I'm going to Telluride colorado around 9,000 feet. Is the sea level fuel air mixture still good ?
SOURCE: I don't know where the air/fuel mixture screw is on my carb
There should be one screw (I'm assuming it's the Carter YF carburetor 1 barrel) that's by itself away from linkages etc, more to center at base of carb where it meets manifold, that is angled approx 45 degrees going in to base. That should be your mixture screw. What symptoms are you experiencing anyway?
SOURCE: 22R Carb at high altitude
Yes, Colorado is much higher in altitude. Do to higher altitude the barometric pressure is less than sea level by a long shot. Lower barometric pressure mean that less air is entering your engine. Which in turns mean that your engine is now running richer than it was at a a lower altitude. So I recommend checking you engine timing, and adjusting your carbs air/fuel mixture. yes this means that you may need to rejet. but first there is a screw on your 22r's carb that you must adjust to lean the air mixture just right. I have had a stock 22r carbortor before and never had to rejet it. i probibly should have but it ran fine at sea level and all the way to about 10000 ft. after 10000 feet i had to lean the fuel mixture to even alow the engine to run. This screw that you must turn is hidden due to toyota not wanting you to tamper with it and burn your engine to the ground by running your engine to lean. it has a metal plug on the passenger side of the carb about the size of a pencil eraser. you must drill that out and then you can adjust the air fuel mixture. Clock wise is to lean the air fuel. and Counter clock wise is to richen the air fuel mixture.A good rule of thumb is to turn the air/fuel screw all the way clock wise and then back out about 2 and 1/2 turns. That is the factory adjustment. you may only need 2 turns out. Best of luck i hope you get it running perfect. Try this adjustment first then if it still runs rich then think about rejetting.
Here is a picture of what i am talking about.
#1 is the air/fuel mixture, #2 and #3 are cold and warm idle screws.
#4 is a A/c idle adjustment.
SOURCE: check engine light comes on every time I get into high altitude
we need a trouble code to at least where to start helping you. one thing that is vital is a BARO reading of your location(call the local airport, should be approx 29-30) and the BARO PID reading of your truck,it should read approx 155-156 ....if it reads like 140 the MAF sensor will need to be replaced.
SOURCE: How to adjust mixture on 1982 911
http://manualfile.com/Automotive/Porsche/
download yourself a workshop manual over a 1000 pages !!
goodluck
SOURCE: 1983 Mazda RX7 lacks power rough or no idle
i have the same prob but when i do get it running at bout 70 miles per hour i boggs and wants ta die at idle when i get to a lower speed after i restart it. ive changed the fuel filter and pump n cleened the tank. when i first got the car it had no probblems. no the car will barley start n if it dose it runs fine for a minute then i loose most of the power n it wants to die when i go ta idle. HELP!!!
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