Amp meter shows discharge andmotor won't turn over

try locking your car with the key and unlocking it with the key, leave it for 30 second or so between the locking and unlocking , the car thinks some one has tampered with it

it may have deffective diode on the charging system(the alternator). 14 volts is an over charge in a battery. ampere reading must be on what the battery designed.

You need a better battery. When you hook the amp meter and read 0.3 the ECM needs to sleep

You have a generic code reader
everyone needs one

You can not how ever get MFG Codes
only those starting with PO

You should have instructions with it
You usually only have 2 buttons

One button cycles thru data & the
other clears or resets the MIL Lamps

Turn key on & write down any codes,
as you push the left button ,I believe
to cycle thru them

Then start engine & see if they are still there
& the same

Then use the other button to clear them
& road test,to see what comes back

The manual won't help much

Give me the codes or look on the
internet. Just put OBD2 & the code #
in search engine.

probably one or both or your batteries are low or shot, check both of them. Hope this helps-Jim If water in them is low, refill with distilled water, and then charge them. If it still doesn't start, you may need a replacement.

Try this tips:
1. Check the battery voltage at the battery with the digital volt/ohm meter. Set the meter to "Volts D/C" and touch the black meter lead to the negative battery post and the red meter lead to the positive post. A fully charged battery will measure 12.7 volts or more. A measurement of 12.5 volts is considered discharged, and the battery should be charged before any further testing. Any measurement below 11 volts indicates a severely discharged battery--the battery is most likely damaged and should be replaced. If the battery measures above 12.7 volts, proceed to the next step.

2. Check the starter for battery voltage by touching the red (positive) meter lead to the battery cable terminal on the back of the starter and the black (negative) lead to the chassis. The voltage reading should be approximately the same as the measurement at the battery. If the reading is lower than battery voltage, check for bad connections at the cables on the battery and the starter or ground cable.

Check for ignition switch signal at the purple wire on the back of the starter. When the key is turned to the "Start" position this wire should measure battery voltage. If the reading is less than battery voltage, or zero volts, check the fusible links (orange wires) on the back of the starter. If the fusible links are intact and not burned or broken, replace the ignition switch. If battery voltage is present at the purple wire, and the starter doesn't turn, replace the starter. If the voltage measurements at the starter are correct, and the starter cranks the engine over when the key is turned to the start position, proceed to the next step.

3. Remove the air duct attached to the throttle body, and spray a liberal amount of the carburetor spray into the throttle body. Replace the hose, and try to start the engine. If the engine starts, the fuel pump is not supplying fuel or the ignition module is not pulsing the injectors. Check the fuel pump fuse located in the under-hood fuse block. If it is good, check for power at the fuel pump electrical connector located near the rear of the fuel tank on the driver's side of the van. In the Chevy Astro van, power is supplied to the fuel pump by the the gray wire on the electrical connector when the engine is being cranked. If power is supplied, hitting the fuel tank with the flat side of a hammer while someone else is turning the ignition key to start will sometimes bump the fuel pump enough to allow it to start. If the fuel pump checks good, proceed to the next step.

4. Check for spark. Disconnect the coil wire at the ignition coil, and try to start the engine. If no spark occurs, replace the coil and ignition module. If a strong spark occurs, plug the wire back in, and remove a spark plug wire from a spark plug and repeat the test. If a spark is not present, replace the spark plug wires, and distributor cap and rotor.


Keep us updated.

your battery isnt what was bad to begin with, if it is discharging either change, or have your alternator rebuilt.. thats your problem 100% sure

think you need a new battery ,put volt meter away and use a proper drop charger to test the reserve amp power in the battery .forget the volts because if their isnt 200amps available to turn engine it wont go

Dont know about security mode on the car, check your manual.
Check your battery by turning on your headlights and see if they work, if they do and work good then the battery is charged. If thats the case then it could be a security mode thing, if not a security mode thing then it could be a bad connection to the starter or a bad starter or starter relay.
Try the headlights first and see if you have juice.
If you donts check to see if you left a interior light on or your headlights, if so, recharge your battery and you should be good to go.
Good luck

If the starter motor will not crank the engine over first check the battery to see if it is fully charged. A volt meter across the battery should read at least 12.6V. If you do not have a volt meter, turn the ignition key on and check the rate of the turn signal operation and check that the headlight high beams are bright as normal. If the rate of turn signal flashing and headlights are normal, chances are the battery is charged and the problem is else where.

If TS and HD Lights are not normal, fully charge the battery. Then with the head lights on try to start the car. If the head lights dimm or go out, you have a bad connection in the wiring going to the starter motor or a bad battery. Clean the battery terminals and try again. If NG, have the battery load tested.

If after charging the battery and the car starts normally, the question becomes, does the battery run down because of a draw in the system or because the alternator does not charge the battery while driving. You can take to car, it is now running right? To any number of auto parts stores and they will check the battery and charging system for you in the hopes of selling parts.

If the battery and alternator check out, the battery is most likely being depleted over time by some accessory in the car pulling power when it should not be. This can be quickly checked by putting an amp meter in series with one of the batter terminals. It will show the rate of draw in AMPS that is the problem. Finding that problem is a process of elimination ( say by pulling fuses) until the problem goes away then examining the circuit that the problem occurred in. Most times it is the interior lights.

Good Luck!