Top 10 John Deere 420,1020,2010,2020,2510,2520 Tractor Float Questions & Answers

The PTO usually has a clutch that has to be engaged so that you can select the PTO rotation setting. I had a problem like that on my tractor and all it needed was a little adjustment on the PTO clutch lever, so it could disengage the PTO gearbox properly.

hello mr w, there are only two reasons that mower back fires through carb.,1 bad valve bent or sticking open, 2 key way on flywheel bent,engine out of time.hope this helps. oh could you please rate this solution,thank you.

Actually this is a fairly easy looking one to replace. If you go to John Deere parts and do a search for your tractor, in the parts listing it gives a pretty clear picture of the routing and configuration of the belt as it should go on, you might want to print it out to have nearby while you are working on it. You will need to remove the mowing deck to get at it and possibly some large blocks to elevate the tractor to give yourself room to work.
Look closely at the old belt if it is still on the tractor to get an idea what is involved BEFORE you start, comparing it with the picture. You will need to loosen and move or remove the belt guards and do be careful of the nylon fan on top of your transaxle

I found the diagram.

I know exactly the problem. I work for a John Deere dealership and have seen this problem before. It is called short-tripping. When a machine is first started, gas does leak into the cylinder and crankcase past the rings--normal--simulates leaving the choke on too long with a carburetor engine.. As the engine temperature rises, the gas in the oil is burned off and there really isn't a problem. When you take short trips or do not let the engine run to get it up to temperature, the gas in the crankcase does not get burned off and will accumulate over time. Make sure the machine is getting up to operating temperature and this could take up to 20 minutes if the ambient air temp is low. Feel free to e-mail at [email protected] with further questions

This model is known for shearing the flywheel key.

1. This cylinder is not to hard to disassemble.
2. Place upright in vise or suitable bracing.
3. Using a block or dowel of wood(maybe rubber mallet also), depress the top cap of the cylinder to relieve tension on the ring.
4. Use a small edged screw driver or pick and spin "retainer" in until the bent end comes to the opening.
5. Lift up and rotate the ring more to allow the ring to pass over the edge of the opening.
6. Once the retainer is started you can tap it with the wood and rubber mallet around the circumference of the cylinder to release the retainer from the groove.
7. If you havent done so by now the oil should be drained.
8. with the cylinder firm in vise(but not too firm to "distort the integrity of the cylinder.) Place the cylinder Sideways so you can pull out piston and rod assembly.*** Put hose or suitable drain on holes of cylinder***. With the motion of the piston the residual oil will tend to spray out.
9. Pull on the piston and position it to bottom out on the top gland(cap) ie:full extension
10. Place support under the rod to avoid damage. The gland is a tight tolerant fit with use of O-rings and backup rings. Too much offset can lead to damaging gland assembly, and jamming in the cylinder. You may be able to just hold with hand also depends on size, bore, stroke, pressure rating. Use due dilligence.
11. Now that its out you have the piston assembly with gland in hand..**if only the rod comes out there are more steps to take, and you need a new rod but sometimes its more cost effective to buy a new cylinder. If there is a farm supplier or hydraulic dealer near they can certifiably /replace repair the cylinder for you. Hydraulic pressure is kind of like lightening. If it strikes you under pressure it can kill you.*** Using the dead blow or rubber mallet try to pop the gland out by using the piston/rod assembly as the puller. You may not have to remove the top clevice or other end of the cylinder, so maybe you could tap on that.
12. The piston can be removed from the rod depending again on make. Usually a socket head cap screw or king nut holding it in place to the rod.
13. When the piston is removed you should be able to slide gland off also.
14. You'll need that pick and or the screwdriver to pick out the seals carefully. Let me know if you require more...WF Services

I, feel sorry for you, after reading your problem, but don't worry you visit the Reliable-Store they will help you for sure.
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My thought is that you may have a burned out temperature sensor on your radiator. You can find this by simply looking for a plug on the radiator that has a wire chassis connected to it. these things can burn out rather easy and it could have been effected by being hit by debris or other objects that could have caused the sensor to short out. Replace the temp sensor. Usually located near or at the bottom of the radiator. Hope this helps.

Open the hood and you should find a yellow push button,turn the key on,then push and hold the button in for 5 seconds or until the service reminder goes out.If yours is an early model with no push button then it will go out by it's self after 5 hours are put on the hour meter.