Gas Tank will not open

Steve,

Try disconnecting your MAF sensor and then start the car...If it keeps running, then your MAF is bad and needs to be replaced. By unplugging the MAF the engine's computer will default to a preset value and keep the engine running. Also check this next one I found on the internet....go to Google and type in your problem and vehicle info...you'll fins alot of info. Good luck !This problem haunted my beetle forever. Everyone and his brother had a recommendation. I changed the fuel pump, filters, fuel pressure regulator, the MAF sensor, engine speed sensor, replaced the factory airbox with a K&N, kept stalling. Turns out the problem was something that not a single mechanic thought of, and that no diagnostic tool hooked up to your computer would find: sludge in the gas tank. Over time, the lining in the gas tank wears, creating a sludge. This is usually not a problem until you run below a certain level. For me, this is when the gas gauge goes below half. The solution would be to have the entire fuel system cleaned, which I did, but you have to get the tank pumped and cleaned too. Otherwise, the sludge remains. The temporary fix is to never let it go below half. I hope that helps!

add some sea foam to the tank with a bottle of octain( found at all part stores. then let it sit for a few hour. next run the tank almost empty, replace the fuel filter if accessible then top the tank off with new fuel. no real need to drop the tank and empty it,

On just about every vehicle I have ever seen, the fuel gauge will move faster from 1/2 to 1/4 (I never let a tank run past 1/4. Bad for the fuel pump) than from full to 3/4 or 3/4 to 1/2.
Do a mileage check. Fill the tank until the pump stops, reset your trip or note your odometer miles. Dive a few days or a number of miles. Fill the tank again until the pump stops and not the amont it took to fill. Note the number of miles you put on and do the math.

this is a common mistake,when i was selling cars i must have put gas in 20 diesel cars.you can run a diesel car with about 10%gas in the fuel with the only problem being hot starting and slower acceleration,(it is common for garages to tell customers that the whole system needs flushing,this is bollox,)NATO tanks run on 30%gas/diesel mix in arctic conditions(stops fuel from freezing and is less volatile than gas alone(takes a lot to burn diesel out of a pressurised container...) just use low power until you can refill with high octane gas...(diesel mixes with gas,it doesnt float on the surface or sink down...so filters are not affected either...))

beetles have what they call a "positive pressure"gas tank(the vent is in the cap)and it has a restriction in the filler to stop fuel leaking out if the car overturns.So if you try to put too much fuel in it will kickback and fill the recess in the fender.hence smell in car after refilling.......
(had 30 plus beetles in 3 years all great....when i worked for vw).

If you have not replaced the timing belt it could have jumped time and you must replace it before something disasterous happens.

the dealer gave you a ignition key, instead of valet key.
valet key should open the driver door and ignition. nothing else. if the key can't ope the door. try the trunk. if it open the trunk, the it is a wrong key.

sounds like another plastic rad has bitten the dust,replace the rad or hose if its split and refill with antifreeze and see what happens ,if ok then good if not post here again for more advice

try spraying some lubricant on the latches.

What do you mean "check the radiator"? Does the radiator not work or only work every other day? You could have a clog in the cooling system and it might be smart to get it flushed out.