After driving and hot turn car off try to start and drops offidle and stalls

Is the engine idle just set a bit low anyway? Can you access the idle adjustment and turn it up a tad? The sluggish drive may be in need of an engine service but a 1.3 is small for this car. Check out online car owner forums to see if others think so to.

hello Dennis. (no miles stated)
what engine, 4.0L I6 2.5L? I4
ever tuned it up? all spark and filters, the 60k mile, ever?
this post is random engine stalls?
so does it stall hot or cold or both
does it stall moving, right foot planted, cruisng
or only parked, or only as you come to a stop
do dash lamps/gauges or? go out before the stall? (look)
CEL off running.. ok, no DTCs stored if USA car. is it?

my guess is this stall can happen hot or cold engine.
location not in klondike (location not stated, so wild guess.)
hot stalls, ?
1 lets say coming to a stop. is very common EGR sticking open
2 never tuned up, ever or even the last decade?
3: ISC/iIAC sticking closed, jeeps love to do that any I4 , its a big issue. the idle stepper motor cone gets gummed up, clean it.
i clean both my jeeps, I4 ISC like 100 times since 1988.
4: bad TPS. but usually it throws DTC'S for this. if driven hard)

some I6' have no EGR valve. PCM has no EGR pins.!
you can monitor DC power at the CIG lighter, to see if power drops
at stall, easy, 13.3v to 15v is normal or ALT system is dead..

make sure the Automatic shut down relay is not being shut down
by PCM (DB/YL wire) goes to 12v is shut down, 0v is not.
the PCM can cut the ASDR for may reasons, oil pressure or battery overheat,? many, best it to find out of this RELAY is dropping EFI
off LINE. IT can .

lets do stalls.
i see tachometer drop below 800 RPM hot .
i try to save the stall, ISC stuck closed, and my right foot
opens throttle instictively and i save the stall.
easy, that is loss of air. see why?
on mine the stupid, ISC/.IAC works like this
the PCM remembers to ISC positions (stepper)
one cold start and one hot start (a secret i learned)
it then looks at water temps and guess (math) at a best start position.
if it used hot ISC for a COLD start the engine will want to flood due
to valve mostly closed, from last hot shut down,.
so floods, use right foot 10% ,

so i cant comment on what it might be until you state (displacement)
the engine temps. at fail
the operational mode, parked, stopping or between 5speed mt shifts.
or what?
if it fails parked in drive way.
or only moving or only coasting.
stalls on the fly?

im online at alldata.com and there are 16pages for PCM only.

this car the PCM controls the Alternator, (a software reg)

now another tack.
the car in usa, as OBD2, i connect my scan tool
and log, i drive and log. car stalls
i drive home ,play back my logs, and bingo
i see what happens at the stall, all sitting at my desk.
warm and dry.
lost comms,?. is DC power lost.
Pending DTCS
real live DTCS
some DTCS auto clear, at die.
some PCMs will reset the CKP or CMP sensor or spark failures.
so can only be seen live. (watching, 1 more secret)

now Bar stool answsers (any EFI car)
ever tune it up, ever do the 60K>? if not why not now?
lost spark, see if spark is being lost at stall, (at all plugs)
bad fueling, (too high or low fuel pressure at stall)
loss of air (ISC/IAC failed)
EGR (if there) stuck wide open,


if the engine runs perfect at most times, its probably ok
so is bad spark or fuel
spark is first. but not if never tuned up.
fueling is last to check , as PCM cuts fuel with spark failure sensed.
bad fueling can be bad injection or total loss of air supple , at idle.

Although your temperature gauge may show that it works, some models have a second temperature sensor for the engine management system.
That second sensor provides info which sets curb idle and timing advance. The "Cold start" feature is a part of this. The hic-cup is something of a bucking symptom as the engine controls toggle between hot and cold run settings repeatedly as water temperature is not stable.
In the past, I found several 1984 engines having defective thermostats which are tied into "Step-up" solenoids for the curb idle. What happens is idle speed is suppose to drop when the engine is hot.
When someone adjusts the curb idle while the engine is on the "cold setting", the setting(rpm) will be too low once the engine has heated up and the part drops to a hot setting.
So to clearly define your problem, you have 2 stemming from the same defects. The "in motion" problem is caused by timing changes based on temperature and the "idle" problem is caused by improper adjustment of the curb idle solenoid because of unstable operating temperature.
What you want to do is change your thermostat. This will give you a stable temperature. Then let the engine heat up and you should notice a "click" and the engine should idle down. It may stall. Then turn the idle rpm up until the engine will not stall.
The hic-cups should disappear once the operating temp is reached. If you still have problems then look for the water temperature sensors before replacing expensive parts.

For the age of this car it is a combination of both the fuel filter and pump, i owned one several years ago and found that the gas tanks are prone to rust inside, if you have replaced the pump and filter you may want to drop the tank again and check the screen on the pump if it is brown you have rust in the tank: another problem i had ( if you bought an oem pump ) they tend to slip out of position, you can tie the pump it place so it doesn't move......

Not familiar with a "power steering" warning.

I think this is similar to a oil pressure light coming on. What you are seeing is that the car is trying to stall, so the loss of power causes the power steering pump pressure to drop, and thus the warning.

Need to understand the underlying issues:

(1) Since you start with a power steering warning, must ask, are you making a short turn when this occurs?
(2) If not turning, then need to understand what you are doing when car tries to stall: Driving at highway speeds, idle, car hot/cold?

Could be a CPU problem, less likely a transmission problem, but on a 2005, should be getting a check engine light.

check that crank sensor

These re known for head gasket failures when at operating temp. should do a compression check hot and cold.

Check out the catalytic converter, might be plugged up. I have seen some cars that will run fine, and like someone threw a switch the car acted like yours, no power, would not rev and died. Later when cold they would be OK for a while then just get worse and worse.

First change fuel filter and then change air filter. A turbo requires good air flow to spool-up correctly