door can also fail this way, as do the front side doors. Replacement requires the whole lock unit to be replaced at a cost of roughly £60 a lock, and a hours work. Helps if you have small hands. Requires a full strip down of the door and you will need the lock unit, trim clips (a few quid) and a trim removal tool (tenner). You can bodge with a flat head screwdriver, but the tool does help prevent damage to the clips & trim panel.

1) This is more likely to be the door lock unit, and this can be caused by the actuators in the lock mechanism failing usually causing the door to remain locked. Replacement requires the whole lock unit to be replaced at a cost of roughly £60 a lock, and a hours work. Helps if you have small hands.Requires a full strip down of the door and you will need the lock unit, trim clips (a few quid) and a trim removal tool (tenner). You can bodge with a flat head screwdriver, but the tool does help prevent damage to the clips & trim panel.
2) Probably the bulbs. Easy to change, with a pozi, undo the 2 screws holding the binnacle to the dash (lower the steering wheel and you'll see the holes) pull firmly towards you till the clips release. Then there are 4 screws, 2 per side on the instrument cluster. Unplug the multi-plugs and lift towards you. Don't overturn, or you can damage the guages. Twist bulbs free, and test with a multimeter (blown ones will be open circuit). They will be a few quid from the dealer each.
3) Radio code will need stealer action I'm afraid. Try and independent perhaps and proffer beer money?

No, likely to be caused by the actuators in the lock mechanism failing usually causing the door to remain locked. The boor door can also fail this way, as do the front side doors. Replacement requires the whole lock unit to be replaced at a cost of roughly £60 a lock, and a hours work. Helps if you have small hands. Requires a full strip down of the door and you will need the lock unit, trim clips (a few quid) and a trim removal tool (tenner). You can bodge with a flat head screwdriver, but the tool does help prevent damage to the clips & trim panel.

Possibly the height sensors or valve block at fault. Or a compressor failure. May need to be put on the diagnostics machine to check.

Suggests either Wheel Bearing, ABS Sensor Fault, or Shuttle valve. Best to get it to a dealer and on the computer for them to diagnose what exactly is wrong.

Could be a faulty valve block, or the height sensors are faulty.

Suggests a problem with the Automatic Gear box ECU, or X/Y selector switch. Can also be water in the connector as it joins the gearbox, or someone's knocked the ECU which is under the passenger seat (RHD).
Sometimes this can be cleared by stopping, turning off the ignition, and starting again and it's fine. It's alerting you that it is in 'Limp Home' mode (3)