Check engine light on rpm gauge flatlines replaced crank sensor, timing belt & balance belt since i was there check engine light still on rpm gauge still not working sometimes the rpm guage will jump briefly if i apply sudden brakes or hit a bump last scan codes after above replacement parts were P0300 / P0302 / P0303

Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement

Remove the engine front cover . Refer to Timing Belt Cover Replacement in Engine Mechanical - 3.5L.

Remove the timing belt guide (703).
Remove the crank sensor and harness.


Timing Belt Cover Replacement
Removal Procedure
Remove the engine drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement .
Remove the right splash shield. Refer to Engine Splash Shield Replacement in Body Front End.
Remove the engine balancer using the EN 46337 .

Remove the timing belt cover bolts (8).
Remove the timing belt cover (7).

What make vehicle ? model an year too. Some vehicles have two crankshaft position sensors .

24X and 7X Crankshaft Position Sensors/Harmonic Balancer Interrupter Ring

One sensor is in the side of engine block an the other is behind harmonic balancer

From a(Retired Chrysler Tech) If prior to changing the T-stat & belts you were experincing a no start,Then afterward it started & ran fine until you again worked in the same area as before, The first thing I would do is to check any and all electrical "wiring" and or sensors & switches in that same area, If your vehicle is equiped with a crankshaft sensor it may be at the front of the engine in close proximity to the harmonic balancer,"crankshaft pully"& the wiring my be routed as to be easily moved while working in the belt area..pay close attention to the condition of the wiring. any wires that are exposed(bare) must be repaired or replaced. check for loose plugs at sensors. Be meticulous in your search, the smallest thing will create a no start in this type of set up.

I have a 2006 kia amanti and engine light was on code said crank shaft sensor So I changed it put all together now code comes up P0320....Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit ?? rpm gauge don't work anymore

take the head off bent valves thats for sure

very poss it could be crank sensor ,broken wire ? timing belt? advise installing scan tool that reads live data check eng rpm on scan tool see if shows eng rpm while cranking , poss remove upper timing belt cover make sure is turning and not damaged, poss computer related problem or power to eng systems would have to check for power at fuel injs and check for ground pulse with logic probe or led test light if crank sensor ok also check for spark at plugs with special plug tester and check codes first

If your sure its a fueling issue I would go to the wires that go to the fuel pump and check for power and ground. When the key is turned on the pump will run for about three seconds if you do not start the engine. If nothing happens then try cranking the engine and see if you have power. If you have power you will need a fuel pump. The pump is most likely in the fuel tank as is the filter. If you do not have power at the wires the you have a blown fuse of broken wire somewhere. Be aware the fuel pump is computer controlled and if the crank sensor is bad the fuel pump will not turn on. Easiest way to check for a bad crank sensor is crank the engine and check for a RPM signal. If you have a RPM gauge on the dash most of the time you cannot crank fast enough to get it ti move. Checking the RPM may need a timing light. Also a timing light will blink if the crank sensor is ok. If you have no RPM signal you most likely dont have fuel or spark., Easiest way to check for if you only have a fueling issue is spray a little brake clean into the throttle body. If it starts and stays running while adding very little spray of brake clean then you know its just a fuel issue. Also if the timing belt has stretched or jumped teeth this would cause a no start.

The timing and balance belts are 'wear' items, not covered under warranty unless they fail during the warranty period. How many miles were on the vehicle when the crank sensor was replaced? Did they recommend you replace the timing & balance belts at that time? I assume the damage which occurred happened after the 60,000 mile warranty. If so, the repair is not covered under warranty.

Which engine? 4 cylinder (2.4 lit) or V6 (2.7 lit)? Two different procedures as well as different belts. The 4 cylinder also has a balance belt. See next image:

Here's the 2.7 V6 belt:


The replacement procedure is nearly the same at the start (removing, accy drive belts, pullys, support engine & remove front engine mount, remove T.B covers, disconnect Cam Position Sensor & Crank Position Sensor connectors, etc.). When you get to this point on the V6, you also have to remove the front engine mounting bracket from the front of the engine (4 14mm bolts, also a 12mm bolt which bolts the dipstick tube to the side of it) Put crank shaft at TDC (top dead center w/ALL timing marks aligned) remove hydraulic tensioner (2 12 mm bolts), then remove the belt. You'll need to recompress the hydraulic (auto) tensioner in a vise and insert a retaining pin through the pin-holes at the top (through the tensioner piston) to keep it compressed when you reinstall it. Otherwise, you won't be able to install it. Assembly is reverse order of dissassembly. Inspect your pullys while you're in there (check for pully bearing noise, leaking grease, smooth rotation, also the water pump pully, etc.) Replace components as needed. Careful not to damage Crankshaft Position Sensor wire harness.

The 4 Cylinder is quite different. You not only change the timing belt, but also the countershaft (balance) belt, which is behind the crank position sensor blade. IMPORTANT: ALL TIMING MARKS ALIGNED BEFORE REMOVING ANYTHING) There are two (2) counter-shafts (balance shafts). one driven by the timing belt, the other by the crankshaft sprocket behind the timing belt sprocket at the front of the crankshaft.

Engine Cranks But Will Not Start

For an engine to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine. Compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.
Basic Checks:

A. Test Fuses. Test both under hood power distribution center and the fuse panel under dash. This is done with a test light tool. The test light should illuminate on both sides of the fuse, if not the fuse has failed and needs to be replaced.
B. Testing Fuel Pressure Test for proper fuel pressure with a test gauge on the fuel rail, most throttle body injection cars (TBI) are between 13 psi and 17 psi. and most (DPI) direct port inject systems are between 40 psi and 55 psi. If no or little fuel pressure is observed and there is 12 volt power present the fuel pump, the fuel pump needs replacing.
C. Checking Timing Belt Test for compression by removing a spark plug and insert a compression gauge. Crank the engine over about 5 seconds the gauge should read between 125 psi and 165 psi, if no compression is observed remove front engine cover to inspect timing belt or chain. Crank engine to observe cam rotation, if the cam does not rotate the timing belt or chain has failed. (note: if the timing belt drives the water pump it is best to replace the water pump at this time)
D. Test for Injector Pulse Remove injector connector to insert injector test light (node) or volt meter. Observe light flash or gauge pulse while cranking. If light/voltmeter doesn't respond, an ignition distributor/crank angle sensor (CKS) or an ignition module is most likely your problem.
E. Test for Ignition Spark Remove spark plug wire, insert an extra spark plug into end of wire, rest spark plug next to a ground source then crank engine. You should observe a blue spark between the spark plug gap and ground source. If no spark is observed, an ignition coil, ignition rotor or spark plug wires might have failed. (always keep hands away from engine when cranking)