Hello, ok I got a 95 Yukon 4 door, now with the four door they have the dog bone insulators. The 2 door has cross member right to the frame. I recently got into an accident smacked a curb with the passenger front side wheel, and it snapped my dog bone. I have replaced this twice and it still snaps. Now My questions is to fix this would it be best to replace the keys in the cross member will that help? I read some forum saying I should take the cross member out of a 2 door and drill new wholes in it and use that as a cross member to avoid the continue snapping of the dog bone that happens in 95's. If anyone has much knowledge of this please contact me. Thanks Pat.

There are 4 motor mounts on the engine. You found the top mount. The bottom mount on that side is a dog bone and is right under the crankshaft pulley. The bottom mount is on the other side in about the same place. The drivers side top mount is another dog bone and is under the battery box. For best results, change all four of them at once, and make sure to buy a GM original mount for the top one. The knockoff mounts just aren't as smooth and durable as the real thing. Believe me on this one, the huge difference is well worth the few extra bucks.

cross members are the chassis members that tie the side frame rails together. There will be one at the front and another at the centre of the chassis and one at the rear . There is a bolt in cross member at the rear of the gear box (rear engine mount). Most modern cars are uni-construction (that is the body is complete and the front section will have a front cross member and the sub-frame rails will be bolted under the body around the front door pillars and onto the fire wall.. IN heavy vehicles there is a front cross member the carries the front engine mount another after the gear box to carry the cabin mounts and then a member every 3-4 feet to the end of the chassis rails . Their only purpose is to tie the chassis rails together.

Dana 50 Front Axle

Observe the following torques;

* Left and Right drive axles-to-cross member: 120-150 ft. lbs. (163-203 Nm)

* Axle arm-to-radius arm: 180-240 ft. lbs. (244-325 Nm)

* Coil spring insulator: 30-70 ft. lbs. (41-95 Nm)

* Upper spring retainer: 13-18 ft. lbs. (18-24 Nm)

-----------------------------------------------

Dana 60 Front Axle

Observe the following torques;

* Drive shaft-to-flange: 15-20 ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm)

* Track bar nut and bolt: 160-200 ft. lbs. (217-271 Nm)

* Stabilizer link nut: 20-30 ft. lbs. (27-41 Nm)

* Stabilizer barU-bolt: 50-65 ft. lbs. (68-88 Nm)

* Spindle connecting rod-to-knuckle: 70-100 ft. lbs. (95-136 Nm)

* Front spring U-bolt: 95-100 ft. lbs. (115-135)

Hello ggagne.
Here is the procedure.

1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle.
2. Remove the left tire and wheel assembly.
3. Remove the pinch bolt from the lower intermediate steering shaft
4. Loosen all insulator clamp attaching bolts.
5. Place a jack stand under the center of the rear frame cross member.
6. Remove the rear frame-to-body bolts.
7. Lower the rear of the frame just enough to gain access to the stabilizer shaft.
8. Remove the insulator clamp bolts and the clamps from the frame.
9. Remove the insulators from the stabilizer bar.
10. Remove the stabilizer bar links from the control arms.
11. Pull the stabilizer shaft rearward.

Installation

1. Insert the stabilizer shaft to the left side of the vehicle. Important: DO NOT tighten the stabilizer link nut at this time. The weight of the vehicle must be supported by the control arms such that you can obtain the vehicle design trim heights before tightening the link nut.
2. Loosely install the stabilizer shaft link at the control arm.
3. Install the insulators on to the stabilizer bar.
4. Connect the insulator clamps to the frame.
• Tighten the stabilizer shaft bracket bolts to 48 Nm (35 ft. lbs.) .
5. Raise the frame into position while you guide the steering shaft onto the gear.
6. Install the new frame-to-body attaching bolts.
7. Remove the jack stand.
8. Install the pinch bolt and tighten.
9. Install the left tire and wheel assembly.
10. Lower the vehicle.
11. Support the weight of the vehicle by the control arms.
12. Tighten the stabilizer link nut.
• Tighten the stabilizer shaft link nut to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.)
  

There you are, I hope your job goes well.
Thank you for using FixYa.

KL

The frame rails move in when you remove the crossmember. I put a port a power between the frame rails to remove and install the crossmembers on dodge trucks.

your quad four dosen't have a dog bone. they came on stuff such as 2.8 liters and 3.1 liters.

There called torsion bar mount bushings, and will cost about $34.00 for both of them. Parts Source.

