Installing load panel & inlet box

If you have (90) 50w lamps = 4500 watts total. Assuming a 120/240 panel, if you put 1/2 on one "side" of the panel and the other 1/2 on the other "side" of the panel, that would be 2250 watts on each half. The generator should be rated *at least* 125% of the load; 4500w x 1.25 = 5625W. Using a 4500W generator on this load will cause it to overheat and shorten its life as it is running at 100% of capacity all the time..

One half of the panel is 120V to neutral, and the other is 120V to neutral - or 240V between both circuit breaker terminals. Ohms law for DC circuits and purely resistive AC circuits says Volts x Amps = Watts; or Watts / Volts = Amps. So, 2250W / 120V = 18.75A on each pole of a 2 pole circuit breaker that feeds the sub panel. A #12 copper wire is rated for 20 amps; but as per National Electrical Code - must be de-rated to 80% of rating which means it is good up to 16 amps maximum. A #10 copper wire is rated for 30 amps, but it too must be derated to 80%, making it good for 24 amps maximum. So, if you are going to feed a sub panel supplying (90) 50watt lamps, you will need to run a #10/3 copper cable from a two pole 30 amp circuit breaker at the generator to a 120/240 volt "main lug only" sub panel rated for at least 30 amps.

Divide your load evenly across the sub panel - (4) 15 amps circuits via (2) two pole 15 amp circuit breakers on each "side" of the panel if you run (2) 14/3 cables out to the lights - or (4) single pole 15 amp circuit breakers if you run (4) 14/2 cables out to the lights. No circuit breaker terminal should have more than 23 lamps that means you have (2) w/ 22 lamps and (2) with 23 lamps. The circuit w/ 23 lamps will draw 23 lamps x 50w = 1150W. 1150W / 120V = 9.6A. The 22 lamp load will be 22 x 50w = 1100W. 110W / 120V = 9.2A. Which is well within the 12A maximum allowed (after derating as required by code) by a #14 copper wire rated for 15A.

Good luck!

I am pretty sure you would have to order that breaker to get it. if its 200 amp panel it will hold 200 amps. why do you think u would have to derate it for the solar panels. they do not create any electric load as I would think they would actually feed power into the panel and feed it back to the power grid. that would in itself lighten the load on the 200 amp main. I am going to sign up for the mobile app thing. as soon as I read up on it and will be able to discuss this more as u wish and offer assistance if need be.


have a great day and good luck

1) Match wire and breaker:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html

2) 7000 watts divided by 240 volts = 29.1 amps.
30 amp breaker x 80% safe maximum = 24 amps.
This means you should use 8 gauge wire and 40 amp double pole breaker for 240volt

3) 7000 watts divided by 120 volt = 58.3 amps.
60 amp breaker x 80% safe maximum = 48 amps.
So use 70 amp breaker and #4 wire.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Do you have a Square D "QO" panel - or a Square D "Homeline" panel (or a different brand panel completely)? If possible, please provide the catalog number of the circuit breaker.

Nearly all circuit breakers that are TRIPPED (handle is at the midpoint between ON and OFF) must be RESET by pushing the handle to the OFF position - then pushed the other way to the ON position. A circuit breaker that is in the OFF position, does not need to be RESET, and need only be pushed to the ON position.

It is advisable to shut off ALL the other circuit breakers in the panel, then turn on the 200 amp breaker. After the 200 amp breaker is on, turn on the largest value (in amps) double pole breakers and finally all the single pole breakers largest values down to 15 amps. This prevents switching one very large load all at once.

A circuit breaker can go bad, but usually not in the way that you describe. That's not to say that it can't happen, but just not typical. GTE Sylvania breakers were once popular - I installed quite a few GTE / Sylvania electrical panels in homes in the late 80's. You may have trouble finding replacements; do not put an breaker that "fits" into the panel, unless the breaker is designed for use in the panel you have.

The first thing to do is determine the source of the problem. The breaker will trip, but not indicate if it was the result of a heavy electrical load or a ground fault condition. A 15 amp circuit breaker is designed to carry up to 12 amps continuously. The greater the load, the more quickly it will trip. it may carry a 14.5 amp load for several minutes to an hour before tripping, and a 20 amp load may be carried a second or two. GFI breakers are designed to carry 5 thousandths (.005) of an amp (or 5 milliamps) to ground, or the 12+ amps to neutral before they trip.

