1998 Diamante transmission seal (removeable or not?)

transmission filter in the bottom of transmission bolted to valve body.you need a large drain pan.place drain plug under transmission oil pan.remove transmission oil pan drain plug.let all transmission fluid drain out then screw back drain plug in oil pan.then you need to remove transmission oil pan then remove filter and replace pan gasket also.make sure you have right amount transmission fluid on hand.buy extra because if you short of fluid you cant drive car if fluid level too low.make sure you get the right amount fluid.torque pan bolts to 96 inch pounds.

to drain the dransmission on this is to undo the dran plug that is on the side of the transmission. is a 24mm plug, behind the black cover. if your standing at the front of the vehicle, the plug goes in from the side, it is situated just infront of the LHF wheel behind the black cover.

what hub?front back right left?put the wheel back on and trade it in mitsubishi are a nightmare.

open the trunk then twist open the lock cover thats in front of the light u want to change then change the bulb.

It's mounted low on the engine in the front. It's easiest to jack the car up and remove the plastic cover under the car and you'll find the alternator.

IT IS ON THE TRANSAXLE CASE IT IS A SCREW ON IT LOOKS LIKE A OIL FILTER. ON AUTOMATIC ONLY. MAKE SURE YOU CLEAN SURFACE AND ADD TRANS OIL TO SEAL.

the diamante is a front wheel drive car,if it does not move ,you probably have a bad transmission ,turn on car with cold engine in neutral ,check fluid,make sure fluid reads at cold level on dipstick,if fluid is all right sounds like you have a bad trans-good luck

Its a very big job, especially on a diamante. You need to disconnect any electrics to the transmission, remove the half shafts or universal joints, disconnect the shift linkage, remove the gearbox mount(s), the oil hoses. basically disconnect anything that is connected to the transmission. I believe however in a diamante you may be best removing the whole engine/transmission as a whole then seperate them outside the car.

Hi, I am assuming you know where starter is. If you have found bottom bolt #14 metric socket which to reach you "must" use a medium length extention and go into it right above manifold pipe to reach it. I found if you take the guard off the starter 3 small hex head screws, it is much easier to get at all bolts (2). Whats strange is the lower bolt on starter mounts from the front and the "TOP" bolt #14 has to be reached from the rear of starter. You can not see the top bolt from bottom or top, but if you use your hand and reach up aroung the back of starter you can feel it! It took 2 of us one reaching up from bottom with just #14 deep well socket (no extention) on the rachet and feeling where to place it with rachet facing up, and person over top of engine reaching down helping to align socket on bolt, then use a piece of pipe or ? From the top place pipe extension on end of rachet and bolt will easily.
break loose. Good Luck it sounds hard but is fairly easy with right tools. kasheyboy77

I just did an alternator replacement on my 93 Diamante, and it is a doozy. I'm a professional mechanic and I have quite some experience with this kind of stuff too. The alternator will not just come out, even after removing the belt / bolts / axle (for access).

The trick is to push the now loosened alternator up and back then turn it 180 degrees so that the pulley side is inward. then you can work it out if you properly use the shallow depression in the **** main beam while avoiding the chunk of aluminum that protrudes from the engine block near the timing belt cover. At first you will swear it cannot come out. You can also use a prybar to GENTLY push up the motor between the subframe and the oil pan. Do not push hard. The alternator will come out if you wiggle and jiggle it.

I used a lift and had complete access to this area and it was still horrible. Good luck.