20 Most Recent 1998 BMW 5 Series - Page 7 Questions & Answers

its going to seize!!
needs rebuild
low compression [no power] pistons & rings are damaged & the squealing will be them binding in the cylinders!

Check to see if your brake pads and rotors are in good condition. Or if you have replaced the pads yourself and have not reset the wheel sensors this would cause the ABS Antilock Brake System light and the ASC Automatic Stability Control light to stay on as the ASC uses the ABS brakes with computer assistance to control the traction of the car if not fixed it can affect your rev limiter and slow performance

Check/replace all sensors .. ECU

slipping clutch? What is the question?

That sounds to me like your vent "tubing" is disconnected somewhere along the line. I am not sure exactly how it is set up in the vehicle you are driving, but I am certain fixing it will involve taking apart most all of your interior then putting it back together after a 10 minute fix.

An overheating engine will often shudder and make a unique popping/rattling noise. Is it doing that? If it ever does that it's time to call a tow truck or further risk major engine repairs.
Try turning on your heater. Your heater makes its heat by blowing air through a mini-radiator (like the one at the front of your car) and pushing that hot air through to the inside of the car. Is the air coming out of the vents warm to normally hot or I-just-opened-the-oven make your skin tingle hot? Check and make sure you have coolant (when the engine is cool) and fill to where it should be. There may not be enough to circulate through the cooling system but enough to hit the temp. sensor and give you warnings.

Unfortunately there are several possibilities that are common to causing the light to come on. I would suggest taking the car in to a dealer and having them read out the fault memory. Such possibilities are a failed speed sensor, a binding DSC/ACS actuator cable, or faulty DCS/ASC control unit. If you know how, you can disconnect the speed sensors, and check for voltage output across the the terminals inside the connector going to the speed sensor while rotating the wheel. A dealer should charge you about an 1hour fee to check out your system. Due to the cost of parts involved, I would recommend having it checked before just guessing.

Take off the panel with the sunroof button on it there should be a hex wrench in there, there is also a hex fitting, turn this to maually close the sunroof. If the hex wrench is missing you can use any hex wrench that will fit.

it should work as long as you buy the correct wire harness for your car go to an auto parts store and look for the harness for your make and model also if you want to get it proffesionally installed where ever you go should carry the harness so you shouldnt have to buy one if thats the path you choose

It's normal don't worry about it that light draws hardly any amps.

replace relays and fuses for the power seat and windows.change dash light bulbs.if bulbs are good you got wiring problem check ground wires.

YOU NEED A RESET TOOL IF YOU DONT WANT TO PAY TO HAVE IT DONE LOOK ON EBAY THE THE RESET TOOL

hi, to program the keys to the vehicle is quite simple

1) open the vehicle, sit inside and close the door

2) insert the key in the ignition and turn to position 1 so that just the air bag light illuminates

3) press and hold the unlock button on the key and remove the key from the ignition (do not release the unlock button)

4) while still holding the unlock button with the key removed press the lock button 3 times

5) release the unlock button on the remote and the door locks should lock and unlock if the proceedure has been carried out correctly

6) to program any other key(s) press and hold the unlock button on remote and again press the lock button 3 times but do not insert it into the ignition or turn the ignition on as done previous.

you may want to print these instructions and read them a few times before proceeding, if you muck up the process while programing keys, no harm will be done, you just have to start the process over. hope this is of some help, regards mark.

I seemed to have run into a website that you might want to check out. about a 1/4 the way donw the page


http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57010

hi Alex, your symptoms really do point to a failed electrical ignition switch. one possibility is that the dealer gave you the wrong part. there are actually 2 different electrical ignition switches. both will fit. just double check to make sure you have the right one. I would also try, removing the cluster and disconnecting, waiting, and reconnecting the plugs at the back. sometimes the electronics in the cluster can lock up.

Wit the door open, using a srewdriver, use it to throw the catch, then see if the latch locks into position. if it doesn't then a new catch will be required as the locking latch spring inside the latch would have broken

I think you should just let it be problems like this always happen with the older bmw's at times you will not even be able to move your seat or the steering colum but it will come back on before to long .

If you let it warm up first it should not run ruff .Its the car staying in low gear to warm up the catalytic converter faster so that it can cut the amount of pollution that the is car producing .For the clean-air laws.

i need to know engine size or model like 528i or 540i