20 Most Recent 2005 Lexus RX330 - Page 9 Questions & Answers

I also own a rx 330 and my car has the same error. This is a manufacture defect. Unfortunalely if your car is no longer under warranty the price to replace is approx $800. The cost for the radio is $650 and labor is $150. The lexus dealership will tell you that they won't fix it as they are unable to but they will order a new one. There are many other blogs regarding other lexus rx 330 owners who have experienced the same problem. I have been searching tirelessly to find a way to avoid paying the monies as my car is out of warranty. I have had no success. I wish you the best.

Its not a common problem and its probably going to be expensive. Id say probably 5-8hrs labor. parts shouldnt be too expensive its just rtv silicone.

You will need to access the back of the vehicle either in the cargo area behind the rear seat or under, the seat... not sure which model year used which location but try behind the seat first.. This will involve removing the liner and the housings underneath it so you are down to the metal of the floor boards

you need to know if ots beeping when you press the button,if not check the fuse,if it beeps and you can hear the motor try to move it in the rear left inside panel,in Australia may be right in O S model,something has come off or broken inside the mechanism,if theres no noise at all check the fuses,or switch is playing up,based on what youve said thats as much info as I can give you as this point good luck

North American specs are 160,000km as outlined in Warranty and services guide.
I believe cost here at a dealer is approx $400 US, The car is capable of running well in excess of 300,000km.
My 2001 has 268,000km and counting, this is my 4th Toyota product over 250,000 km.

Twist and pull. The 5 SMD LED's look quite nice too.

school zones can be set up in preferences, red light and speed cameras, no.

the cd unit will need replaced. check with your lexus dealer this item may still be under warranty. cd units are not repaired at dealerships, they are exchanged for new or refurbushed units. if you have to pay for it make sure you ask for the difference in price between new and refurbed. refurbs work great.

sounds to me like either the drive shaft axle bearing is wearing out or the rear end gear on the left side uis going out. check the rear end for gear oil level if its low that could mean your rear end is about to go out.

spray it with lubracant and push in and out a couple times.

There are 3 programmable Homelink buttons you can use for different remotes. Just to the right of the buttons there is an indicator light.

Decide which button you want to program. Point the none battery end of your remote 1"-3" away from the Homelink panel and press both the remote and desired Homelink button down and hold them down at the same time. After about 20 seconds, the Homelink indicator light will change from a slow flashing to a rapid flashing. You can then release both buttons,
If the garage door responds to the Homelink, your done! If not, your garage door uses a rolling codes transmitter and must be trained.
Find the training button on your garage door opener's transmitter (usually mounted on the ceiling). Press the training button and within 30 seconds press and release the programmed Homelink button twice. If the garage door opener operates, you're done! If not, press and release the Homelink button a third time and the garage door should respond. If it still does not, you may have a very old garage door opener with a none digital transmitter (like I did). In that case, you either need to buy a new opener or try to replace the transmitter with a modern digital unit (as I did). Advantage: cheaper than a whole new garage door opener.
Disadvantage: The newer openers incorporate safety features that my old opener does not have.

reset: turn ignition on...push odometer button till it displays mileage on car...not trip milage but actual mileage. Turn car off. Open driver's door, press and hold odometer button....turn ignition to on....hold odometer button for 10 seconds....odometer display will show -----,----,---,--,-,0000000....maintenance lights are reset...lights will come on every 7500 miles to remind you to change oil and check fluids etec....

could be a fault in your alarm

has to be done at the dealer. they will charge you a fee. has to be hooked to scan tool.

Okay if you have condensation in them now take out your headlight housing and your bulbs. Let them sit in the sunlight until the condensation has evaporated and use a glass cleaner to clean up any spots. Then get some clear RTV from an auto parts store or Wal-Mart maybe 2 or 3 tubes and seal all the around the headlight housing. If you have projection style headlight the rubber boot on the back can let in moisture if not properly sealed. Make sure this has a tight fit and if you notice a hole use some of the RTV around it. Repeat this procedure with the other side. I hope you have good luck with your project!

most likely a capless bulb or its comes with the seat/holder .

I would spend $5.00 and purchase a 12 volt test light from an autoparts store or hardware store, that way you can test them all, quickly, without pulling them. If there's one thing we've all learned over the years in the autorepair field, is that it's not uncommon, for a circuit to be labeled wrong, or added to another circuit & not labeled at all. A test light will be a welcomed tool in your tool box, and will come in handy more than you think. If it doesn't come with easy, simple instructions, let us know and a 2 minute explanation of where & how to use it will do the trick I'm sure.

Try to note things when it does happen such as how many in vehicle, or vehicle loaded, weather, road conditions, driving conditions,(stop & go, or highway) etc. Also, there are a number of TSB's (technical service bulletins) currently out on those for similar problems, and it appears only the dealers have all the details on them, so I'd be tempted to contact the dealer a.s.a.p.