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Question edited for clarity and MAKER!
Question moved from Cars and Trucks to model category.
Stated fuel consumption figures by the maker are seldom correct. You are driving in traffic and even changing gears! Figures are often given driving on the highway in top gear at 50 mph for 50 miles. When they say mixed driving, that is 5 miles to get to the highway and 45 miles on the highway. As long as the bike is running right, your tyres are at the right pressure, your brakes aren't binding and your spark plugs are a nice honey colour and not Black, fuel consumption is what it is. If you are 300 pounds, that will reduce consumption really badly.
Yes you should be able to disable the ABS but I cannot emphasize this enough.....DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR UNTIL FIXED.
ABS and the normal braking system is the same set of brakes. It is not 2 separate systems. You can disable ABS and that varies between manufacturers as to how to do that. It could be the simple press of a button marked ABS or entering a menu and disabling or it may require sophisticated dealer only equipment.
Your ABS is obviously faulty (or at least one of the sensors is faulty) as it should only operate when it detects a wheel locking up under braking and you should then feel the pulsing through your brake pedal as it disengages and re-engages rapidly to prevent locking up the wheel.
Find out how to disable the ABS and see if that stops the shaking. Do it somewhere safe, not the highway and do it at a slow speed. Best course is to get it looked at by a professional
there are several problem that will give this indication and your information is not comprehensive enough to make a good diagnosis
the time factor is critical as some time could be 5 minutes to 5 hours and driving is too loose as it could be at highway speeds or stop go traffic , hill work or under load
so I will give to certain conditions that will over heat the car or cause a rise in operating temperature
head gasket--check with compression test
low water level-- check at cap
faulty radiator cap--have tested
partially blocked radiator--have a flow test done
fins on cores falling off --replace radiator
overheating transmission oil--check the transmission is fully operational as high speed with out over drive in will cause a rise in temp
if in traffic --check viscous fan and fan operation if electric
if under load -check load and tyre pressures
check for brake operation- adjust hand brake to full off
run the fault codes to check air/fuel ratios and timing
check for failed cat converter-- blocked exhaust system
Sounds like your brakes are sticking. Possibly the emergency brake is not disengaging entirely? Stop the car and put in park. Apply emergency brake as hard/far as possible. Then release and put in drive and try to go. Most emergency brakes are self adjusting. If the problem still persists, have it taken to your mechanic.
If you step on the brake pedal and hold it down and you feel the pedal going slowly down, that's for sure your Master Cylinder unless you have a brake fluid leak from one of the calipers. If you have a brake fluid leak, you will notice it because you will have to keep on adding fluid to the system. If you notice a change in your RPM when you brake then you may have an air leak from your vacuum to manifold hose.
Certainly possible, but very unusual. Normal life is around 60,000 miles but of course driving highway and no city traffic would extend the life. How many clutches so far ?
it all depends on your driving conditions if you have a lot of stop and go traffic everyday you will wear them out alot faster than highway travel. generally a good set of brakes especially original brakes should last about 50,000 miles if not driven to hard or under extreme conditions, most rotors can be machined atleast once before having to be replaced with new ones unless your vehicle runs composite rotors they will have to be replaced everytime you have new pads installed.
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