2004 beetle brake problem

are you trying to bleed the lines or is it no brake pedal? anytime you change brake lines bleeding is hard the best way is fill master cylinder leave top off careful brake fluid will eat the paint then open the two frnt bleeder vales let gravity bleed then it might take up to 5 minutes once fluid starts to flow shut the bleeder vale this should help you good luck Mike

Here is the procedure from the manual:

1. Clean all dirt from and remove the brake master cylinder filler cap and fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with the specified brake fluid.

1. Place a box end wrench on the RH rear bleeder screw. Attach a rubber drain tube to the RH rear bleeder screw and submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid.

1. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal and then hold firm pressure on the brake pedal.

1. Loosen the RH rear bleeder screw until a stream of brake fluid comes out. While the assistant maintains pressure on the brake pedal, tighten the RH rear bleeder screw.
   • Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out.
   • Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir as necessary.

1. Continue bleeding the system, going in order from the LH rear bleeder screw to the RH front bleeder screw, ending with the LH front bleeder screw.

Take wheels off
remove calipers
compress caliper pistons by opening bleeder screw and using tool to compress and turn piston back to bottom of caliper
close bleeder screw
install new pads and caliper
add brake fluid to master cylinder

Remove the old Brake Pads

1 Park your car on a level surface. If you have a stick shift car make sure the car is in gear. Do not set the parking brake. Place blocks in front of the front tires so the car does not move while you are working on it.

2 Open the hood of your car and locate the master cylinder. If necessary, remove brake fluid until the level in the container is less than half full. A turkey baster is a good tool for this. Put the brake fluid in the plastic container and dispose of it the way you dispose of motor oil.

3 Raise the rear end of your car with your car jack. Remove the rear tire or wheel assembly.

4 Remove the parking brake cable from the back of the caliper. Use the pliers to remove the cable clip (restraining clip).

5 Use the socket wrench to remove the upper mounting bolt from the caliper. If the upper guide pin moves while you do this, use a back-up wrench to hold the upper guide pin.

6 Rotate the caliper downward, pivoting it on the lower caliper bolt. Remove the inner and outer brake pads from the caliper.

Install the new Brake Pads

1 Turn the caliper piston clockwise to retract it into the caliper housing. Insert the new brake pads into the caliper.

2 Swing the caliper upward and into place. Apply a thin coat of thread locking compound to the bolt and use the socket wrench to tighten the bolt to 271 inch lb. (35 Nm).

3 Reattach the parking brake cable to the caliper.

4 Replace the tire wheel assembly. Lower the car to the ground.

5 Pump the brake pedal a few times to seat the brake pads. Do this before trying to move your car.

6 Add fluid to the master cylinder container to replace any you removed before you removed the old brake pads.

7 Season the brake pads by making only gentle stops when you are driving for the first week after you install the new brake pads. Try not to do any hard stopping when you are seasoning the brakes.

Read more: How to Change the Rear Brake Pads on a VW Beetle ' eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_4507338_change-rear-brake-pads-vw.html#ixzz19NhtfzIk

You open the bleeder valve
Then you need a tool, to turn in the parking brake ratchet,clockwise
As your turning in the piston,it will also push back into the caliper

After you have pads on,ratchet up P-Brake by hand

Then bleed all 4 wheels
RR
You do not bleed ABS,but you do however have motor running
and a helper to slowly press brake pedal, as you open and close
bleeder approx 10 times,until clear fluid and no air.

Do this every 2 years (bleed)

You will not find an LS tool. Buy the $9.00 square combo cheapy
and file a little off one of the two pin sides, to fit

When you turn the piston, be sure the notch is up,I think,so the pad pin goes over it

Use Raybestos Ceramic Pads on front and back
Backs were Ceramic OEM and fronts work well and no dust.

Sand off all rust everywhere,anti-seize on all caliper mounting stainless
slippers and pad ends.
Both sides of rotors,back of wheels etc.
May have to file off paint from pad ends, to get a nice fit and sliding free

you may have air trapped in the ABS EHCU. Did you use this procedure?

Bleeding the EHCU

Bleeding the EHCU requires the use of the TECH-1 scanner or its equivalent and the appropriate cartridge. Additionally, 3 tools, J-39177 or equivalent, are required. Bleeding cannot be performed without this equipment.
The EHCU must be bled after replacement or if air is trapped within the unit. It must be bled after bleeding the master cylinder and before bleeding the individual wheel circuits.
The Internal Bleed Valves on either side of the unit must be opened 1 / 4 - 1 / 2 turn before bleeding begins. These valves open internal passages within the unit. Actual bleeding is performed at the two bleeders on the front of the EHCU module. The bleeders must not be opened when the system is not pressurized. The ignition switch must be OFF or false trouble codes may be set.

1. Open the internal bleed valve 1 / 4 - 1 / 2 turn each.
2. Install one tool J-39177 on the left bleed stem of the EHCU. Install one tool on the right bleed stem and install the third tool on the combination valve.
3. Inspect the fluid level in the master cylinder, filling if needed.
4. Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it down.
5. Open the left bleeder on the front of the unit. Allow fluid to flow until no air is seen or until the brake pedal bottoms.
6. Close the left bleeder, then slowly release the pedal. Wait 15 seconds.
7. Repeat Steps 4, 5 and 6, including the 15 second wait, until no air is seen in the fluid.
8. Tighten the left internal bleed valve to 5 ft. lbs. (7 Nm).
9. Repeat Steps 3-7 at the right bleeder on the front of the unit.
10. When bleeding of the right port is complete, tighten the right internal bleed valve to 5 ft. lbs. (7 Nm).
11. Remove the 3 special tools.
12. Check the master cylinder fluid level, refilling as necessary.
13. Bleed the individual brake circuits at each wheel.
14. Switch the ignition ON . Use the hand scanner to perform 3 function tests on the system.
15. Carefully test drive the vehicle at moderate speeds; check for proper pedal feel and brake operation. If any problem is noted in feel or function, repeat the entire bleeding procedure.

it would sound like your master cylinder if you did bleed your brakes right.

Special tool is a 1" cube with tabs on each side that fits into indentations on the brake piston and can be purchased for $10-12 @ most discount parts stores. Use 3/8" ratchet with short extension and 'special tool to carefully turn piston onto internal hand brake screw. Take care to not tear dust boot. When piston is fully collapsed, make sure to align piston indentations perpendicular to brake pad as there are bumps on pad that fit into them. Also while screwing in piston either remove about 2/3 of brake fluid in master cylinder and refil afterwords or open the bleeder valve on brake piston assembly. Bleed if necessary.

To bleed you brake system, you will need brake fluid, a jar, and a couple feet of small hose that fits tightly on the bleeder screws. You should not need to remove the tires to access the bleeder screws, but you may need to raise the vehicle a bit to access them.

To bleed the system, start with the right rear wheel. Put a couple inches of brake fluid in the jar, attach the hose to the bleeder screw, put the hose in the jar of brake fluid, then open the bleeder screw. Once the bleeder screw is open, pump the brake several times. Next, close the bleeder screw. After you close the bleeder screw, remove the hose and jar, then fill the master cylinder with brake fluid.
Repeat the steps going to the left rear second, right front third, and left front last.

Once you have bled the system your brakes should be tight and working nice.

I hope this information helps you, and I wish you luck on your repair.

I didn't have a "cube tool", used a pair of channel locks. Worked great. Thanks.