Question about Swift M2251C Monocular Microscope

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Loose Lens Holder

My 7th graders spin the lenses on the microscopes when I'm not watching. The result is a loose lens holder (that round thing that holds the three lenses) which makes the microscope unuseable. How do I tighten it back up? Thanks, Carl

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There should be a screw in the middle of the round objective nose piece. Using a small screw driver tighten this screw until snug.

Posted on Dec 31, 2012

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I seem unable to get a user or service manual online, however at a guess I would think that the retaining mechanism is inside the "head" of this beastie, so in order to access you would need to undo the screw that retains the viewing piece, this should give you access to the internals, however you have to be vary carefull that you do not contaminate the microscope. it may be easier to send it to be "cleaned" and hopefully when it returns it will have been tightened up.

Posted on Sep 15, 2007


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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There are adapters, but normally a 2" collimation tool is way way too heavy for a .965 eyepiece holder. Most of the eyepiece holders are made from plastic, and they break fairly easily, so you take a big chance of your 2" collimation tool dropping to the floor or concrete. Even if the plastic did not break, the weight of the collimation tool would bend the eyepiece holder out of position. It only takes the slightest amount to make your test worthless - after all, you're after precision. Bending or distorting anything destroys the precision. They do make 1.5" collimation tools, and there are adapters to get from the tool to your eyepiece holder. They also make things called "cheshire eyepieces" and regular collimating tools which will work with your 4" reflector.

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Well if it is the same as the 720, you will find a small recess in the leading edge of the glass lens/cover. Using a blunt screwdriver, insert it in the slot and twist it. The lens should gradually come away from the side of the oven. DO NOT attempt to do this if the oven has been in use as the lenses will become too hot to handle. Put a cloth on the bottom of the oven to catch the lens as it falls to protect it. Note that there may be a cut out on the inside of the lens to go over the edge of the bulb/bulb holder, so don't try to put the lense back round the wrong way.

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Is there any possible way that this lens can be hooked up to an EOS? More specifically a Canon 7D?

The answer to this is Yes and No. Yes there is an adapter to take the FD mount lens which is Canon's Manual lens to an EOS mount which is auto focus. As much as these third party manufacturers claim comparability there is really no way you are going to have "good" results. Here is the No part. To give you infinity focus there must be a lens mounted in the adapter this lens no matter how good the third party says they are you loose light, focal length and sharp focus. Your F3.5 lens will loose at least a stop and a half because the light is traveling through another piece of glass, so you are looking at a lens that is now about F5 at the short end to F6 at the long end. About the focus because now this lens has become your rear element is is more critical to flaws then the front element, any imperfections in that piece of glass is now magnified it still works but the results aren't as good. Also the focal length of the lens has now changed. If you are installing this on an EOS l7D the focal factor would be 1.6 is some cases this would be beneficial but in most others you loose again, it will take that 35 to 70mm lens and give you the focal length equivalent 56mm to a 112mm lens. Yes Canon made these adapters for a short period of time to help the pro shooters and their high priced lenses get through the transition BUT those adapters were only made for the professional lenses that was F2.8 or faster.
Yes it will work to some degree but No it's not worth it specially if you are installing it on a New Canon 7D.

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1 Answer

What is the function and the purpose of the parts of the microscope ?

Starting at the bottom of the Compound Microscope scope working up: The base of the scope houses the illumination system and the field lens. It also provides weighted stablility.
The field lens is where the light comes out of the base. This lens focuses the light from the bulb directly into the substage condenser.
The arm of the scope supports the rest of the scope.
Directly above the field condenser is the substage condenser. The substage condenser collects the light and condenses it further into a more concentrated beam of light. With the substage condenser you can control the amount of light and to some degree the defraction of light. This is helpful in adjusting the "contrast" in the image.
Working up, you find the "stage" which is a platform to support the specimen. The stage may or may not have a specimen holder and a set of specimen holder control knobs.
The magnifying lenses are called the objectives. They look like barrels pointing down at the stage. These are usually marked 4x, 10x, 40x, and 100x. These magnifications are further multiplied by the power of the eyepieces which are usually 10x. So, when using the 4x you are actually seeing the specimen at 40x and when you are using the 10x objective you are actually seeing the specimen at 100x and so on. The 4x is used to "scan" the specimen so that you can find the most interesting area and then focus in further on that region. It is very hard to find exactly what you want to focus in on starting with the higher magnifications. Always start with the low magnifications, 4x or 10x.
The objective lenses are mounted on a rotating turret for easy selection.
Moving on up the scope is the head. It is comprised of the eye tube and the eyepiece. If you have two eyepieces your scope is referred to as a "Binocular Compound Microscope". If you have only one eyepiece, your scope is a "Monocular Compound Microscope".

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1 Answer

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