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Assuming your fridge has a defrost cycle ( I.e. is a frost free model), you are probably suffering a blocked drain hole or pipe, leading to the top of the condenser or a tray nearby, where the frost water can evaporate.
The pipe can block with food or a mould plug, leading to water retention that freezes and further blocks the drain. the water is produced when a heater switches on in defrost mode and thaws the internal or external ice build up and, with nowhere for it to go it will pool on the bottom and may, when in defrost mode, run out onto the floor.
With frost free fridges/freezers, there is a drain outlet, usually hidden behind a removable panel inside the fridge/freezer compartment or, a drain hole near the bottom. If there is a drain pipe as well, access is usually from the rear base of the machine. The pipe is usually removable and can be cleaned out but prepare for some water to escape. An ice block in the drainage hole can be thawed using a hair dryer BUT GENTLY, so as not to warp the plastic inners of the fridge.
Do you use dryer sheets? If you do, they leave a residue on the filter screen that will block air flow.
To check if that is the problem - Take the filter screen to a sink and run water over it. If the water runs through like it isn't even there then that is NOT the problem! But if pools even a little take a soft bristled brush and clean it until water passes through freely.
There is always a kill switch on the door, so you have to hold the switch closed and the dryer will start. You can also take off the exhaust tube and see if you have any air movement there.
But first, when was the last time you check your lint trap to make sure that is isn't obstructed? And I am not talking about just cleaning the lint off of it either. Take the lint trap out, clean the lint out and then take it to you sink. If you run it under water, the water should pass right through without pooling. If it pools, then just clean the screen with a soft brisstled brush and water, then test again.
It is the dryer sheets that close up the screen openings and if bad enough can even cause an overload/overheat situation.
You should try to dry the motor out and not run it until it does. You can use a hair dryer, etc. or just wait. You might even be able to find a spray that is made just for absorbing water under these circumstances at a motor rebuilder. Once it dries, it may work fine.
Gary
I assume the pump is not running at night. If the pump is higher than the pool, and the inlet and outlet to the pool are both under water, then you have a small leak. This could be allowing the water to leak out of the line. Or, if the leak is higher than the pool surface it is allowing air to leak into the line, which allows the prime to run down into the pool.
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If your dryer is heating up when first started then your problem is a obstructed dryer vent ether between the dryer and wall or where ever the exterior vent is. On the inside make sure the vent have no kinks in it. Go outside and check the flap in the vent make sure it's clear from obstruction you should feel a very good force of air in that vent when the dryer is running. And final check your lint screen and make sure it has no lint impact on it and run it under water it should not pool up if it does use a tooth brush to clean it. Hope this helps you
I wiped off the two rows of sensors located behind the lint trap inside the drum. Now my dryer shuts off at 0 minutes. The clothes are still a little bit damp so I let the dryer run for 10 more minutes. Try it before replacing the computer board.
pull the dryer and check your venting you can remove the vent and run a load to see if it works ok i know the hot air will come into the room but it is just a test to see if the vent is clogged this is where the condensation would come from chweck that and let me know
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