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Blade cable The cable that runs from the the lawnmower deck up the handle on the left hand side attaches with a small rachet type piece of plactic it snapped off and know the cable wont engage the blade and I cant find any replacement parts can I some how bypass this cable and have it run

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  • 28 Answers

The brake cable is a common part. Not sure which model you have, but you may want to check this one out, it's part #105-1844

Posted on Mar 30, 2014


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 376 Answers

SOURCE: What is the difference in a regular blade and a mulching blade?

A regular blade has a straight cutting edge, a mulching blade is bent to have a high and low cutting edge. Even if you have a mulching blade on, if the grass is too high or wet or you're cutting too low, it won't do a good job and may require a second pass.Raising your cutting height can help. Hope this helps. Dwain

Posted on May 17, 2009

  • 59 Answers

SOURCE: Blades engage,but stop after running for a bit.

check the wire at the clutch on the crank shaft end try spraying the clutch with P B spry

Posted on Jun 26, 2009

  • 718 Answers

SOURCE: Blade won't stay engauged

It is very hard to say without knowing model, but if it is a Honda Harmony than I would look towards the the cable that controls the blade engagement. If your model is equipped with a blade engagement lever most likely yours is controlled by a cable also and it only needs to be adjusted correctly. Good luck!

Posted on Oct 22, 2009

  • 257 Answers

SOURCE: MTD Yardman 12A-449T402, 6hp, self-propelled.

Hello Spattee,

I understand that you are having a problem with you Yardman Lawn mower when you try to use the blade control handle it is not allowing your lawn mower to start. I have had this issue in the past and it required the cable to be replace as it was streching as you use the handle. The cables are not expensive and can be pruchased at most local lawn mower shops.

Thank you for choosing


Posted on May 06, 2011

  • 599 Answers

SOURCE: swisher 44" mower starts and runs but engine bogs

The engine in this machine seems to be powerful. If you can remove the belt from the pulley that drives the blade. Try turning the pulley buy hand. If it turns tight or not at all this is your problem. The unit that is the pulley to blade assembly is seized or ready to seize. Sometimes they are designed to be taken apart and repaired, and sometimes they are not. Did you check for a grease fitting within the pulley to blade unit?
I would like to hear how this works out for you. Best of luck.

Posted on Jun 14, 2011

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1 Answer

My riding lawnmower not cutting even, craftsman 46"

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Replacing Riding Lawnmower Blade Belts.

I discovered on a Craftman Riding 3 bladed mower that there is an easy way to replace the belt for the blade pulleys.

The mandrel cover of the Left side blade is the only part you need to remove to replace the belt. You can insert the belt under the right side mandrel cover and onto the clutch pulley before finishing on the left side of the mower.

The tensioner or idler pulleys will contract when you pull on the belt. When you get to the left blade pulley you can turn the pulley with one hand and guide the belt with the other hand. The belt will walk right up onto the pulley. Attach the cover and you're done.

I like my method because you can stay away from a hot engine and replace the belt without waiting for the motor to cool off. You are also not fighting the mower clutch or drivebelt with my method.

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I have a Poulan 600 series lawn mower n when I got to pull start my lawn mower it's locked up n won't let u get the full pull start to fire it up.

Probably the cable from your safety shutdown is broken. One way to tell is follow the shutdown cable from the top of the handle bar down to the motor which should be attached to a lever on the left hand side of the engine. When you pull the thin handle on top of the handle bar towards you the lever on the side of the engine should move back also.

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I need to see a belt routing diagram for a Scotts Mower

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Please vote !!

May 12, 2010 | Garden

1 Answer

My hoover 750la only rotates one way something stops it going the other way

you should be able to take the agitator out of the tub. from where you load the machine. pull it out. there should be some plastic pieces that normally flip back and forth like a rachet mechanism on teeth made into the plactic main piece.
these small plastic parts most likely have just worn out on one side to cause it to just agitate in one direction it is hard to explain how it works. these small parts are likely to be located at the top of the agitator where you may not have to take the entire agitator out. the parts will be under a center piece on top.
hope this helps....let me know. thanks

Jun 21, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

My deck cuts shoter on the rt,ie uneven

Check your tire pressures:
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1 Answer

