Bilge pump switch keeps cutting out when turned on

check continuity on float switch to assure it's working.
do you have it wired like this?

Dishwasher ... generator ...
Make and model will help you get an answer.

Check the wires and directions, something is crossed. Make sure your pump can do both, be in auto and be used in manual mode. I think the on switch you want to wire in will activate the auto function. There should be a float switch on the pump, be sure that works as it should. The pump may be defective or have a wire crossed.

The float switch is normally wired to turn on by itself. To do this, you simply run a "hot" lead from the battery to the float switch, then from the float switch to the bilge pump. It is best if this wire has a fuse between the battery and the pump! The "negative" or ground side should already be supplied if the pump is hooked up to a switch on the dash board. IF there is not switch on dash, you may have to run a ground wire directly to the pump.

Hopefully the float switch for the Bilge pump is under the engine not the pump motor. Having an electric motor under an engine is a fire or explosion hazard Find the float switch for the motor and follow the tubing back to the pump. A replacement pump should have instructions. Only the pump intake should be in an explosive environment.

Does it not have an auto float switch

Could be a broken bilge pump. You can find some answers on the boating forum.


http://forums.iboats.com/bayliner-boats-37/?boatid=29



If the bilge pump is bad, you can find some on iboats.com


http://www.iboats.com/Bilge-Pumps/dm/view_id.217442

Sounds like the pump is cooked, probably need a new one. Also check the switch on the dash, sounds like it might have failed leading to over running the pump dry, overheating the motor causing a short in the motor somewhere. Boat electrics need regular maintenance, looking behind the panel with some switch cleaner in your hand is a good idea.

Disconnected all the circuits at the battery end. Reattached each circuit one at a time . I connected the hot lead first then used a fluke voltmeter on mil amp setting -used the red lead to the end of the load wire black negative end and the black fluke lead to the negative battery post -- registered the current draw and found the circuit that was draining battery then went to each device on the circuit in this case it was a bad bilge pump motor for some reason it was shorting out but not enought to blow the circuit fuse.

There's an installation manual available online. Black is negative ground; either brown or brown/white will turn on the pump. The intent is for a three way switch, connecting brown/white directly to positive 12 VDC while brown would go through an automatic switch (e.g., a float switch).