Poulan 2050 14 inch chainsaw . Problem is ,it wont start. Has been good saw. Seldom used.while idling it quit running.so I went to refuel and noticed, it was not out of fuel.I pulled fuel filter to clean . I dropped fuel line back into tank it ran for 2-3 minutes. that was the last time it ran. I have cleaned exhaust port to carburator , new plug . I have just noticed a scored piston sidewall through exhaust port.. It is scrarched pretty good. It also seems to lockup after 6-7 pulls on pullrope and takes a wrench to break it free. What are my options.?
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With a chain saw owners manual usually recommends running engine for at least 60-120 seconds to warm it up before engine temperature is enough to where engine will idle.
Clean the muffler spark arrestor screen and check the cylinder port for carbon build-up at the upper edge. Try presetting both carburetor H and L adjustments (from lightly CW stops) 1-1/2 turns CCW each. Start the engine and allow to warm up. Pull the throttle wide open and adjust H CW until the engine speed increases, but still 4-stroking. Correct setting is when the engine 4-strokes, but immediately 2-strokes when cutting. Allow to idle and adjust L for smoother running, yet allows the engine to 'follow the throttle'. Set idle speed to keep the engine running, but doesn't try to move the chain. You may have to look closer at your carburetor if the above doesn't help. Go to: http://www.drystacked.com for an excellent article (but poor pix) on Walbro carburetors, but related to most all 2-stroke carburetors. Hope this helps!
It’s possible the ignition module has gone bad do this first. If it’s good and the saw will start it may quit when it gets hot. I don’t think that is true but keep it mind. If it does suddenly just quit running, immediately test the coil before it can cool. Ignition Coil Test SmallEng.com http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7WNBDRG4C4 You may need to use a jumper wire between the threaded part of the plug and the cooling fins. You don’t have to bend up the electrode. You refueled it and it wouldn’t start? Any chance you put straight gas in it?
Was this saw perhaps operated without oil mixed with the fuel? ·Remove the spark plug wire and plug. ·Remove the muffler, hold a light at the plug hole and inspect the cylinder through the exhaust port. Is it smooth and shiny or does it appear speckled with dull gray spots or smears? ·Pull the starter slowly, inspect the piston as it rises and falls. Is it a dull gray without scratches and gouges? ·Hold the light at the exhaust port and inspect the cylinder, above the exhaust port, through the spark plug hole. Is it shiny and smooth or speckled with gray spots or smears?
Any spots or smears on the cylinder or deep scratches and gouges in the piston indicate the saw was operated in a lean condition. Repair of this on a home owner quality saw often exceeds replacement cost. A repair estimate by the independent saw shop should be considered.
It might be a bad fuel vent? Not likely if you just refueled, more likely if it staves after running for a few minutes. Loosen fuel cap when it starts to sputter (rotate saw if necessary) if it picks up again bad vent.
Most likely it was flooded. A flooded saw can be extremely difficult to restart. Did you try to choke a hot saw? That is almost guaranteed to cause it to flood. Start Procedure Cold:
Ignition on/off to on
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws); pull starter and listen for an attempt to start. once heard (usually two pulls, if not heard after 6 pulls stop! Something is wrong)
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Push (open) choke pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull)
Warm:
Ignition on/off to on
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws) - Don’t pull with choke closed.
Push (open) choke, pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull)
Hope this helps Lou If it was flooded it should start easily if it has been sitting for a couple of days. It could still be coil or vent problem.
start saw when cold and work it hard. if it stalls or quits remove spark plug and hook the plug wire to the plug and ground to the cyl head have switch on and pull the start rop briskly a few times or use a test plug. if there is no spark disconnect ign switch from from the ign wires and pull rope a few more times.spark?= replace ign switch,no spark until engine is cool,replace coil.
Does it have good compression? Is the muffler plugged? Is the spark plug wet after trying to start? If not, try a little starting fluid in the plug hole, and try to start. If you get a few pops, try resetting the carburetor H and L jet screws each 1-1/2 turns out from CW stops. It should run with these settings. Warm the engine up, then apply full throttle and adjust H CW until it runs fast, but 4-stroking. It should smooth out when cutting. Next, set idle L for fairly smooth idle, yet follow the throttle without lag. Adjust idle speed just below chain movement. Hope this helps.
I had this issue with mine and all it took to solve it was adjusting the idle screw. Mine you would have to pull it a few thousand times (maybe not quite that many but my arm thought it was) and then you would have to get on the throttle right away to keep it running. I went right through it and nothing seemed to help so I tried adjusting the idle setting. Now it starts easier and it has not stalled on me yet.
SOUNDS LIKE YOU FOLLOWED ALL THE CORRECT PROCEDURES. TRY TO GOOGLE SEARCH YOUR POULAN PRO MODEL #, I'VE HAD ALOT OF LUCK GETTING MANUALS AND DIAGRAMS FROM THERE. GOOD LUCK!!!
thank you
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