No power to tstat - Mastercool 67471 Evaporative Cooler Air Conditioner

The 6360 is a low voltage tstat. Sounds like you needed a high voltage tstat. With wires carefully separated and power on, test voltage to determine if you need a 24 volt or 110 volt tstat

may be a bad tstat. turn power off. put red green and yellow together inside stat. turn power on. if machine runs and cools, and stays cooling you need a new tstat. this is bypassing the tstat, nothing will turn your air off except the breaker. dont leave it this way.

you must tell the tstat if it controls a heatpump or straight cool unit. If you dont know provide model numbers of outdoor unit. If this is correct turn power off to indoor unit and combine the red green and yellow wires inside tstat and turn power on. If indoor AND OUTDOOR units run are you heating or cooling??? If all is running and it is heating turn power off and add the "O" to the bunch and turn power back on. NO NEED TO PUT FACE PLATE ON TSTAT. this is bypassing tstat for test purposes. If system now cools with indoor and outdoor units running you have a setup issue with the tstat. FIRST BE SURE TO TAKE A PIC OF THE WIRING. Follow up with me with outcome I'll help u further.

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Likely needs replaced, I've seen bad tstats come right out of the box. Good Luck!!

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79

I don't know what you're trying to control - but wiring single pole (or double pole for that matter) switches - or in this case - thermostats in parallel will cause the load (dampers?) or operate and will remain operating until NEITHER thermostat is calling for cooling.

L1 is Hot
N is Neutral
T1 is TStat 1
T2 is TStat 2
D is Damper

1) Either TStat closing on rising temp will close and power D with 120V.
2) D remains powered until BOTH T1 and T2 are cold enough (satisfied) and opens.
3) When BOTH T1 and T2 are cold, power is interrupted and D de-energizes until one of the TStats calls for cooling again.

NOTE: It is possible for one TStat location to be driven TOO cold - as long as one of the TStats is calling for cooling, D will remain powered.

Check your Tstat "G" and "R" terminals for 24-28 volts across them when it cycles back on. No power? Then you have a defective Tstat. Power available across "R" and "G" Check for loose connection on Tstat and board or broken wire.

This is probably a Tstat problem. Replace the Tstat and this will solve the problem.

Good day,
Sounds like a bad timer to me. Forget the tstat. Power comes from the power cord and goes directly to the tstat. The tstat sends the power to the timer where it is directed to either the compressor or defrost heaters as needed.
Recheck your plug connector to the timer carefully. I have installed many timers that did not work, or work right, right out of the box.
As well, to cover yourself, I would replace the defrost tstat which is located behind the rear panel in the freezer compartment.
It's a small round disk clipped to the top of the cooling coil, and is the component that is by far, the component that fails most often.
Check the connections to the main heater as well, while your in there.
The defrost tstat looks like this.

Turn off power to tstat. Go to program and reprogram tstat after power is restored to stat. If problem continues you have a bad tstat. Rus

Letter designations for honeywell tsats R=24 volt power, W=heat, Y=cooling, G=fan, C=common wire for the 24volt power to tstat. Generally R is the red tstat wire and so on. Blue tstat wire can be hooked up to common at the tstat. On the heater the blue tstat wire would be hooked up to the C terminal. But this also depends on the manufacturer of heating unit.