Rotor's need replaced

it looks like they are still using a floating rotor for 4wh drive

if so by removing brake caliper & mounting bracket the rotor will slide off
spray down around rotor & hab with rust penetrant,couple of taps/hits on rotor face
some rotors have a taped hole(see picture 2 o'clock)using 2 bolts screw in to assist removal
dont see any special tools being needed
good luck

The pads are hung on the outer ridge on the rotors,
because you don't take them apart once a year and
knock down the ridge,clean off all rust,inspect and
lube things

Use a wide screw driver or small pry bar between
the old pad and rotor to compress the piston

Try this:

It may surprise you to know that using an impact to install the wheels can cause uneven tightening and thus resulting in later warping of the rotor as it heats up and cools down depending on construction of the rotor.

I would have the rotors checked for run out again. Or have someone with a brake lathe chock the rotor up and verify this warpage.

trere is a parking brake drum assembly attached to the rotor.you need to back off the parking brake shoes.

Your brake master cylinder is faulty.

unscrew all of the screws around the hubs and never resurface rotors on them,buy new

In my oppinion Factory pads are far better than most aftermarket pads. You can rule out the rotors by taking them down to a mechanic that has a lave. once they start turning the rotors they will be able to tell if the rotors are warped. If your rotor thickness is under the factory minimum they could have become warped over time, which would explain why the problem got worse over time. In that case you need to purchase new rotors and have them machined. Just make sure you replace the old pads with new ones.

hello i think you should have the system power bleed with a power bleeder theres a good chance the plunger in the proportioning valve is sticking if you have this truck power bleed it will push out the old fluid replacing with new usually if theres any type of contaminates especially oil ,or power stewering put into master by mistake it would swell any rubber piece to the point of a hard pedal and nothing working then you would have to replace everthing like your being told the only thing you could still use would be the lines wich would have to be cleaned with denature alcahol i would have it bleed in sequence firthest tire down to the closest to the master goodluck

That 1&1/4 nut holds the axle shaft to the hub. It does not have to be removed to pull the brake rotor. If there are no screws holding the rotor to the hub, it is probably stuck. Tap the area on the rotor between the lug studs with a hammer. This should get the rotor loose.