H'varna 2548 steer: gear slips from quadrant Play- shaft bushing <1/32. Quadrant up/down)+_ 1/8.. Quadrant slipped-no turn left. What to replace? Up/down adjust to shaft-end gear? Harvey Goolsby

There are a couple of things which can cause this, one being the right and left steering gear may be worn and slipped the teeth. That is the most likely cause. The other could be the cause which would allow the teeth to slip. That would be the steering gear bushing. Hope this will help.

Hi Ernie:
This can sometimes happen when you're turning and bump into something,
Look under the shaft that comes down from the steering wheel.
There will be a geared quadrant (or possibly a different linkage) that is out of alignment. The fix is to loosen up the bits so that you can get them lined up properly, then tighten the retaining parts.

Hi Victor:

If you follow the steering from the wheel down the shaft you will probably find a geared "quadrant". Odds are thar one of the teeth has "jumped" a notch or two out of alignment.
The fix will be to loosen the mechanism so that you can re-align to the correct positiion, then tighten it back up.

You have the steering shaft the pinion gear on the end of the shaft and the stationary gear at the bottom on the frame. Either the gears are worn out or the steering shaft has too much play in it causing the gears to slip.

Had the same problem with my GT1554. There's a hex shaped bushing with a round center that the steering column passes through, found immediately above the gear on the steering shaft, on the top side of the sheet metal. It had worn to an oblong opening and allowed the gear teeth to slip past each other. Replace that bushing. Even if there's a little wear on the teeth, they'll mesh OK after the bushing is replaced.

clutch is supposed to be self adjusting. Here are instructions for replacing the adjuster:

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION


See Figure 1

1. Disconnect the battery cable from the negative terminal of the battery.
2. Remove the steering wheel using a steering wheel puller, Tool T67L-3600-A or equivalent.
3. Remove the lower dash panel section to the left of the steering column.
4. Remove the shrouds from the steering column.
5. Disconnect the brake lamp switch and the master cylinder pushrod from the brake pedal.
6. Rotate the clutch quadrant forward and unhook the clutch cable from the quadrant. Allow the quadrant to slowly swing rearward.
7. Remove the bolt holding the brake pedal support bracket lateral brace to the left side of the vehicle.
8. Disconnect all electrical connectors from the steering column.
9. Remove the 4 nuts that hold the steering column to the brake pedal support bracket and lower the steering column to the floor.
10. Remove the 4 booster nuts that hold the brake pedal support bracket to the dash panel.
11. Remove the bolt that holds the brake pedal support bracket to the underside of the instrument panel, and remove the brake pedal support bracket assembly from the vehicle.
12. Remove the clutch pedal shaft nut and the clutch pedal, as outlined above.
13. Slide the self-adjusting mechanism out of the brake pedal support bracket.
14. Examine the self-adjusting mechanism shaft bushings on either side of the brake pedal support bracket, and replace if worn.

To install:

1. Lubricate the self-adjusting mechanism shaft with motor oil and install the mechanism into the brake pedal support bracket.
2. Position the quadrant towards the top of the vehicle. Align the flats on the shaft with the flats in the clutch pedal assembly, and install the retaining nuts. Tighten to 32-50 ft. lbs. (43-67 Nm).
3. Position the brake pedal support bracket assembly beneath the instrument panel, aligning the four holes with the studs in the dash panel. Install the four nuts loosely.
4. Install the bolt through the support bracket and into the instrument panel. Tighten to 13-25 ft. lbs. (18-34 Nm).
5. Tighten the four booster nuts that hold the brake pedal support bracket to the dash panel to 13-25 ft. lbs. (18-34 Nm).
6. Connect the brake lamp switch and the master cylinder pushrod to the brake pedal.
7. Attach the clutch cable to the quadrant.
8. Position the steering column onto the four studs in the support bracket and start the four nuts.
9. Connect the steering column electrical connectors.
10. Install the steering column shrouds.
11. Install the brake pedal support lateral brace.
12. Tighten the steering column attaching nuts to 20-37 ft. lbs. (27-50 Nm).
13. Install the lower dash panel section.
14. Install the steering wheel.
15. Connect the battery cable to the negative terminal on the battery.
16. Check the steering column for proper operation.
17. Depress the clutch pedal several times to adjust the cable.

if its hydraulic then adjuster is under the car if a cable it may be auto adjust on the pedal ,but some fords done away with this and their is a allen key headed bold on the pedal shaft about half way up the pedal

kickstart quadrant possibly worn or kickstart on wrong teeth(outside)

1. THE STEERING GEAR SHAFT ADJUSTMENT TOO LOOSE OR SHAFT AND OR BUSHING BADLY WORN 2 .EXCESSIVE GEAR WORM END PLAY DUE TO BEARING ADJUSTMENT 3.STEERING LINKAGE LOOSE OR WORN. 4.FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS IMPROPERLY ADJUSTED. 5 STEERING ARM LOOSE ON STEERING GEAR SHAFT. 6. STEERING GEAR HOUSING ATTACHING BOLTS LOOSE. 7.STEERING ARMS LOOSE AT STEERING KNUCKLES. 8.WORKING PINS OR BUSHINGS. 9.LOOSE SPRING SHACKLES.THIS IS 9 POSSIBLE CAUSES THAT WILL CAUSE STEERING TO BE TOO LOOSE.

This shaft is removable, and the assembly, if not worn extremely bad, can be rebuilt. The assembly is called a quadrant. You can go to the local FORD dealer, and tell them to pull up a picture of the quadrant assembly, and you can pick out the parts you need to make the repair. If the shaft has worn out the quadrant bracket, then you will have to replace the assembly.