When i go uphiil the engine lugs like its not getting any gas. usually happens when the engines cold. also stalls when backing down a steep driveway.

My car runs good when it's cold but stalls once it warms up ...

www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/page/ptype...id.../prd289.htm

My car runs good when it's cold but stalls once it warms up? ... In this situation, you can usually re-start the engine once it has hada chance to cool back ... it'll fill-up and exits fuel right up and out the vent tube which dumps it down the middle of ...

Car starts and after warmed up.. it dies!! HELP! - Honda-Tech

honda-tech.com/...del.../car-starts-after-warmed-up-dies-help-2797652/

Jun 28, 2010 - Car starts and after warmed up.. it dies! ... but if i let it sits for awhile till the engine is cool down it starts right up but after its warmed up.. it dies.

Troubleshooting an Engine that Stalls at Idle When Warm ...

www.gearheaddiva.com/.../troubleshooting-an-engine-that-stalls-at-idle-...

tuned up is it, (spark parts, filters?)
stalls? hot and cold or only cold.
or due to stalling cold can never get engine hot to 180F.?
there are over 50 causes, the tests are 10x less.
1: can you save the stall with a fast right foot.???????
and what size engine?

There are several possibilities for this problem. A "cold start" sequence is suppose to activate based on water temperature and the signal from the water temperature sensor. This makes the fuel rich and adjusts timing to make the engine run better when cold. It works like a choke only it is electronic.

There may be 2 sensors with one making the dash gauges work and the other doing the engine controls. If not 2, then 1 sensor would do the whole job.

Another possibility is an air leak in the fuel system which makes the system bleed dry overnight. It is far less common on gas engines but happens a lot on diesels.

Some earlier Ford engines from 1984 to I don't know when they stopped on trucks, would use a step-up solenoid on the accelerator bracket that worked off water temperature. Sometimes a bad water thermostat would make the temperature controls malfunction the other way (High idle, clicking, low idle) that would stall and engine as the temperature vary.

**** = jeeeerk.....?
no year, stated. wow ! 1993 to present.!
only Jeep GC.
no engine stated. nor transmission option type,?
stalls, all stalls end with the CEL glowing this is NORMAL the CEL
the CEL glows at key on, for self test. and at all stalls.
if you had looked closer at the cluster ,lots of lamps glow , at self test.

the jeerking (spelled wrong to fool the stupid bad words engine)
Jeerking is usually engine gross misfire, or loss of DC 12v electical power to the EFI systems. called DC power loss or battery power lost.
if all lamps in the car work , radio, heater blower, dash lamps all work
then the DC power is ok, Head lights work at STALL.?
it's not the transmission

so its just an engine stall. (RPM was 0, is the big clue there)
engine RPM = 0 is a stall.
cause by gross misfire, The PCM does many things to stop all stalls.
but cant correct gross misfire, it cant.
top reasons on jeeps is....

or the JEEP ASD relay dropped you out)
btw: ever get a tune up this decade or every 60k miles?
if not , why not?

There are all these ways for the ASD relay to drop.
here are all ASD causes.

http://www.fixkick.com/Jeeps/ASD.html

there are tests for each drop logic path..
many are simple, did the SKIM lamp glow?
what I do after a real tune up is.

connect a scan tool and drive.
and bam, communications failure, you lost 12vdc power to the PCM.
bad 12v power. (loose fuses to PCM?) battery cable lugs GREEN?

or you get DTC errors. live or pending or freeze frame seen.
got DTCs?, BINGO.

The PCM even tells you ASD pin errors.
bad ignition coil (s)?
etc.

ok and XL 7 but what engine options. gas, diesel, 2L , 2.5L?
what?
and most important , and never ever 1 time stated on this forum
what country.
leaping?

im not sure what you are saying.
it runs ok cold, and as it warms , the engine. it stalls.?
and what does same thing mean.?
my guess, it starts fine then stalls; hot.
but can you save the stall?

stalling is complex. can be many systems in the car.
but can be broken down to :
Ever did the 60k mile tune up,ever? if not why not.
never skip 60k\'s or the motor will run like garbage.


1: lost electrical power. to EFI .
2: bad engine, in that when it gets hot , it loses compression.
3: lost park. 1 or more cylinders, 4 or 6 you never said.
4: bad injection. 1 or 6 of them, flooding or starving.
5: bad fuel.
6:EGR sticking , usually this happens just before a stop sign.
7: if the stall was a bog and the fast right foot saved the stall, easy
the ISC is sticking closed.

if the happened the engine should stall and die..if your lucky it might run again

well you have convertor lock prob prob a sensor for trans let me know hey till fix ya bouy me ok

had same problem with 00 dodge neon between half and quarter tank going up steep hills it would lose power and stumble,at quarter it would start to stumble and stall.fuel filter was completly blocked after changing fuel filter it would not stall,when gas tank was low fuel pressure would go down,changed fuel pump and it did it

Sounds like you need a clutch replacement.

Try this. Go somplace where there are no cars, and no possibility of running into anything. Stop the car. Set the park brake. With the engine running, put the vehicle in 1st gear. Hold the foot brake pedal, and give it gas, and let out the clutch slowly.
If the engine does not stall real quick, the clutch disc is bad.

If you are "lugging" the engine, you will get increased exhaust temperature (EGT), this will trigger your "turbo" light(not a good thing), ideally you should have an aftermarket "pyrometer" fitted to your car, this will show you the optimum revs etc you should be using in any given circumstance.Or revise your driving technique, ie change down gears earlier.
The turbo should be idled down after long trips or heavy towing, this allows the oil temps to stabilise and turbine speeds to stabilise, thus idle for 2-5 minutes.