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Re: Three attempts to start and sluggish on highway and...
Sounds like low fuel pressure, has the fuel filter ever been replaced? if not replace it and see if that helps, if not have the pressure tested by a shop, u may have a defective fuel pump.
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This sounds like the fuel pump is failing. It will need to be analyzed and tested to be sure. the stalling at highway speed could be fuel starvation and the no start when warm is vapor lock, both point to a fuel pump that is not producing at speck pressure.
Couldn't happen just from replacing timing cover. Now if you replace timing belt/chain then yes it would be sluggish or not run at all. Sound more like you have issue with cold start valve. Also, the accumulator is a likely place to begin, particularly because you say
that it's only the first start that has hard cranking. A
properly-functioning accumulator keeps the fuel system pressurized
enough to open the injectors without a lot of cranking. If pressure
bleeds off due to a poor accumulator, the fuel pumps have to run a while
in order to re-pressurize the system, hence, long cranking times. The quick test is to cycle the
ignition key 3-4 times before you attempt to start the cold motor so
that the pump runs each of those times and is allowed to build up some
fuel pressure before the engine is started. If that test helps, you've
identified a fuel pressure problem, almost certainly the accumulator.
The lockup switch locks the converter when driving at highway speeds. You can try replacing it, as an attempt at a cheap fix, but it sounds like your transmission is getting weak. There are different clutches and bands in your transmission for different gears, which do wear out over time.
Could be a handful of possibilities:
When was last service - tune up and filters changed? Sluggish on highway suggests possible fuel filter. For the record filters, plugs etc should be changed every 30k. From what you're telling us, you've been running on borrowed time.
could be a few things the start up could be the idle air control sensor (my first thought), the coolant temp sensor for the computer might be a secondary thought for the engine being cold if the computer thinks its warm. that would be the first 2 places i would start without a check engine light or code to reference
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