Riding lawnmower blade

First, always wear safety glasses and hand protection when working on machinery. Also include my favorite saying; "Common Sense Prevails". No amount of overgrown lawn is worth getting hurt. Work on as flat a surface as possible, always chock the tires in both directions to prevent movement and disconnect the negative battery cable making sure it will not contact either battery posts while working on the mower. This will insure the engine will not start on it's own or the mower move of it's own accord. Release the parking brake, with the shifter in "neutral" position. Check your tire chocks and make sure the mower is not going to roll in either direction. Now, lower the deck to it's lowest position. Now loosen any guide pins that extend from the underside of the main chassis that keep the belt from coming off the drive pulley on the engine. Again, there may be one or more. Remove the belt from the pulley. Now find the linkage that tightens the belt when you engage the blades. 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Two blocks long enough to run past the length (front to back) on both sides of the deck will work as well. Remove the covers on both sides of the deck that cover the belt\pulleys on top of the deck by removing the bolts that secure them. Most are a self tapping type, some have nuts and washer on the underside, and some have studs welded to the deck, so you don't have to reach underneath. Some tractors have one of these covers, some two, and some non at all. Clean the top side of the deck with high pressure water from a garden hose, or a pressure washer if you have one. Be careful of flying debris. There may be rocks, pebbles or other items that can become flying missiles and injure you, or someone close by.Flip the deck over, again being careful not to trap your (or your volunteer's) hand between any moving parts and the deck (like between the sharp side of a blade and the deck housing) and place on your blocks in the same position. You can now access both the nuts holding the blades and the top side  of the pulleys that either have nuts as well, or are made to accept a wrench or socket. Using a block of wood, ("2 x 4" x 12" is a good size but adjust the size to fit your particular deck) insert the block between the deck and one blade on the side of the blade that will stop it when loosening the nut holding the blade, making sure to get a good "bite" so it will not slip when pressure is applied. You can also use a wrench or socket on the pulley retaining nut on the top of the deck to stop the blade from moving as they both employ the same shaft. 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The cutting edge of the blade is always the lowest part of the blade when attached. Clean the underside of the deck. You may have to include a scraping tool as grass buildup can become quite hard over time and appear to be part of the deck. Pay special attention to moldy, wet grass around the blade shaft. This kind of moisture can induce corrosion prematurely to the deck housing and the bearings\shaft housing. Look closely for any type of wire, line from weed eaters, cables or any line that can be picked up by the mower and can wrap around the blade shaft between the blade and the deck. This line can eventually work it's way into the bearings, causing the bearings to fail.  Carefully inspect the shaft, bearing and it's housing for damage, corrosion, etc. Repair\replace as needed. Remove any surface rust with a wire brush (hand or power) again watching for flying debris. Inspect the blades, looking for obvious impacts that have caused visible damage to the blades. If found, remove the blade shafts and check to be sure they haven't been bent. If they have, don't try to straiten them, but replace them. A bent shaft will have caused undue wear on the bearings, and a straitened shaft will be weak where the bend was. A failure of the shaft, bearings, or bearing housings can be fatal if the blade becomes detached and manages to fly out from under the mower while in use and strikes someone nearby. Now sharpen the blades, or replace them if needed. An experience blade sharpening service should be employed as the angle of the cutting edge and the level plane on which they travel is critical. Simply using a grinding wheel will not give you anything but a sharp piece of steel, but will cut unevenly. Clean any buildup from the blades and the shaft's mounting platform for the blades as rust or any foreign substance will cause the blades to be at an improper angle. While the deck is removed, inspect the holes where the raising\engaging linkages attach looking for wear to the hole or the linkage shaft. Replace if any undo wear is detected. Check for side to side movement of the pulley\blade shafts indicating a worn shaft or bearing. Replace if needed. Check the bearing housing the shaft travels through on the deck for electrolysis corrosion cause by dissimilar metals in a moist environment), cracks or other damage. Replace as needed. Inspect the deck belt for wear, cracking or age and replace if needed. It's always a good idea to replace it regardless when performing this deck//blade service. Reassemble in the reverse order of dis-assembly, using Loctite red on all threaded surfaces, and greasing any available grease fittings. Apply a coating of graphite lube or grease to the linkages where the attach to the deck an mower. Make sure all fasteners are tighten to proper specs. Lift the deck to it's highest setting, engage the parking brake, and reattach the battery. Start the mower and engage the blades checking for any undo noise indicating loose parts. Check the deck movement by lowering to different settings always listening and feeling for vibrations or noises. Should everything be in order, you may consider leveling the deck for optimum cutting performance. But that's a different question........ Best of luck, and please indicate your rating of this solution if appropriate. Thanks so much, Papa

Oct 18, 2008 | Garden

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