Husqvarna lawn tractor stalls when brake is

Lawn Tractor stalls after engaging blades or releasing brake ...

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Scenario 2: Engine started, as above in scenario 1 and manaul brake lever is engaged. Again ... Lawn Tractor stalls after engaging blades or releasing brake .... I am goingto replace that anyway but it almost seems my problem is electrica

Yes you should rotate the transmission input pulley as it is a hydrostatic transmission and only turns the oil pump in the transmission.

somehow did the little freewheel lever get pulled in the rear of the tractor to disengage transmission?..usually out is disengage and in is engaged. look around the back panel behind the rear axle for a small lever you can pull or push in.

Start with a simple thing first, make sure the connection block to the seat micro switch is pushed completley on, if it moves back even a few millimeters you will get this problem, if this does not work check/replace the seat switch, if no better it could be one of the relays situated under the bonnet by the side of the fuel tank, they look like 2" square black boxes, they will just pull of the connector block with 5 or six pins.

rear brake could be stuck on

Check that the blade brake is disengaging. Slip belt off blade spindles and check that they spin freely. Check underside of deck for clogged grass, ropes, wire, etc.

I would go to the manufacturer's website and look around, there is always a "contact us" link and you could send a question. These are actually made by AYP, not husqvarna, so you could find that site and send them an email as well. All those hydrostatic transmissions are made by just 2 or 3 companies, the name is stamped on the transmission somewhere, so again you could find that company and send them an email. On eBay vendors sell those transmissions new, albeit very expensive, and occasionally they are sold cheap as New Old Stock.

There do seem to be many, many questions on here relating to what I perceive as a failed transmission on the husqvarna line. I had a YTH2148 and its Tecumseh transmission failed too, but after many years and many hours. Unbelievably I sold it on eBay for over 300 dollars and folks drove over 500 miles to come and get it just for its motor and deck.

Good Luck

confirm battery is fully charged with a load tester first.

then check your seat and brake pedal interlocks with continuity meter.

Try this - remove all the transmission oil from the transaxle and put in a heavyer oil - 50 wt.
see if your transaxle has a drain plug - if not you will need to remove the tranaxle from the lawn tractor. I had to try a ratchet strap to the rear of the tractor and lift it up until the wheels were free. I removed the brake linkage spring, the fwd/rev linkage, and wheels. Undo the axle bolts and two screws ofn the cross support bracket on the tranaxle mount. pull the vent fill plug on top of the transaxle and turn the transaxle upside down to drain all the oil from it into a pan. Refill with 50 wt. to the top and remount the transaxle back in place. Next you will need to bleed the system as follows:
1. Have the tractor on jack stands with rear wheel off the floor.
2. Start engine on low speed.
3. repeat open and closeing the bypass valve while alternating the forward and reverse pedals.
4. when wheels start to turn increase the engine speed.
5. repeat quick forward or reverse with panic braking stops until transaxle gets full responce.
6. remove jack stands and have tractor on the wheels.
7. recheck the oil level again.

I did this to mine and it will improve your tractor ability to climb hills like new. 30 wt oil is too light (good for brake in) when tractor was new and refilling it with 50 wt will work like new or better.

As for whining sound I believe this normal. The purging instruction using the bypass valve ingaged on low engine running. Next with the bypass disengaged followed by the fwd with fast breaking and or rev with fast breaking actions to get the wheels to turning and getting better responce takes time. This does take some time to do - in my case 15 minutes or more. My tractor had 65 hours on it before it showed signs of not pulling a slight hill. I had to remove the transaxle and put in 50 wt. motor oil and with the purging I was able to bring new life back to this tractor. The original 30wt. motor oil is fine for a brake in oil and I did drain it and took the bottom cover pan off and cleaned the metal particals on the magnets and cleaned the filter. These transaxle are sealed but have a vent plug at the top of the case. That little plug is hard to get off with out damaging it. My tractor whins in forward and reverse but has good hydrostatic power now. So I say the whin is good!