1996 ford explorer have 4 new rotor and brakes , plus rebuilt caliper bleed all and new master cylinder bench bleed. Still padel to the floor, if I pump three times it stops.

Before you install a new master cylinder you are supposed to bench bleed it to get all the air out first then install it the bleed the wheel cylinders the farthest from the cylinder fit so it s like this /1\RR/2\LR/3\RF/4\LF IF YOU DIDN'T BENCH BLEED IT YOU MOST LIKELY BLEW THE PRIMARY SEALS IN IT BUT YOU CAN TRY TO BENCH BLEED IT TO SEE IF IT RESPONDS AND GETS VERY STIFF WHEN YOU APPLY FORCE TO THE PISTON TO PUSH IT IN WITH A BLEEDER KIT INSTALLED ////FITTINGS FOR THE CYLINDER WITH HOSES YOU SUBMERGE INTO THE BRAKE FLUID IN THE CYLINDERS FRONT AND BACK AT THE SAME TIME HELD LIGHTLY IN A VISE TO HOLD IT STEADY

it can be one of 2 things first did you bench bleed the master cylinder or the rear brakes are not ajusted up

you need to rebuild or replace the master cylinder

What is the condition of both front calipers? both rear wheel cylinders? and the complete brake lines and hoses of your van? If they are all good with no traces of leakage, then did you bleed the Mastercylinder on the bench first before installing in the van? Did you gravity bleed the 4 wheels first? did you bleed from the farthest wheel first? Are you using a new Master and not a re-built??

When you pushed the pistons back into the caliper so the new pads fit over the rotors did you look an see how full the master cylinder was ? You did push the pistons in didn't you ? Over flowed from master cylinder ? After replacing pads you didn't pump up the brakes ? The pedal will go to the floor but should pump up . Just replacing pads wouldn't make the master cylinder go out . How was the pedal before your brake job ?

check the master cylinder. it can go bad without leaking. the fluid bypasses the internal cups causing a fall in the pedal. also if you broke the lines lose to do calipers you might have air in the system bleed it good. if not i suspect the master cylinder

Sounds like a wheel bearing is bad. This would allow the brake rotor to wobble when you turn, pushing the brake caliper piston back into the severely released state. So, when you press on the pedal, it takes a lot of fluid to make up for that large gap. Check for play in the wheel bearings on the front.

remove wheel
remove pads, they just clips on to the caliper and will pop right off with a screwdriver.
There are 2 different kinds of calipers that ford uses. on oine you will be able to take a c-clamp and force the piston back into the caliper. ON the other type you have to have a $10 tool from oriellys. This tool will hook to the backside of the caliper and turn the piston back in. ONce the piston is backed off, clip on new pads, and slide over rotor. Should be 1 pad on each side of the rotor.

there is no need to bleed the brakes unless you loosen lines which you shouldnt have to do.

Did you bench bleed the master cyl. before installing it? then when you installed the new master, did you bleed all 4 points? If yes, then check all for points for leaking caliper/s and leaking wheel cylinder/s. If the van has ABS, check the valve body for a bleeder screw and see if air bleeds out of it. If you've checked everything twice and did everything right then your new master cyl. may be defective.

You have to check your master cylinder, pump your brake several times and hold it, see if is going down to the bottom, if does, the master cylinder is wrong, check the brake pressure hose, maybe you have some air in your brake lines, be sure you have enough brake fluid