High RPM shifting?

The factory makes no sift kit that would go in this car.

Chevy automatic transmission workings (Bob Hale) - Yarchive

yarchive.net/car/transmission.html

When a sufficiently high RPM is reached then the weights hit stops and do ... There are two shift valve assemblies, one for the 1-2 shift and the other for the 2-3 shift. .... Thehigh RPM factory governor appears to have about 1/3 less metal in the ...

Possible Transmission Issue - weird shift points/high RPMs ...

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Oct 2, 2012 - Thread: Possible Transmission Issue - weird shift points/high RPMs ... throttle pressure, but seems to blow past the 1st gear shift point and revs up to 4500 RPM or so then shifts. .... The 1 - 3 shifts actually felt pretty natural.

[PDF]Simple Shift Installation and Tuning Guide for Ford Trans ...

https://www.powertraincontrolsolutions.com/.../download.php?...Simple...

No such figure. Shift points can be near the redline RPM or just above idle, it depends on hard you press the gas pedal.

Not driving a corvette? Just kidding. More details are important. How slow is your acceleration? Is it 0-60 in 8 seconds, or 20 seconds? What is redline on your car? If redline is 5K then 4000 is a good responsible shift point. If redline is 8K then shifting at 4000 is probably robbing your engine of it's torque and horsepower band. I believe the GTS model has an 8K RPM redline, the GT may be lower, but in that case, shifting at 4K is too soon for strong acceleration. Your Tachometer should have redline clearly marked. For responsible use, stay below that, maybe 10-20%. For economy stay further still, but for power you need to let the engine use it's RPMS, especially smaller and fewer cylinder engines usually don't make their power until they are half way through the RPM range and above.

The 240sx auto transmission will not shift from 1st to 2nd until going about 25 mph with gentle throttle (35mph with full throttle). I do not recall what engine RPM this corresponds to, but i know it always seemed high.

As for the hard shift two second, there is rectangular module that is inside the driver side fender next to the ignition coil that is sometimes unplugged to get a more "sporty" feel out of the automatic transmission. Check that plug and if it is unplugged, plug it back in.

Transmission will never hold the engine back if it is going through the gears properly.If it gets into high gear, eventually the engine will reach "redline" if you stay into it long enough. ("redline" for any engine is the point at which it cannot run any faster without harming itself.) DO NOT confuse that with proper shift points which should happen just before you reach max torque which happens way before you reach "redline" at which point you are way past the torque peak of the engine, and making no usable torque or horsepower. An example of this is a race engine with a max rpm limit of 10,000rpm.("redline") Depending upon the torque curve (determined by compression, stroke and type of cam grind) you would likely be shifting gears at about 7500 to 8500RPM not at 10,000.
Therefore, your shift points are like climbing a ladder. you get just so high and though there are more steps, you will fall off if you go there. Each time you shift, you are putting the rpms back into the usable power band, till you reach the next step, then start over again. If your trans shifts early the engine will lug and labor. shifting too late and it will quickly reach "redline" and self destruct or go "flat". In a conversion, you need to make sure that the electronics that control shift points are working within the usable torque range.
OR install a manual valve body and shifter and control it like a stick shift car, using your brain as the computer and a tach to tell you where you are.

How many gears does your car have? One of my cars has to do a little over 3000rpm to maintain 70-75 in 5th gear. My other car has to do about 3000rpm to maintain 65-70 in 5th gear.

It all depends on the number of gears your car has and the gearing ratio. The second car I have is geared more optimally for city driving and gets better fuel economy going slower than fast highway speeds.

Having driven several rental cars too I would say anywhere between 2500 to 3000 is reasonable for the average car. If you are driving a vehicle like say a porsche, bmw or audi they may have more gears and may be at a lower rpm at 70mph than your car.

depends on gas pedal position,the lighter you are accelerating the earlier the trans should shift,if it always hangs on in gear get it looked at...as it can shift at redline (5000-6000 rpm,if you hold the gas peadl down fully).

THE IDLE SPEED SENSOR SOUNDS LIKE IT IS FAILING. THE IDLE SPEED SOLENOID CAN PREVENT THE TRANS FROM SHIFTING AT DESIGNATED RPM'S. THE THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR WORKS IN CONJUCTION WITH THE IDLE SPEED SENSOR TO TELL THE COMPUTER THE DEMAND FOR FUEL AND THUS SHIFTING THE TRANS AFTER THE RPMS HAVE REACHED ALMOST REDLINE. TRY CHANGING THE SENSOR AND YOU WILL HAVE SOLVED THE NO SHIFT PROBLEM. THANKS FOR USING FIX-YA AND FOR AN HONEST RATING. PLEASE KEEP ME POSTED. GOOD LUCK

With normal acceleration the 1st to second shift point should be around 2500-3000 rpm. Most of your shifts under moderate acceleration will take place at this same point or when there a light load on the transmission. Under hard acceleration the RPMs will climp higher due to increased power needs and the computer will shift when less power is needed or the RPMs climb to an unsafe speed say5000-6000rpms (depending on where yours redlines). Also going up a steep hill will raise the RPMs higher and goind down a hill will cause a faster shift at lower RPMs. These can always be altered by an individual owner by adjusting shift points, using performance parts and if you have problems (low tranny fluid/trans issues). Your trans RPMS are fine and will vary depening on how your foot accelerates. The shift pattern should be the same every time you drive slow/medium/fast/, look for changes in those patterns you will also catch a problem early.