1992, 4.9L f150 has no spark. I have a new distributor, computer, ecc, coil, wires, plugs, checked fuses, cleaned connectors, new relays, have 12v at the coil, good ground and no spark at all? help.

Mike, Check for diagnostic codes. Check fuses/relays,wires/plugs for pinched,damage or corrosion. Could be a lot of things like distributor armature, cap, rotor, stator, ICM, coil,spark plugs,wires, make sure ground is good to distributor. Use the attached forum links,instruction, guides to help diagnose ignition spark problems, Good luck
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No spark replaced all ignition parts 1990 F150 Ford F150 Forum Community...
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It sounds like an ignition module, But first we have to check for fuel and spark when it dies. When it dies pull a plug wire, stick an old spark plug in and lay it on something metal so it has a good ground. Crank the engine and see if there is spark. If not, then it's an ignition problem.

For the sake of completeness, here's the full no-start Troubleshooting Guide for the 2001 6 cylinder 3.5L MFI Mitsu Diamante, but the problem with your car is line item #6 - the ECC (Engine Control Computer) is shorted/dead. Without an ECC, the Diamante will (a) get no spark, since the ignition timing comes from the computer, and (b) get no fuel, since the fuel injectors are operated by the computer as well. The engine will turn over, since running the starter motor is a non-computer controlled matter of a correctly functioning ignition switch, a charged battery, and good wiring to a functional starter motor/solenoid, but will never start.
The clue pointing directly to the ECC failure is the blowing ECC fuses. These fuses are blowing to tell you that the ECC is shorted dead.
Since the ECC is expensive, exhaustively check out all other possible sources of the problems, but with so few problems causing loww of both spark and fuel, combined with the blown ECC fuses pointing directly to the ECC, it seems that the ECC is the only culprit.
Here's a used 2001 Mitsu Diamante ECC at Ebay for $175.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270828804340+&item=270828804340&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466


Priority Action Part Type Cause
1 Inspect Choke - Stuck or Improperly Functioning Choke.
2 Inspect Fuel Filter - Clogged or Dirty Fuel Filter.
3 Inspect Fuel Pump Relay - Faulty Fuel Pump Relay.
4 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator - Faulty Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator.
5 Inspect Fuel Pump - Low Fuel Pressure.
6 Inspect Engine Control Computer - Incorrect Operating Information Being Delivered and Sent From The EEC.
7 Inspect Fuel Pump Strainer - Clogged or Dirty Fuel Pump Strainer.
8 Inspect Ignition Switch - Improperly Connected or Faulty Ignition Switch.
9 Inspect Battery - Battery Discharged or Faulty.
10 Inspect Battery Cable - Coroded, Broken, Shorted or Poorly Connected Battery Cable.
11 Inspect Solenoid - Starter Solenoid Faulty.
12 Inspect Starter - Starter Motor Faulty.
13 Inspect Wireset - Worn or Damaged Spark Plug Wires.
14 Inspect Ignition Coil - Faulty Ignition Coil.
15 Inspect Distributor Cap - Loose, Cracked or Worn Distributor Cap.
16 Inspect Spark Plugs - Incorrectly Gapped or Fouled Spark Plug(s).
17 Inspect Distributor Rotor - Loose, Cracked or Worn Distributor Rotor.
18 Inspect Fuel Tank - Fuel Tank Empty.
19 Inspect Carburetor - Worn, Faulty or Damaged Carburetor.

The fuel pump strainer is a sock-like strainer in the fuel tank on the input side of the fuel pump designed to protect the fuel pump by straining out any debris in the tank (similar to the way that the fuel filter protects the engine/fuel injectors/fuel pressure regulator).

The most likely cause is you have a bad distributor. The coil is inside the distributor and when it gets hot, it quits creating spark. The testing to verify this is a little complicated and takes a little know how.
To test the coil in the distributor first disconnect the Automatic Shut Down (ASD) relay (located on the drivers side on the firewall in a group of three relays, it is the middle one) and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) (on the drivers side in the front of engine compartment to the right of the air filter housing) connectors.

