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Dale Posted on Apr 22, 2014
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Pilot not working on Comfortmaker

GOOD POWER TO THE GAS VALVE, BUT ONLY 1 OF 3 OF THE OUTPUT WIRES TO THE PILOT HAS POWER AND IT READS 18vac

  • Dale
    Dale Apr 22, 2014

    The gas control valve is a Honeywell SV9501

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1 Answer

Frank Wycoff

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  • Expert 180 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 26, 2014
Frank Wycoff
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Joined: Apr 13, 2014
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If pilot wont stay light, possibly thermocouple may need replacement. Probably a service tech should come out, I do believe there should be 24 volts, not 18, but unit may be different.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/frankie_091f536560a54e12

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Nov 07, 2008

SOURCE: Pilot will not light

The Pilot indicator will appear to line up with the arrow on the base, and even push in as though allowing gas to flow, but if it is just 1mm out of alignment, no gas will flow. So the solution is to move the valve in the Pilot mode slightly in one direction or the other to see if/when gas flows.

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Paul Carew

  • 3808 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 24, 2009

SOURCE: cozy gravity one sided wall heater...pilot won't

how by extending the duct work will it make the gas valve work ?

if the pilotkeeps going out clean pilot jet , or if the power unit has gone in the gas valve then you would have to change the valve , don't get the flue bit ?

Anonymous

  • 462 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 02, 2009

SOURCE: Carrier Furnace 58gs075-1 Circuit board issues...

I cant see your wire diagram but trace the circut your talking about. I believe it usually goes through a series of safety switches. Put your VOM across each individual switch. If you get 24 out from the board the first 1 you check and get 24v is open and not feeding back to the board is out. FIND out why. the switch could be bad but it may be indicating a more involved problem, just look aroeund for chared wires or tell tell signes of flame roll out or if its an open (fuse link) suspect what can cause an over heat condition anythign from a bad board or too long an off cycle before the indoor fan comes on ect. PONIT IS Once you come across the cause may not be the reason.
Please grade me accordingly and if you need more I need more info from you. 

co7196

Ned C Cook

  • 3433 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 01, 2009

SOURCE: pilot light not working in gas heater

That probe that sits in the pilot flame is at fault. Remove and replace. Inexpensive fix. Make sure probe is in the tip of the pilot flame. If it does not stay hot enough, it will shut off the gas.

Anonymous

  • 108 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 01, 2009

SOURCE: big old Hydro Therm boiler rolls out flame at

This may be normal it's hard to tell from your description , The flame could possibly rollout for a second or 2...depending on the venting , how far the vent is from the chimney etc....you shouldn't hear a "Mini Explosion" you may hear the gas ignite with a bit of a woooosh...depending on the size of the boiler this could be quite normal...Boilers can be dangerous when they get plugged up or dirty....although Hydrotherm makes an EXCELLENT Cast Iron Boiler...I would still have it checked by an expert to be on the safe side....you should also have a "Slow Opening" valve which would eliminate that problem if the valve is working correctly , but it's possible it was replaced at some point with a regular opening valve and this could be the reason as well

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I have a 1999 comfortmaker heat pump i need to know if the revercing valve is normal in heat or cool

not sure if this helps but is how it works...
Comfort Maker energizes the reversing valve in cool. The reversing valve coil should be wired to "O" from the thermostat. Take the wires off the the reversing valve coil, it should switch to heat. If it does not, and the compressor is running, the reversing valve is bad! Replace it.

Note: that clicking sound you hear was the pilot valve in the reversing valve. Within a couple of seconds of hearing that click, it should have reversed. IF it does not, you have a bad valve.

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Is gas on?
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This symptom indicates something wrong with the millivolt system. Start by checking the wires from the thermopile to the gas valve, insuring they are all tight and in place. Check the hi limit thermostat, if you have an ohm meter it should read .1 or .2 across it. With you meter set to dc millivolts, and flame present on the pilot, read across the thermocouple wires (red and white) to see the millivolts generated, with the thermostat off and the gas valve in pilot position you should get approx 600 millivolt plus minus 50. The pilot will have to be on for a minute or so to get maximum millivolts. If the millivolts are correct, hi-limit closed, and all wiring is connected, you likely have a faulty gas valve. If the hi limit reads more than .1 or .2 replace the limit, if you are not getting the millivolts from the thermopile, replace it.
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If you have a milivolt meter you can check the TC by pulling the wires that come from it at the gas valve and with the button on the gas valve pushed in and a good flame you should get 500-700 MV from the TC. This is 1/2 a volt+ so you will need a MV meter. But this will tell if your TC is bad or if your valve is bad.
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Tie red and white wires together after removing thermostat from wall, if unit comes on replace thermostat, if not check limit controls for continuity, Good luck.
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