The way I would attack the problem is to install a new GFI outlet in front of the old wiring, by "inserting it" between the panel and the other plugs and lights, switches, etc on that circuit. The GFI outlet will provide the same GFI protection that the circuit breaker provided at a fraction of the cost.

Turn off the old GFI breaker, and remove it completely. Install a new, standard (non-GFI) single pole 15 amp circuit breaker in its place. Completely remove from the panel the cable that the old GFI breaker fed. Buy a new electrical outlet box (surface or flush mount as desired) that is large enough and deep enough for a GFI plug and 2 cables (if surface mount, use a 4" square deep box and appropriate cover - or if flush mounting use a deep plastic / fiber single gang box). It will be installed in a place close to the panel, but where the old cable will be able to reach inside. Bring the old cable removed from the panel into the new box. Run a new cable that has the same number and size wires from the panel into the new box, too. Connect the circuit neutral and circuit ground to the neutral and ground bars in the panel (they are probably the same bar) and the hot wire to the circuit breaker. make sure that the circuit breaker is OFF. Twist the two ground wires together and combine an 8 inch length of bare or green insulated wire with them in a wirenut.

Next, wire a new GFI plug in the new box. Connect the green wire from the wirenut to the green terminal of the GFI outlet.

Connect the plug's LINE terminals to the neutral and hot wires in the cable that you ran from the panel to the outlet box.

Now, connect the GFI plug's LOAD terminals to the neutral and hot wires in the cable that you removed from the panel and reinstalled into the new outlet box.

Secure the GFI outlet into the box and install the cover. Cover the electrical panel.

Power up and test. if the GFI trips, there's a ground fault in the circuit. If the circuit breaker trips, the circuit is overloaded.

Is this breaker connected to water heater?

1) A double 20 amp breaker is called a 240Volt breaker.
20 amp breaker is actually rated for 16 amps for safety margin.
It is also important that this breaker have 12 gauge wire which is color-coded yellow.
Look at label on side of water heater for wattage of unit.

2) For example 4500 Watt water heater is typical.
4500 watts divided by 240Volts = 18.75 amps which is nearly full capacity for the 20 amp breaker, and is slightly above the safety margin.
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html

3) If breaker is getting old, and it works at full load each time water heater is on, it can wear out.
Open circuit breaker box and replace breaker:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-circuit-breaker.html

4) You can also move circuit breaker wire to another same-size breaker and see if problem continues.

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1) Manufacturer's warranty will be voided, and I've never seen recommendation that suggests better heating or saving money from replacing 4500W with different wattage element.

2) That being said, you have 240V water heater.
4500Watts divided by 240 = 18.75 amps
5500Watts divided by 240 = 23 amps

20 amp circuit breaker with 12 gauge wire is rated for 80% of load = 16amps
30 amp circuit breaker with 10 gauge wire is rated for 80% of load = 24amps.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Figure-Volts-Amps-Watts-for-water-heater.html

3) You can use 5500Watt element if you have 30 amp breaker and 10 gauge wire.

It sounds like you have a main lug only panel. They are for sub panels where a main breaker isn't needed. I would return it and get the right one.

You will solve the problem of the breaker tripping but you'll create a fire hazard as the wiring may overheat because of what you are drawing through the line. If you need a higher amp circuit breaker for the load you are creating on the line, you need to make sure the wiring can also handle the extra load. You'd be way better off by spreading the load over several different circuits or installing another line to reduce the load on the line that's tripping the breaker.

Square do only permits installing this main breaker in the #2&4 Position (right hand side)
PK4MB2LA http://static.schneider-electric.us/docs/Electrical%20Distribution/Load%20Centers/Accessories-QO-LK-PK-QO-QON/Circuit%20Breaker%20Retaining%20Kits/40272-804-02.pdf
Perhaps you could add a main breaker
http://static.schneider-electric.us/docs/Circuit%20Protection/Molded%20Case%20Circuit%20Breakers/Thermal%20Magnetic%20Molded%20Case%20Circuit%20Breakers/QOM1-QOM2/0736CT9701R1201.pdf