Brinkmann Kitchen Appliances - Others - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals

No. You are probably having a thermal safety switch failure. It measures the heat from the flame, and when its hot enough, it tells the gas valve to stay open. It's a safety feature to turn off the gas if the flame blows out, keeps things from going boom. Can't find a parts diagram to verify part numbers, or a manual to be certain. Typically, the red switch is to be held up til the flame is going, after lighting the flame, then released once flame is lit, 5-10 seconds is usually enough.

Yo! the Dang pan has to be filled and on the burner which makes contact with the auto shut off sensor that is measuring the temp of the pan. The weight of the filled pan holds that Lil temp sensor down and allows the gas to continuously flow as if you were holding that Lil red button. So after hours of trying to light it without the pan you should find that it does work with the filled pan on the burner holding the red button, stick a match in the hole and let the button go and watch the blue flames flow. My gripe now is that it shuts off after the oil temp reaches 250 to 260 degrees then you have to reignite. Oh yeah my 10lb Turkey was crazy tasty.

How long two cook a 20 pond a how hot do I make oil

Hi Larry, W/D here. Just got your question so I'm a bit late in getting back to you...... The amount of heat delivered at the burner is dependent on a number of things, and we'll take them in the order of most likely:1st, The gas tip must be clear. It's possible for critters to build nests in the gas delivery piping that can plug either the gas delivery port or the air side of the mixing venturi; both will give you a reduction in BTU's. Compressed air can be used to blow out the air side of the venturi. The orifice for tha gas can be cleaned with a thin wire, or use a tip cleaner, available at a welding supply store. These are inexpensive.2nd, The burner proper can become plugged at the ports where the mixed gas/air combusts. These can be cleaned with a small drill bit,sized to the holes, and just passed back and forth to clean them out. Compressed air works well to remove any particles remaining.3rd, The regulator may be defective. If this is the case, you'll need to replace it as it contains no user serviceable parts.4th, the in-line regulating valve may be sticking in the partially open position. This is difficult to diagnose, however, and is more of an assumption, after all other causes are eliminated. The cure for this is replacement also.Hope that this was helpful to you.Best regards, --W/D--

Make sure that the thermopile is clean and properly heated.

Hello, W/D here.
The setting of the air damper takes a minute to explain. Without a damper, the burner will pull in as much air into the throat of the burner (called the venturi) as the pressure of the gas will allow. That is, as the gas passes under pressure through the venturi, it creates a vacuum, which is filled by air. This is ineffecient, as it gives excess air a free ride, and costs you gas to heat it.
Setting the damper reduces the amount of air allowed into the burner. The ideal setting is one that allows all of the propane to be burned, without pulling in too much air. A setting of about 50% open is usually close to right. When assembling the burner, the gas line usually connects to the burner, passing through the middle of the damper plate.
Best regards, --W/D--

I bought my fryer in November 2010 worked good for that Thanksgiving. Went to use it this year and thermocuople kept shutting off I used a brick to kep red button pressed in.After turkey day I removed my thermocouple and installed a direct conection. I used a McMaster-Carr p/n 93590A220; Metric 18-8 Stainless Steel Coupling Nut M8 Screw Sz, 1.25mm Pitch, 38mm Length, 16mm Width, $7.95. I'm not sure about the exact thread size the Brinkman hose end and brass fitting on burner uses. However, I found 8mm threads to be the closet. Use thread sealant and it works great!I tried 1/16" pipe fitting bit it is not correct.

make sure that u have the right amount of oil of ure choice and 5 min per lb probe with fork if it spins freely turkey is done ( FYI after you checked ure turkey take out of oil and dust turkey with some seasoned flour drop back in oil for 2 min for great outside crust as said in louisiana "that what u call a deep fryed JO---JO

use a center block to keep the red switch up and your good..that's what we did

THIS IS FROM BRIKMANN WEBSITE SUPPORTMake sure the tip of the thermocouple is located over the edge of the burner so that it gets hot when the burner is in operation. Also, check all the wiring connections to make sure nothing has come loose. It is also important to use the turkey fryer with the pot that comes with the unit. The pot must sit on the spring loaded temperature switch in order to determine the temperature of the liquid in the pot.

first check the gas regulator is the presher right? then try cleaning out all the pipe work and the burner jets i bet you have a dead spider stuck in the gas pipe as it enters the burners,,this would upset the air to gas mix,,so its running on a rich gas mix

If that is what the directions say to do,hold for 30 seconds and it will stay lit and it doesn't,I would say maybe the gas valve is not open enough,since there is fire that's probably not likely because even if there was a little,it should stay lit.Is there enough air ventilation around it?I am pretty sure you do so I would say take it back and exchange it.Fire 101=air,combustible material,ignition.If you have done everything by the book more than 1 time and have nothing still,it is faulty.After 30 seconds,that is plenty of time for the gas to reach where it needs to,that is why they say 30 seconds.
Good luck! Greg

Lets discuss a couple of possibilities...
1) When you are holding the regulator, and regulator is attached to the fitting that screws into the bulk tank, the burner is able to fire. But, if you let go, burner goes out.

Likely that the Excess Flow Valve is damaged / not assembled correctly. You may be able to buy a pig tail propane connector and replace the connector if the connections are threaded. Most are crimped though.

2) When you hold the regulator in your hand, in particularly covering up a discharge vent / equalization port on the regulator, propane is now able to flow where it needs to go.

Then the regulator likely has a damaged diaphragm in it. Easily replaced with aftermarket regular for such appliances that are available at retail stores, as well as specialty stores geared towards recreational vehicles.

3) This one is a bit harder to diagnose... If the ambient temperature is cold already, and holding the regulator allows burner to light, letting go of the regulator should result in the burner flame getting smaller until it goes out. It may also shutoff very quickly if temperature is very cold.

Your bulk tank / propane supply has been contaminated with moisture. Moisture has accumulated inside the regulator, and the expanding propane liquid to propane gas is freezing the moisture, cutting off propane flow. This is actually quite common. To further test this, take a towel, soak in hot water, wrap around the regulator (don't block vents though). If burner continues to burn normally, you have a moisture problem. Either your cylinder (20#?) has moisture in it, or the regulator assy has been allowed to get wet. Either way, plan on replacing the regulator (I would do lines as well). Replacements are available from Large Blue Retail Stores as well as specialized stores for recreational vehicle worlds.

Take the plug and take off the safety cap and insert it into the side of the fryer. It should heat up then. If there is a t'stat, turn it to the setting that is probably marked. Good luck.

if it is a large spring it might slip over the gas line to insalate it on the burner end

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