518 4X4 DODGE TRANSMISSION AUTOMATIC PROBLEM

Traditionally, it is located on the transmission body. Metal clad with two pin or wires. it works like a pushbutton switch.
However, new cars do not have that anymore especially auto or CVT trannys. Instead the switch is incorporated in the "gear position switch" assembly. Some are located on the transmission, some are located and the gear lever. This switch also help to show the driver and the transmission control unit what position the gear lever is at.

mounted to right side inner fender under the hood.

Hi again,

Dodge RAM 3spd auto transmissions (RWD) available for the 3.9L engine were:

3-Speed: A500 (42RH)

3-Speed: A727 (36RH), Sportsman Model

If you can't find your model code on the transmission casing, the vehicle build plate (in the engine bay) should have the factory drivetrain code stamped on it.

Failing this, Chrysler/Dodge should have your transmission details on their database.

If you end up replacing the entire transmission, you might as well upgrade to the improved 4-speed. Most Chrysler/Dodge RAM transmissions were a universal fit, but some had stronger internal components to withstand the higher torque of the larger capacity engines.

I've located a link which has more technical detail on the transmission:

http://www.scribd.com/doc/228727/Dodge-Trucks-TechTran-A500-42RH-A518-46RH-A618-47RH-Service-Manual


Cheers,


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Most of the problems are caused by the converter. You must replace the converter when rebuilding or replaceiong the transmission. I knoe because I have several and that is the main problem, it goes out and damages the trans. I go with a heavey duty or bullit converter. I have several dodge rams with well over 300,000 miles anddo a lot of plowing and towing. I would order a heavy duty over the internet, not use the standard. Check with www.transmissioncenter.net or http://tpiconverters.com/

I don't know what you got going there, but most people would have shot that truck in the head along time ago, you must a lot of patience. 1, 10 to 12 liters is for a complete rebuild, you are only dumping out none, you should not have to ad any oil. Just check it with the dipstick.2 you have 2 oil coolers in the line, how did you manage that? in out in out? 3, Get the thing up there in line with the engine, move it in close, line up the bolt holes, get a couple bolts started, keep the tranny supported, so far so good, put in a cross member while it is still loose, don't tighten anything up yet, you are still aligning, get the flywheel spun around till a bolt lines up, remove 3 or 4 spark plugs and it will spin easier, put in bolt, then spin it around again to the next bolt and put it in, get all of them in before tightening them up, Now you can start tightening up all your bolts, cross members, drive shafts, hook up he shifter, electrics, speedometer, etc. You don't want any oil leaks, do not take out the torque converter, you will upset the seal. If it doesn't start, your neutral safety switch is out of align. You will have to loosen it up and move it just a fraction till the starter clicks on. Don't forget the spark plugs! Hope this helps.

Put in a can of Lucas Transmission Slip. This stuff fixed my 18 wheel in 100 miles and has lasted 50K since.

U MUST remove the remove the drive shaft or u will damage the trans, this is true of all modern cars and trucks, have been doing this 35 years and am 100% sure on this.

look at the starter bolting the location on bell housing differ depending where manufac...
plus start counting splines on the shafts..

you may find the valves in the gearbox are sticking

48,000 miles or 48 months
Maintenance Service Schedule 2007 dodge
Change engine oil and engine oil filter
Rotate tires
Lubricate drivetrain / steering / suspension
grease fittings (if equipped)-except Powerwagon
Lubricate front drive shaft fitting
(2500 / 3500, 4X4 & Powewagon)
Lubricate tie rod end links - Powerwagon
Check automatic transmission fluid level
Check manual transmission fluid level
Check the coolant level, hoses and clamps
Inspect exhaust system
Inspect brake hoses and brake linings
Inspect the CV joints/U-joints (if equipped) and
front suspension components
Check spare tire for proper pressure & correct
stowage
Lubricate outer tie rod ends 2500/3500 4X4

51,000 miles or 51 months
Maintenance Service Schedule
Change engine oil and engine oil filter
Lubricate drivetrain / steering / suspension
grease fittings (if equipped)-except Powerwagon
Lubricate front drive shaft fitting
(2500/3500, 4X4 & Powerwagon)
Lubricate tie rod end links - Powerwagon
Check automatic transmission fluid level
Check manual transmission fluid level
Check the coolant level, hoses and clamps
Inspect exhaust system
Inspect brake hoses
Inspect the CV joints/U-joints (if equipped) and
front suspension components