Engine runs fast when unload - Honda 3000 Watt Portable Generator

When the engine is running but the high pressure lance valve is closed the pressure rises and lifts the unloader valve from it's seat and the water is then circulated through the unloader valve which presents considerably less resistance to the flow than the lance nozzle therefore the engine is doing less work.

When the lance valve is opened the line pressure will drop even further and the unloader valve will close causing a sudden pressure rise, therefore the engine will be working much harder.

Your unloader or your packing could be cooked and these washers can be a pain to work on or to even find someone to work on them. Since it is a cheaper fix I would replace the adjustable nozzle on your wand first. Those are notorious for going bad. Then you have no pressure and you think your pump is bad. Most electric washers arent worth working on as the cost of parts and labor often exceed the cost of buying a new one. look on your manual for the unloader and packing or jsut go here. FIND PARTS FAST Good luck!

It could be several things but it sounds like it just running too slow. I would the engine rpms first. Depending if is a two pole or four pole and if your 60hz or 50 Hz on the needed unloaded rpms.

Example: 2 pole 60 hz. Engine needs to be running at 3600 rpm loaded and 3750 rpm unloaded; unless, it has a fuel saving mode.
A 4 pole 60 hz would running half this rpm. The 2 pole producing 50hz would have the engine running at 3000 rpm loaded (about 3100 rpm unloaded)

Now in order for the 50 hz system to produce the same output voltage it requires a different alternator than the 60 hz version; otherwords, You simply can't convert a 60 hz to 50 hz version without changing the alternator by changing the engine speed.

Sounds like the unloader (regulator). Try removing the nozzle, the pull the trigger with the engine running. If motor is still running then it could be the Unloader malfunctioning. If you require a new one try a bypass system for the unloader. The bypass will help save the life of the unloader.

The unloader on yoru pump is bad.. Pressure washer parts catalog quick links Pressure Washers High Pressure... go here with your model number on your pump and they can guide you to your new unloader. Good luck

Since you did not include a model number.. I have to speak in generic terms. On the output side of the pump there is a high pressure / unloader / bypass valve. There is probably corrosion on the stem of the unloader and the corrosion is causing the stem to stick in the brass stem guide. Remove the unloader valve assy from the output side of the pump. Clean off the corrosion with some scotch brite and the GREASE the stem. (Make sure the input water supply hose is connected but NOT on.) Dump about 2 oz of engine oil into the hole where you removed the unloader valve. Place a liberal amount of grease in the hole where the unloader was then install the unloader valve.

Start the unit but do NOT turn on the water for about 1 minute. Squeeze the power wand knowing full well your going to get oil and grease out of the end of the nozzle for about 45 seconds. Begin cycling the wand trigger rapidly.... multiple times. Your forcing the unloader valve to work.... Then try normal use.

I Not only work on these I have an Excell 2400 with the honda 5.5hp GX 160 engine that just this last weekend I had to do this exact procedure for the same reasons.... It is working like a champ again and it was new in 1997.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Check for blue, snappy spark (gapped 0.020") at the spark plug. Check the fuel filter, air filter and muffler for plugging. Check the fuel lines for decay or other damage. Make sure the fuel mix is correct and fresh. Make sure the primer bulb (if equipped) pulls in fuel after several pumps. Check the carburetor fasteners for tightness. Make sure the engine case is free of sawdust to prevent overheating. Check the chain oiling--it should throw off a thin line of oil onto some cardboard from the bar tip with the engine running fast for several moments. The engine should 4-stroke at speed while unloaded, but immediately 2-stroke when cutting. Adjust the H jet needle to achieve this. Set the L jet needle so that the engine 'follows the throttle' and idles fairly well. Hope some of this helps!

To isolate whether or not the unloader valve is still stuck or sticking, try starting the unit with the wan trigger engaged water coming out to spray. If the unit runs while wan trigger is engaged and shut down when released your unloader valve isn't working. Hope this helps God Bless

1986-1989 Honda Accord with Carburetor have a very bad habit that is little known even by most mechanics but easily fixed at home. The vacuum port on the choke opener that is connected to the intake manifold and both vacuum ports on the fast idle unloader get plugged up with nasty hard carbon almost as hard as metal. When this happens the choke sticks closed and the idle sticks on fast idle when the engine is cold and nobody can figure out why. All you have to do is attach a small drill bit to the end of a flexible socket-driver extension and put it in a variable speed drill that will let you run it real slow and carefully drill out the vacuum ports that are plugged. After they are nice and clean use a vacuum pump tester to make sure the choke opener and fast idle unloader are working before putting it all back together. It's amazing how much better the car runs after cleaning out those ports.

Try a simple test. It is ok to run the pump without water for a short time. Check idle speed without water in system to see if enginet surges. If it does not surge, then most likely the unloader/ pressure valve is causing the engine to surge when in the unloaded state. Life of unloader /pressure valve is shortened by letting system bypass for long periods of time. Enjoy