Freezer compressor runs loud and rough

Usually due to a loss of coolant efficiency or a lack of Freon (or replacement coolant) and has to be checked and replaced. The other option is to replace the whole unit.

Things to check are:

Is the thermostat set to the correct temperature (Low, Med, High)?
Are the door seals in good repair and making a good seal with the freezer cabinet frame?
Is the door warped or distorted in any way, will lead to leaks.
Can you hear the compressor/motor running?

No it isnt, it sounds like he overcharged it. Call him back and tell him to try again.

If you punctured the aluminum tubing or the freezer aluminum evaporator , it cannot be repaired . If the puncture is in the copper tubing , only silver solder will fix . On the compressor , you will see a short piece of tubing , capped off . This is where the access fitting was . A good technician will ALWAYS remove the access valve , due to possible refrigerant leak . After removing the end of the tube , silver solder another valve into the tubing . Evacuate the system , recharge with correct amount of refrigerant , crimp the tubing at the access valve and remove the access valve . Re-solder the end of the short tubing , and it's done .

If is the type of freezer where the shelves are also the evaporator(shelves are very cold and is normal to frost), the fact that only one shelf is iced would indicate the system is low on freon due to a leak. This would also explain the hot walls and compressor. It requires a service man to check the freon level and locate leak and recharge.

sounds like a leak ,as long as the compressor fan is running it is a leak. it can be fixed by a technician only due to the tools needed for the repair. these tools cost well over 1000usd and may not be worth purchasing for a single repair.
Phil

If the compressor is running but the unit is not cooling you may have lost the refrigerant.  See if the condenser coils at the back or bottom are hot.  If they are only warm then the refrigerant is low and can be recharged.  Service tech should check for leak in coolant system.

If the unit's Compressor is not starting you need to bypass everything and test the compressor directly to see if it will run. best done buy a qualified Appliance tech unless your from and electrical background? also when the motor/compressor is tested they can see if the freezer starts to freeze down. Because of the cost of changing the Compressor and the fact that a lot of the gas leaks in these units can not be repaired due to the leak being inside the freezer walls a new Freezer is still the best option. Also when a Fridge or freezer is left to sit for 5 years the Compressor is likely to have seized and rust may ave formed inside units copper pipes. Cheers
I'd recommend a new Fisher and Paykel Chest freezer with a extended warranty. cheers

That leaves only one possible fault; the volatile component of your coolant/lubricant has escaped.
If the unit has been moved or cleaned carelessly, one of the coolant- bearing tubes has developed a leak. Any refrigeration tech will have a leak detector in his tool set so it shouldn't be difficult to find.
Depending on the area in which you live, expect the troubleshooting and recharging to run ~$150-$250 US.
If you reside in the US, check your local (area) Better Business Bureau for a trustworthy service company.   

if it’s a banging sound--- I know one of the noises the system 2000 will make is a bang or rattle at the end of the run cycle, which we call "shudder stop". If this is your noise then I have to give you some bad news here. Sorry....... The only way of repairing this is by having your compressor replaced as it has to do with an internal problem in the compressor itself. There may be a silver lining, though, if you are the original purchaser and you have the receipt. Some of these systems came with a 10 year warranty on the compressor, so you might want to check this out.good luck