Jack up RH side of truck, crawl under LH side

• 1 Remove nut from torsion bar mount stud that secures the mount to the cross-member. You'll have to feel for it, you won't be able to see it from below.
• 2 Remove bottom two bolts. Easy, they're in plain view from below. Now the mount is free.
• 3 Push up on cross member, remove old mount.
• 4 Insert new mount - push up on cross member, slip mount in between frame and cross member. Drop hole in cross member over the stud.
• 5 Loose assemble nut and two bolts. Torque down once other side is done.

Now over to the passenger side

• 6 Jack up driver side of truck
• 7 Repeat steps 1 and 2
  
• 8 To get the mount out, try pushing up on the cross member, just like the driver side. If it comes out, great. I couldn't get the cross member up high enough on mine. I used a big screwdriver and ripped it out by separating the rubber from the metal plate. It came out in pieces.
• 9 Install new mount. If you didn't have trouble getting the old one out, you probably won't have a problem getting the new one in. As I said, I did. I couldn't raise the cross member high enough to slip it in. Solution: whack 3/8" off the stud. You'll still have plenty left for the nut.
• 10 Reinstall nut & bolts, torque down.
• 11 Remove jack, Torque down drives side.
  

Good luck. The TRW's are one-piece urethane, (I think) and came with a lifetime guarantee. They'll probably outlast the vehicle.

There are four total mounts.

1. Upper engine mount located on the passenger side of the engine. Get this at the dealer, aftermarket, especially Anchor brand are garbage.

2. Lower engine mount, often refered to as a "dog bone" mount because of its shape. This one is located on the lower passenger side. You'll have to remove some splash shields to get to it. Aftermarket is OK.

3. Upper transmission mount, also refered to as a "dog bone" mount. Located under the battery.Aftermarket is OK.

4. Lower transmission mount. Located under the transmission. As with the top engine mount, dealer is better quality.

The two dogbone mounts usualy last a very long time, its the others that fail over time. Especially the upper one.

For the 4 wheel drive system, the comon place is under the vechile near the transfer case. You'll see two tubes coming from the engine compartment running along passanger side frame rail. They then follow the cross member to the transfer case. Right there where they run off the cross member into transfer case is where they normally come off. Sometimes just slipping them on cures it. Other times, you may need to find a way to connect them better. I'ld tell you how I use to do it but it's a real jerry rigged job.
As for the heater and crusie, I have no clue.

Problem I found: Clunk when driving over even small bumps.

If Grand Cherokee is 1999-2004, then check this: Above the differential is a wishbone cross member control arm. The cross member attaches to the frame in front of the rear axle (bolts through rubber bushings), and directly above the differential, at the apex of the cross member, is a ball joint. The ball joint assembly is a flange bolted atop the differential, with three bolts, and the ball joint pin protrudes from the flange through the cross member apex, with a nut atop the pin. Raise the frame slightly, and with a pry bar, pry above the flange, and below the cross member, very near the ball joint. If any motion is detected, then the ball joint is worn from the ball joint socket, or the nut is loose on the ball joint pin. If the nut is tight, then replace the ball joint. 2000 GC part number is 52088808AB, and is available from online sources or dealers. To replace this part, you'll probably need to remove the cross member, as the ball joint pin through the cross member is in a tight location, is tightly wedged into the cross member, and requires a special v-shaped puller to remove the pin from the cross member. If you don't have access to the puller tool, then remove the cross member for this operation. Raise vehicle slightly, under frame, in front of rear wheels. Unbolt the brake line and brake cable retainers from the cross member, then unbolt the flange from atop the differential. Then remove the two frame bolts and manipulate the cross member out of the vehicle, from above the differential.

With the cross member before you, support on blocks, loosen the ball joint nut somewhat, or remove it, and with a beater protective block, sledge out the pin from the cross member. Inspect the rubber bushings at this time. These bushings require an arbor press to remove/install, and the arbor press to install requires a spider so as to not rip the rubber bushing from either the bushing shell or center spool. The press spider is a 4-point tool you can make up from a piece of aluminum.

Bolt the new ball joint flange atop the differential, using blue thread locker, and torque the bolts to 100 ft-lb, cheater pipe useful here.

Replace the cross member to the frame, and install the two frame bolts, finger tight. Pull the member apex down onto the ball joint pin, and run the nut down. Using a box end wrench, hold the pin from rotation while tightening down the nut. Torque the nut to 100 ft-lb. Tighten the frame attachment bolts to 100 ft-lb, and reinstall the brake cable and brake line retainers. Do not over tighten these retainer bolts, as they are passing only through the sheet steel side of the cross member. Take care to not strip the sheet metal threadings. Lower vehicle and remove jack.