2008 Mercedes-Benz Mercedes Benz Ml Class - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

TURN KEY ON TO POSTION 1. YOU SHOULD SEE MILEAGE/TRIP DISPLAY. THEN PRESS 'R' THREE TIMES QUICKLY. YOU SHOULD NOW SEE BATTERY VOLTAGE DISPLAYED. USE NAVIGATION BUTTONS TO SCROLL TO SERVICE MENU SCREEN WHERE YOU WILL SEE CONFIRMATION. CONFIRM SERVICE. YOU WILL USE THE FORWARD/BACK PAGE BUTTONS, PLUS AND MINUS, AND UP DOWN ARROW BUTTONS ON STEERING WHEEL.

- P0670 states there is a problem with the glow plug control module or glow plug(s) - P0670 Glow Plug Mod Control Circuit - Standard DTCs (ISO 15031-6/SAE J2012): Glow Plug Control Module Control Circuit/Open Read more: http://mbworld.org/forums/diesel-forum/485795-2008-gl320-cdi-cel-p0670.html#ixzz33DhzVypf

This noise is caused by the belt tensioner pulley - solution is to replace the assembly. If the noise is only present when the engine is cold, it could be the exhaust manifold.

it's a trap, i quess.

It's been a while, you go through the glass.. the big glass.. grab it lightly
slide it up adn then over left.. the bottom glass.. slide it left and the up and right at the same time.. its a little touchy so be patient.. now i cant remember but i think you have to removed the motor.. then you can access the bulb behind it.. best of luck!!

Check coolant level . leaking fuel lines while running and stopped, gas tank filler cap , temperature censor ,low oil pressure , crank censor and fuel pump . Could also be the ECU ...

I realize this question was asked nearly 2 yrs ago, but for someone else's benefit, Ill add suggestions. The symptom of shuddering during acceleration can be caused by several things: Mass Air Flow sensor; air escaping the charge air system (follow the plumbing from the turbo through the aluminum pipe down the front through the intercooler on the right side, out the intercooler on the passenger side and up into the air intake looking for oily areas where pressurized air may be escaping. On the exhaust side, a gasket in the manifold, turbo, or further back in the catalyst or DPF may also be contributing. Also, on the DPF, there is a pressure differential sensor. Also, EGR valve, EGR cooler, EGR plumbing and finally air intake may be coked up with carbon - if that is the case, you need to remove both air intakes (painful job) and clean them - while at it, replace the the butterfly valve connectors with aluminum connectors from the internet and be done with the plastic ones, and the motor that connects them. Further, the turbo actuator may have failed - without more sophisticated Mercedes-specific diagnostic equipment, this is a very difficult condition to diagnose, but you and a friend can generally rev the engine to around 2k rpm and look for leaks and sprays.

Check the wires under the seat for any bare spots, sounds like there is a short in the line.....

no it is more likely that the problem is in the EVAP system code p 0455 refers to evaporative emission(EVAP)system---large leak detected ====causes --hose connections ---intake leak---EVAP cannister---EVAP canister purge valve I would suggest to you to tell the mechanic to replace the EVAP purge valve as the problem is more likely to be that than the fuel tank

Test coolant temp sensor.

I suspect that it is not the compressor as it is filling the system I would be checking for non return valves in the system that is allowing the pumped air back to the compressor and not storing in the air bags or accumulator tank to answer your question , the car should not sink down as the non-return valves should hold it in place but if you are concerned jack up the car and place it on jack stands so that the weight of the car is not on the air bags

What year ?

Hi Anthony: Try opening a window just a bit and see if it stops. Get someone else to help you by sitting in different seats to see if they can tell where the sound is coming from. Chances are that you are on the right track with the seals so check them all to make sure they are clean. You could wipe them with a conditioner like Armour-All. That sometimes helps.

I am assuming this is a first generation ML. If so, your first diagnostic step is to try starting the car with a new key. If a new key does not work, you likely have a faulty all activity module which requires factory level diagnostic equipment to replace.

Sounds as if you have current in the "start" mode, but none in the "run" mode. Check that ignition switch is wired correctly. Is the column you installed EXACTLY the same year and model?

Need more info to help you with
This.

if you have a multi meter disconnect positve battery terminal and put red wire to battery and black to battery cable put multi meter on resistance should be 0.005 or less if more then check for things that may be plugged in to cig lighter etc turn door lights off etc dont turn key on any more than 0.005 will drain battery

Check for the battery power if is enough to give a crank start,check for the battery terminals if they are clean to get a good contact,also check for the ignition switch itself,or check whether the power wire connected on to the starter either is corroded or disconnected.

LIMP MODE . OWNERS MANUAL WILL COVER THIS

sounds as if the battery is flat charge it up then try it if it was ok before you left it for a month it should be fine if not check the vacume pump which is under the rear seat just to make sure its working you can here if its working by turning the key in the door there is no motors or any thing in the doors as it works of air