Fitting Electrical Shower -electrician will do final connection at consumer unit
Distance from consumer unit to shower including drops from ceiling to units approx 12metres Propose removing bath and fitting 9.5 0r 10.5 electric shower at end where taps were.This is tiles on a studded panel and I am hoping to be able to push up a flexible plastic cold water connector pipe to the shower fitting location, I don`t know whether the tiles are on plasterboard or plywood. There is a blanked off 15mm mains water pipe at the base which I am intending to connect to. Electric cable to come to shower position from loft above Any observations on securing the shower fitment would be welcome! Proposed size of cable 10mm Does this run from consumer unit (trip type) to ceiling control switch (45am pull switch)to shower fitment? Will tiling be waterproof enough for shower? or would you suggest raking out joints and regrouting? Many thanks in advance, Roger PS done it before but needing a refresher any advice welcome
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This sounds like a problem with the flow switch(es) that control the operation of the pump motor.
When the pressure decreases I assume that the pump has switched itself off - check this before going any further, but I will assume that this is the case. (If the pump is still running when the pressure decreases then you have a really strange problem and I would need to think again).
The pump motor is controlled by flow switches on the outlet side of the pump - when the shower valve is opened the flow of water activates a switch that supplies power to the pump motor. There will be one flow switch on the hot outlet from the pump and another on the cold outlet.
I assume that one or both of the flow switches is not operating correctly. This can be either a fault with the switch(es) or insufficient water pressure on the inlet side. Has anything changed that might have reduced the pressure on the inlet side of the pump? Have you moved the water tank that supplies the pump? (cold water storage tank)
If there is adequate pressure on the inlet then one or both of the flow switches is not working correctly. To further diagnose the problem try turning the shower valve to cold water only and test the operation of the pump, then turn it to hottest and test again.
If the pump operates correctly on cold only or hot only then the associated flow switch is OK, and the other one is faulty.
Replacing a flow switch is not difficult if you are reasonably handy, and I am happy to provide further help if you need it.
The overflow pipe is a pressure relief device which is a small rubber ball that get's ejected when the water pressure inside the shower is too high. You will need to get a spare part to replace this. These generally operate because the showerhose is in poor condition and has collapsed internally, or the showerhead has become clogged up so check these things first.