I keep replacing the fuses and then the car starts up fine... it only seems to blow the fuses when i accelerate really fast or like stomp down on the gas pedal... also when i hit a certain speed doesnt seem to shift or something and then fuse blew again.. just happened this onces with the speed issue. i was going 80 and it wouldnt go past 3 on the tacometer and then the car completely shut off... and wouldnt restart until i put in a new fuse. please i need help i just bought this car 2 weeks ago and i paid 1449 for it and it was supposedly state certified to be safe and has a brand new inspection sticker on it when i bought it.
Checm fuse box for loose wire connection accelerating will cause it to push to many ampps and blow fuse make sure fuse prongs are nor loose
SOURCE: Blowing Fuse
There are a few possibilities here. First, you may have high starting amps on the compressor. You mentioned the run capacitor being changed. I'm not sure if you have a start capacitor, but that should also be checked. If you don't have a start capacitor, I would recommend having a hard start kit installed in the unit. It's basically a start capacitor with an internal relay to take it out of the circuit when the compressor is running, and wires up in parallel to the run capacitor. Also, check all of your line voltage wiring. Make sure all the wiring connections are tight (wire nuts, screw terminals, etc.), and that there's no issue with wiring insulation rubbing off from vibration, etc. Finally, check the points on the compressor contactor. If the contacts are black and pitting, it causes arcing, which means excessive amp draw through the contactor.
SOURCE: Blows fuse wont start
More than likely its being caused by a short-circuit to ground in the wiring in your Cranking Circuit.
If it blows the fuse immediately after installing the fuse, its probably a hot-wire. If it blows it the second you try to crank it over, its probably one of the wires between your ignition and the Starter Relay.
To track down the bad wire you'll need a Wiring Schematic for the vehicle and either a Digital Volt/Ohm-Meter or Test-Light and a basic understanding of wiring which is... honestly a little hard to explain over the internet. However, that is the only course that can be taken without taking the vehicle to a qualified Dealership Technician.
SOURCE: keep blowing fuse for fuel pump
If it takes more than a couple of hours to blow the fuse its most likely the fuel pump. If it blows instantly you could have a grounded out feed wire (+) wire or a bad relay. Look in the haynes manual to get the location of the relay.
SOURCE: Fuse constantly blows in my car.
Did your radio only work with the tail lights on when the lights did work? There is definarely a short. If you can, get an automatic circuit breaker that fits in olace of the fuse. This is a trick I used when detecting shorts. The breaker will reset every few seconds and you won't have to keep replacing fuses The lights will go on and off as the breaker trips and resets and will stop cycling when you find the problem. This way gives you time to wiggle and wait wiring and connections and even disconnect things to narrow it down.--- Good luck........ Stay focused on any new wiring in the lighting circuit including the bulbs. Anything the switch controls including the switch. The auto breaker is available at parts stores and if you can't get one from a car parts store, Truck dealers do carry them. Get one that is lower than the one it csalls for. Ie; It normally calls for a 15 amp, get a10 amp. It will cycle faster. Do not bypass the fuse for there is a risk of fire. The breaker makes it a one man job . This trick has saved me a ton of diagnostic time.
SOURCE: Are shift settings supposed to light up? Is it a
Yes, they are supposed to light up. I believe that's on the same fuse as the instrument cluster, so if that lights up don't worry about the fuse. It's probably just a burnt out bulb. To replace, remove the knob - 2 screws, one in the front one on the rh side lift up, use thread lock to install, remove the floor console - seats forward remove one screw each side in the back, pull up to remove the parking brake console, seats rearward remove 2 screws from shift console, 2 pushpins each side, remove cupholders, lift and remove console. four screws to remove dial bezel then you'll see the connector for the lamp (the parking brake handle and gear selector will have to be moved to different positions to move console)
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