20 Most Recent 2003 Kia Spectra - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Mostly sockets,probably mostly metric ones

do you have to release the pressure from the brake line from the bleeder? I had this problem with a old motorhome,... turns out some one used something else besides brake fluid in the master cylinder, brake fluid wont expand under heat, tranny fluid or oil, etc does...so it expands i n the brake system,and the pressure pushes the pads to the rotor and there for nowhere to go. Try flushing the whole brake line master cylinder etc....and put new Brake Fluid throughout. Bet that works. :::?"""""???

If the clippers stopped cutting, they are probably clogged with hair on the inside of the clippers. I had two pairs of clippers where this happened. I took them to be serviced at a beauty supply store and they cleaned the hair from the inside of both pairs of clippers for me and they now work just fine.

1/2 inch deflection on the longest side of the belt.

Obviously a older vehicle, should be tight enough that you have about 1/2 of play in it when you push on it by hand

WhT actually is happening and what car?

What kill switch ??If the engine cranks but does not start, someone would need to figure out if you are missing spark to the plugs or fuel to the injectors to have a direction to troubleshoot.

Hi Sean, I'm glad to help! Sean, the only suggestion I can give in this case is. It sounds like it may be flooding out. This could be because of leaking injectors. What happens is when you turn the engine off the injector will continue to leak into the cylinder until there is an abundance of gas then when you try to start the engine the gas needs to clear before it will start and your smelling all that raw fuel being pushed out of the tail pipe. If you are mechanically inclined then remove the fuel rail and while watching the tips turn the key to the on position. CAUTION: DO NOT try to start the engine, simply turn the key to the on position. If one are more injectors are leaking after turning the key off then replace the leaking injectors. NOTE: Sometimes carbon build-up on the injector tip will also cause then to leak. Hope this helps and have an awesome day Sean.

28-34 ft. lbs.

Hope this helps you...

1996, ok cars have 2 to 5 speed sensors.so saying that means nothing.but 734 does, first post ever with speed and code in one. usually its not.1996 what , kia? or Infiniti? perplexed i am.734that is tranny, code, so why condemn the sensori do take it off and clean the black magnetic crap on the end every time. do so , often. and win.Trouble Code Conditions:NOTE: If DTC U1000 is displayed with this DTC, first perform the trouble diagnosis for DTC U1000. Diagnostic trouble code P0734 is detected when A/T cannot be shifted to the 4th gear position even if electrical circuit is good. Possible Causes:

• Shift solenoid valve A (On stick.)
• Shift solenoid valve B (On stick.)
• Shift solenoid valve C (On stick.)
• Pressure control solenoid valve A (On stick.)
• Forward and direct clutch assembly
• U/D clutch
• U/D brake
• 2nd coast brake
• One-way clutch No.1
• Hydraulic control circuit

(so the FSM then has you conduct many tests to find true cause.)_A/T are very very complex animals.did you connect a scan tool that can SEE ALL factory DTC codes>if not , you are blind.. cheap readers dont do that. they blind you.the TCM can tell that 4th is not attainedby seeing the VSS speed too slow, that means the tranny is slippingor is not in 4th gear, or the VSS fibbing its buns off (clean it , reset code, and drive)

Clarify your question. If it is overheating with the new radiator, how badly?. bubbles in the overflow tank? Jack up front and take cap off and burp radiator overnight. One suspects air bubbles, or the wrong water thermostat not opening for whatever reason.ensure water thermostat has a hole drilled through it If its the electronic 'fan' thermostat, you are addressing the symptom not the problem. If the car has 300kms/150K miles, could be a head gasket leak - exhaust to water. Check radiator fluid for traces of exhaust gas.

what if it don't want to change.... joking.... all steps, you want all FSM steps, ? and photos, and drawings? I login to alldata.com for cusotmers (im retired) for my cars I have a real FSM. Factory Service Manual (real) mine has 7000 pages......(almost zero guessing now) buy one.? i teach folks how to fish, most don;t know INFO is online now...most. but I'LL do the generic.;

1. remove the battery minus lug. or get an acid bath..
2. Gain access to starter (hands) take of parts that come of easy, LOOK?
3. Remove all wire to the STARTER solenoid.
4. Unbolt starter.
5. starter falls off bell housing.

install is reverse of above. any questions.? get stuck? say where.

Universal Answer, probably an air bubble in the wrong spot - under the thermostat would be the worst outcome. Follow remove air bubble procedures, drill a hole in the thermostat so this cannot ever occur. The quick fix. Unscrew radiator cap and leave off overnight - hopefully the radiator will 'burp'. Idle for a few mins with cap off. Then replace / cap on and see if this is fixed. The pessimist. You recently bought this car secondhand. There is a gasket issue where exhaust gas is venting into the water gallery. Fix will be head gasket repair gunk - but only as a last resort - if teh radiator guys detect c02/gas in the radiator fluid - they have a test kit for same

inhibitor of WHAT. name it.

Try taking the relay out and putting it back in. If that does not work, you should try to replace the relay. this has happen to my wife's car before. on 04 kia rio

My 1988 HD 883 SPORTSTER WONT GO INTO GEAR. WHEN TRYING IT GRINDS When not running it wont go into gear either

• They said "they thought you didn't have a leak" but charged your AC system? That is exactly the type of statement I expect to hear from them. Your AC system is sealed. If it never leaks it will never need a charge. They lied to you or that person was just that ignorant. To check for a leak you have to put the system under a vacuum and see if the system maintains the same pressure over a period of an hour at least. If it does not then you have a leak and if it does then you do not have a leak. No human can look and tell if there is a leak.

• Now when you say the AC stopped working do you mean the blower is not blowing the cold air out? Or do you mean the blower is working fine but cold air is just not coming out of the vents? What do you mean "clicks on after a while." Do you mean like the compressor clicks on? Or the blower motor?

• If the issue is the blower motor then this could be the blower motor resistor. What the blower motor resistor does is bias the different speeds by allowing more current through as you adjust the speed of the blower from low,med,high etc. When it goes bad sometime it goes bad gradually and one speed will go out and then another etc. Sometimes it just goes bad all at once.

• If this is a compressor issue then you want to check the AC clutch relay under the hood in the relay panel. When you turn the AC on it should "click" right away to indicate it is on. If it does not click replace the relay.

• If the AC does not blow all the time but when it does it is cold as it should be then your system is charged. If it blows warm then take it to a reliable honest mechanic and have them put some dye in the lines that will indicate where the leak is and provide honest assistance in the best way to repair it.

• If you have any comments or questions please feel free to ask.
• Thank you for using FixYa.

Regards, Tony

UNDER THE HOOD NEAR THE FIREWALL TOWARDS BACK OF ENGINE COMPARTMENT THERE SHOUL BE A DIPSTICK TUBE FOR CHECKING TRANNY FLUID LEVEL THIS IS WHERE YOU MUST POUR THE FLUID BACK INTO TRANNY USING A PROPER FUNNEL FOR THE TASK TO PREVENT SPILLAGE ONTO MOTOR, & EXHAUST MANIFOLD. IF FRONT WHEEL DRIVE IT MAY BE LOCATED TOWARDS FRONT OF ENGINE COMPARTMENT.