Wheels won't engage the reel of the mower.

Sounds like a seized bearing. Shoot oil into it or remove wheel and you can tell that way. I would oil the shaft and wheel well before taking apart.

yes it could sounds like the cable is out of adjustment remove cover to see if belt still mounted and how to engage selfpropepelld adjust cable accordanlly

Unless you want to replace these gears You can make this mower into a push mower by taking the wheels off and disconnecting the gear drives. One time I took wheels off the front and put on the rear and rear off the back and put on front. In order for this to work all four wheels have to be the same size.

hello, hello, Drive belt replacement for front drive mowers. remove the belt coved on top of deckand clean out grass,turn mower on side where carb is facing up,use a pair of vice grips on side of mower deck so the blade can stop,remove the blade,remove the belt cover and clean out the grass,remove belt from rear and front pulley pulleys. install new belt,put belt cover and blade back on,put front belt cover on, should work,if that is not the problem; wheels will not prepeal the mower,wheels turn only when raised off ground, Check the gears or groves on the inside of the wheel for access wear that is a common problem,check the axle drive gears to make sure turns ok, to check gear box if ok pull mower back wards while drive is engaged,if wheels turn backwards than the trams is bad,all of this is caused by the operator,by not disengaging drive while pulling mower backwards or by holding mower back not allowing to propel self completely,hope this helps,any comments welcome,thank you.

1) Traction drive belt slipping or worn
a) idler pulley not fully engaging
b) cable/lever adjustment
c) spring missing or broken

2) Friction drive disc slipping or worn
a) rust on hexagon shaft not allowing friction disc to move
b) missing or broken engagement spring

3) clevis pins missing or broken on wheels

4) roll pin on drive shaft missing or broken
inside the cover for the gearing mechanisms, chain drives, gears ect.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/rolandw_c013176d62ee17ae

remove the rear wheels and check the gears in the wheels- they are plastic and part of the circumfrance on the inside of the wheel. If worn replace wheels.
also check belt- it should be tight with very little play when drive is engaged ( obvioulsy check this with engine off).

I believe you mean to say a 'reel' mower. Normally and old fashoined push (non-engine powered) mower.

Most consumer reel mowers do not need to be sharpened. They do however have a knife bed that occasionally needs to be adjusted. It should have the thickness of a regular piece of notebook paper between the blades and the knife bed. (that is really VERY close) You can buy 'lapping compound' from an automotive parts store, and apply that to the bed knife, and then rotate the blades to provide a precise fit for all blades.

Commercial reel mowers, such as those used on golf course equipment are however sharpened normally once or twice a year. It requireds dismantling, and many courses send their blades to a central location for golf equipment, where they are placed on a computer operated sharpener for precision grinding. This cost several hundreds of dollars just for the grinding.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/rolandw_c013176d62ee17ae

Remove the wheels and check the gears inside.
It sounds like they are worn or sheared and need
renewing

on yours you must replace the entire tranny unit - to make it roll you can remove the front wheels and remove the small gear on both sides - doing this of course will turn it into a push mower not self propel