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Smooth wheel on the timing belt rattles butnut in middle is tight
Smooth wheel on the timing belt rattles by hand but nut in the middle is tight, this is the rotating wheel below the alternator and above the AC unit that the outside of the timing belt rides on. Does this mean the bushing in the middle of the wheel is shot and it needs to be replaced?
Timing belt is riding half on/half off the smooth wheel. Is the smooth wheel supposed to be firmly installed and not movable by hand?
Does repairing this only involve loosening the nut in the middle, replacing the wheel and tightening the nut, or is it more complicated than that?
Is there a trick to ensuring the alternator doesn't get canted when tightening it? THe alternator has a bolt on the left as a tightening bolt and a bolt that runs front to back that seems to adjust the tension the alternator puts on the timing belt. However, it seems that the more you tighten the alternator against the belt, it starts to **** a little clockwise and throw off the alignment of the alternator wheel with the others.
Any suggestions?
How do you know when the timing belt is tight enough?
Re: smooth wheel on the timing belt rattles butnut in...
The timing belt is not on the outside of engine. What you are describing might be the belt tensioner. The bolts you speak of in alternator are the mounting bolts. If the "smooth" wheel is vibrating, then replace the wheel. That is the belt tensioner.
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The wheel might not be on straight. You should tighten the lug nuts by hand. then lightly snug the lug nuts with the lug wrench. You have to tighten them across from each other until all nuts are snug. Tighten lug nut 1, then 3, 5, 2 and 4. Then repeat the process several times, tightening more each time until they are very tight. This will get rid of the humming noise only. The rattling noise might be caused by an exhaust heat shield hitting the exhaust pipe.
check that the wheel nuts are tight and that the stud holes in the rim are not worn. Check that you have the correct wheel nuts for the rim . Check and adjust wheel bearings.
place the hand brake on firmly--chock other wheels . loosen off the wheel nuts . jack the vehicle up finish removing the wheel nuts . pull the wheel of the studs . fit replacement spare wheel onto studs . do wheel nuts up as tight as possible . lower jack so that the wheel is on the ground . finish tightening the wheel nuts . Replace the jack and wrench in the boot along with the flat tyre . Take the flat tyre to a tyre shop for a puncture repair and have it fixed immediately. Most "people" leave the repair to a later time when they will need a spare that they do not have .The tyre change process is fully described in the owners hand book for your vehicle.
check whether you have a loose steering belt. Open the bonnet and go by the belts side and check the tension of the steering belt which is very easy to check as it is the one fitted closer to the radiator front .If it is loose then tight it by using a 12mm ring spanner and loose the nut of the tensioner which is lower of the power steering pulley in front of the timing belt cover and by using a T-10 tool turn the bolt which is behind the tensioner and easy to see,until the belt is tight.After do so remember to tight the nut of the tensioner and start the car.
There is a 10 bolt on the left which does the adjusting it is behind a "U" shaped alignment washer midway down the stud that you took the nut off (that held the middle of the 3 cover holdowns). This bolt goes through the left alternator 12 nut/stud and you will also have to take out the 14 bolt on the right. Turn the bolt clockwise and it will take the tension off the belt so you can get it off the pulley.
To get the alternator back on point the 12 stud at an angle to receive the left side of the alternator while keeping it against the engine removal flange and in the "U". Drop the alternator into position on the right and put the large 14 bolt through. Now put the 12 nut onto the left stud and count how many times you drop the nut. You can tape it to a screwdriver and get it into position where you can get a quarter turn on it.
Replace the belt (if new you will need to support the engine and take off the left side mount) and tighten the 10 until the belt has 1/2" play at the middle. Not too tight but not loose enough to move the pulley by hand. Tighten the 12 (left) and 12 (right) and replace the wires and covers. Get bandaids for your wounds.
front bearing wheel nut holding axle on? 115 foot pounds and hammer in or crimp the nut after tightening. ^ like shape into slot of axle this locks the axle. for the wheel bearing for rear wheel drive the nut should be tightened by hand till tight 15 foot pounds then backed off 1/4 turn, be sure there is plenty of grees in the bearing cup before tighting nut be sure to line up slot for key with rotor on the rotor should turn free and should not have any slop in it, put the wheel on it and put the nuts on and try wiggleing the wheel back and forth if any movement readuast nut. If it is to tight it will over heat outter wheel bearing, also be sure there is greese in inner wheel bearing.
have you checked the wheel nuts are tight and its not the wheel rattling becuase ball joints usally bang and klang but it would be wise to get it checked anyway
There should be a diagram on the fan shroud showing you how the belt should go on. Thrse is a tensioner that holds the belt tight It is about as big around as a large doughnut and has a smooth surface where the belt has been riding on it. It has a nut in the middle of it. Use a socket and a breaker bar or ratchet on it to compress the spring in it so that you can put the belt on easy. Then slowly release the tensioner to tighten the belt. good luck
There is a tensioner wheel that keeps the belt tight. Use a wrench on the nut in the middle of that wheel to rotate the arm and loosen and remove the belt and to put on the new belt. There should be a diagram on the radiator showing the routing of the belt.
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