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If you're sure the engine is running cool enough check the fuel pressure, low fuel pressure can vapor lock if the engine is hot enough the gas will boil. The boiling point of 87 octane is 181 degrees Fahrenheit although gas is constantly being returned to the tank in order to cool the fuel rail low pressure will not return enough leaving room in the rail for gas to boil. Ignition coils are also known to break down when hot. I hope this helps. Take care.
Box-end wrenchsuitable for your car's bleeder screws.
(An offset head design usually works best) Extra brake fluid (about 1 pint if you are just bleeding)
(3 if you are completely replacing the fluid) 12-inch long section of clear plastic tubing (sized to fit snugly over your car's bleeder screws) Disposable bottle for waste fluid. Brake cleaner. One assistant (to pump the brake pedal).
1. Open the hood and check the level of the brake fluid reservoir.
2.Add fluid as necessary to ensure that the level is at the MAX marking of the reservoir.
3.Do not let the reservoir become empty at any time during the bleeding process.
4. Begin at the corner furthest from the driver and proceed in order toward the driver. (Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.) This will also allow the system to be bled in such a way as to minimize the amount of potential cross-contamination between the new and old fluid. 5. Locate the bleeder screw at the rear of the caliper body (or drum brake wheel cylinder.) (Remove the rubber cap from the bleeder screw) 6. Place the box-end wrench over the bleeder screw. An offset wrench works best since it allows the most room for movement. 7. Place one end of the clear plastic hose over the nipple of the bleeder screw. 8. Place the other end of the hose into the disposable bottle. 9. Place the bottle for waste fluid on top of the caliper body or drum assembly. (Hold the bottle with one hand and grasp the wrench with the other hand) 10. Instruct the assistant to "apply." The assistant should pump the brake pedal three times, hold the pedal down firmly, and respond with "applied." Instruct the assistant not to release the brakes until told to do so. 11. Loosen the bleeder screw with a brief ¼ turn to release fluid into the waste line. The screw only needs to be open for one second or less. (The brake pedal will "fall" to the floor as the bleeder screw is opened. Instruct the assistant in advance not to release the brakes until instructed to do so.) 12. Close the bleeder screw by tightening it gently. 13. Instruct the assistant to "release" the brakes. Note: do NOT release the brake pedal while the bleeder screw is open, as this will **** air back into the system! 14. The assistant should respond with "released." 15. Inspect the fluid within the waste line for air bubbles. 16. Continue the bleeding process until air bubbles are no longer present. Be sure to check the brake fluid level in the reservoir after bleeding each wheel! Add fluid as necessary to keep the level at the MAX marking. (Typically, one repeats this process 5-10 times per wheel when doing a ‘standard' bleed.) 17. Move systematically toward the driver – right rear, left rear, right front, left front - repeating the bleeding process at each corner. Be sure to keep a watchful eye on the brake fluid reservior and Keep it full 18. When all four corners have been bled, spray with brake cleaner and wipe dry with a clean rag. Try to avoid spraying the brake cleaner DIRECTLY on any parts made of rubber or plastic, as the cleaner can make these parts brittle. 19. Test the brake pedal for a firm feel. (Be sure to inspect the bleeder screws and other fittings for signs of leakage. Correct as necessary.) 20.Road Test.
I doubt it's actually boiling over. More than likely you've blown the head gasket on the car and the pistons are pushing compressed air back into the water system and it coming out the bottle. If you continue to drive the car the gasket will deteriorate and the coolant will start to get into the cylinders and oil. At that point you may be looking at crank bearing damage and a warped or cracked head.
the washer pump is located in the bottom of the washer bottle.if you remove the bottle disconnect the washer hose and electrical plug.most of the pumps you just pull it out of the rubber o ring that seals the pump so the fluid won`t run out and holds the pump in place.
The overflow bottle is low. Their is a hot and cold fill line on the plastic holding container and the sensor is picking up a low fluid reading because it is located in the same container.............Hope this helps.
Have system pressure tested when cold and full to top. Pressure test will force coolant out and you will be able to trace the leaks location. Hopefully it's a small hose leak and not a major problem like a blown head gasket or cracked head.
Coolant in 50% concentration goes into the coolant overflow bottle. Windshield wiper fluid into the wiper fluid bottle. Power steering fluid into the power steering fluid bottle. You do not need to add any other fluids to these. Do not add water to the washer fluid bottle for example, if you drive in a climate that would allow it to freeze.
The fans must come on before everything starts boiling. Is there another temp sensor besides the one you replaced? Did you replace it with a switch type rather than a thermal resistor type. The temp sensor should tell the computer to turn on the fans and the computer is supposed to turn on the fan relay and it turns on the fans. If they work with the A/C, that eliminates the computer output, the relay and the fans, and gets back to the temperature sensor.
sometimes adding brake fluid to the power steering pump will stop the leak if its not to bad.you may have to keep adding as it leaks down untill you use about a bottle ,before it stops the leak.
This is the indication for your windscreen washer fluid. If it is full and showing low on the cluster, then the sensor os bad in the bottle. Replace the sensor.
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