No spark out of coil, it has power going to it ,coil checks ok on a 1981 dodge 2.2l aries

SOURCE: mazda rustler 160i

Hi Gerrie1974-

WildBill49 here......Not knowing the specific year and version of your Mazda, I cannot give you a specific part at fault, but I can help you. I am assuming we're talking about an electronic distributor single coil ignition system

If the spark is weak directly out of the coil (with a known good coil hooked up with correect polarity), then the problem is in the spark trigger module... There is a variety of designs, but the basic components remain the same. This is the part of the ignition system that replaces the breaker points. It consists of two parts - a magnetic spark trigger sensor, and a spark signal amplifier/controller. these are sometimes combined into one ignition module.

Replace this module, and spark from the coil should be strong! If it is still weak, reverse the two wires to the coil.

Weak spark at the plug wire with the above good indicates distributor cap/rotor replacement time...

Gerrie, I hope this is what you are looking for, best of luck, and if you feel my advice worthy, please rate it!!!

Thanx-
-WB

SOURCE: 1994 1.8 CC lancer has no spark

So you're getting voltage to positive side of coils, but no spark at plugs? If you were to take the coil plug wire and hold it about 1/4 inch from engine ground do you get spark? (Use well insulated handles, don't touch metal) If yes, maybe plug wires, if no, does it have a control module? I'm not familiar with Mitsubishi, I've worked mostly on American cars.

SOURCE: 1981 Fiat 124 Spider. No spark coming from coil.

Assuming that you have a fully charged battery then you should check/replace the ignition points and condenser. This should ideally have been checked before investing in a new coil.

If in any doubt then just replace them as it's cheap and easy. Note that most Fiat 124 Spiders are a little more complicated than normal cars as they're often fitted with two sets of points instead of the usual single set. One set is used purely for starting and the engine switches over to the other set once it's running at full oil pressure.

Assuming you have a 1600cc dual point 124 Spider then look at the following web address to see how to replace and adjust your points:-
http://www.mirafiori.com/~thad/points.html

Note that although the points can be set roughly using a feeler gauge it's vital to adjust them correctly using a dwell meter.

The next web address gives you the specs for the US specification Fiat 124 Spider which usually had a single points distributor (points specs on page 21):-
http://homepage.mac.com/tmckaskle/fiat/images/specs/index.html#page1

When doing this job also check and replace both the distributor cap and rotor arm if they show signs of damage, burning or excessive wear.

This is not a difficult job, but it is fiddly. I usually found it easiest to remove the distributor from the engine to work on it but that does mean that you need to mark the position of the rotor arm as the distributor is withdrawn to ensure that you don't completely lose the ignition timing when you've finished. You'll need to recheck and adjust the timing afterwards whether the distributor is removed or not anyway.

Finally, for lots of detailed help and assistance, I strongly suggest that you register on the Fiat Forum at the address below:-

http://www.fiatforum.com/

SOURCE: 2001 Nissan Frontier 4x4 crewcab supercharged.

I would personnaly test the cam and crank sensors. If you are not getting spark, then your crank sensor is bad.

SOURCE: how to test a crankshaft on a 1993 Dodge Dakota

check your catalytic converter for clogged up.
disconnect the exhaust pipe before the cat and run the engine to see if it still cut off.
if it run better, then that's the problem