I have a table top plainer i need to gauge new

is blade tight, are the blade washers in place, willl it cut a pice of wood? if it does not cut wood look at part 321



Delta 36 510 Parts List and Diagram Type 2 eReplacementParts com

NOS Delta Table Saw Jackshaft Assembly 1343258 for 36 510 T2 Bench Saw eBay

Not to insult your intelligence, check the blade direction. Looking at the tablesaw from the left side, the blade should be turning clockwise and the teeth cutting downward. Also the teeth should be very sharp. Typically a belt run tablesaw doesn't use brushes but a capacitor to start rotation. You didn't mention if the blade turns when started. Since you mentioned it sounds good when started I'd rule out the motor. Some saw blades have an arrow to indicate direction. Hope this helps. Good luck.

The most common is wheel misaligment. The top wheel has an adjusting screw or the equivalent somewhere, and you can turn that to align the blade to the center of the wheels.
Second most common is guide problems. There are some guides that are supposed to hold the blade "just right" above and maybe below the table where you are cutting These must be set to support the blade in it's correct position as you are cutting through the material you are cutting.
3rd problem is a saw blade that has lost it's tension from being
" worn out ".
Be blessed.

Craftsman is a Sears brand. Do you have a local Sears store?? They should be able to help you.. If you don't have a Sears or a K-Mart, you can get on the internet and find an outlet for tool repair parts. That's how I find my lawn mower parts...

I'm betting that the table isn't square to the blade. My Cabinet Makers Table Saw does the same thing - the top plate (the big heavy cast iron plate that weighs about 50 pounds) sits on top of the sheet metal box that houses the motor and motor lift. This cast iron plate is held onto the sheet metal box by 3 screws (usually).

Loosen the 3 screws and the cast iron plate can move around on top of the sheet metal box (the holes for the screws are large enough to allow 1/8 inch movement). Looking down from the top, you can rotate the cast iron plate clockwise and it will move the front of the blade closer to the fence and the back of the blade away from the fence. Counter-clockwise does the opposite.

For the best adjustment, use a dial indicator mounted to something that slides in the track of the table top. Position the dial indicator agains the blade and slide it back and forth in the track of the table top. This will accurately set the table top to the blad (so they are parallel within 0.0005 inches).

Then check the accuracy of your fence (sounds like this is good). Don't forget to check the alignment of your riving knife/guard & splitter to the blade (if it's off you can't feed wood because it will hit the splitter).

The table is not perpendicular to the blade travel. Use a small level to make sure the machine is vertical , then set the table. Make sure the blade control guide is working.

I would use a straight edge, to see if the blade is parallel to the table. Bring the blade up, put the straightedge on it and measure to one of the dado cuts in the table, front and back should be the same. If not, You can loosen up the mounting bolts underneath and tap the whole thing around to square it up. Hope this helps.

1) Before setting the Miter gauge, check that the blade is straight (parallel) with the slide grooves. Lock a board in the miter gauge and place against the front of the blade, and then the back of the blade. Is the distance EXACTLY the same (it won't matter if the miter gauge isn't straight and square). If not, you'll need to loosen the table and rotate the blade holder to square it up.
2) Now Cut a board in half the flip one side over and place the cut back together. If it isn't straight, the resulting board will have a "dog-leg".
3) Adjust the miter-set-screw until the cuts on the trial board yield a board that comes out straight (or use a Framing square to check).

I have the same saw and love it. There are mounting bolt under the table between the blade and the motor. There not ment to be used for adjusting but there is some play. The way to get the best cut is to adjust the fence to the blade. I have a Bessimer fence that adjusts easily with two allan machine screws the push plastic pads against the arms rail. I get cuts that look like DA with 220 was used. Enjoy the saw and good luck.

I'm not sure why the instructions said to change the blade in order to cut the slot. I've made several of the zero clearance inserts (for different blades) and always made the slot with the blade I intend to use it with. Of course, you need to match the inserts to the blades (I just tie wrap them together.