Next, remove the distributor cap and connect a grounded jumper wire near the coil tower. This is to check for spark jumping from the coil.

Jumper pin 30 to pin 87 at the ASD relay.

Check for 12 volts to the Dark Green/Orange wire at the single wire connector at the distributor. This wire feeds the positive side of the coil.

5. Connect a 12v test light to B+. With the probe end of the test light, momentarily tap the Black/Gray wire at pin 11of the PCM. This action should cause the coil to fire. If there is no spark out of the coil tower during this step, the distributor has failed and needs to be replaced. If there is spark from the coil tower check all powers and grounds at the PCM.
Hope this helps. Good luck!!

Hi, Hope I can help you.
I do not know how you have checked for spark, but lets start from the beginning.
Lets start with an ignition systems check.
1. I want you to remove the high voltage coil wire. ( That's the wire in the center of the distributor cap.) Using a good pair of insulated pliers. I want you to hold it about 1/4 inch from a good engine ground. Now you will need a bit of help from a partner. Get them to turn the key and crank the engine. You should see a bright blue and well defined spark. Ok, If you have spark I want you to slowly move the coil wire away from the engine ground. As you do this I want you to pay attention to the coil tower. (The coil tower is where the other end of the coil wire is attached.) What your looking for is arcing and sparking at the coil tower. If this happens then you need to replace the coil with a new one. If this does not happen then your coil is working fine, and we will have to move on.
Note if you do not get spark from the coil wire replace the coil.

2. Ok if you have spark now we have find out if the spark is making it to the spark plugs. How are we going to do this? By checking the rotor, distributor cap, spark plug wires and spark plugs.First lets remove the distributor cap. This will allow use to inspected the rotor and the distributor cap. What your looking for is, cracks, carbon tracks and wear at the tip of the rotor. On the distributor ,look inside the cap for cracks, carbon tracks and wear on the terminals. If you find any of this replace the distributor cap and rotor. ( Note if you have any doubt of the condition of the rotor or the cap replace them.) Next lets check your spark plug wires. Lets pull off one of the spark plug wires from the spark plug side. Now inspect the wire connection for a white crusty powder. If you find crust replace your wires. Now you should check all of them the same way, but if even one has corrosion replace them all. You are going to have to inspect the wire its self . Going down the whole length of the wire. Holes cracks burn Marks and other damage. Once again if you find any damage replace them all.
I hope this will help you and good luck to all the read this FixYa
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the crankshaft position sensor located between flywheel and trans is where the power source for the coil comes from. I suggest you need change that

With a volt meter,check for positive 12V on the coil.

post to body metal ground when the KEY is at on position.

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Check alarm for ignition and/or start cut off.

Bad relay on alarm cut off (Bosch type relay)

Check out your "fuel cut-off switch" located by the windshield washer tank behind the driver's side wheel-well panel in the trunk. It's a small box with a push-button at the top. If the button is "soft" when you push it, that's probably your problem. Replace the unit by removing the washer fluid tank first. The box simply plugs in. Probably about $ 100. I replaced three in my Probe. They rot out, and the car simple dies.

Check if you still getting fuel and sparks, two items need to keep the car running. Check fuses and fuel pump relay, if needing new relays go to the junk yard and get couple of them for nothing. Checking making sure you getting fuel and fuel pump working properly, unplug the the main coil wire to distributor so the car wont start we just want the engine just to turn over. under the hood, locate fuel filter, disconnect the line to or from it, wrap the bottom of the hose with old clothe firmly and to remember to point the house downward away from your face so it wont splash at you. and have a friend turn ignition over just like starting, see if the fuel come out with good pressure. if fuses and relay check out, your crank sensor may be bad, being 91' strong possibility. crank sensor send info to computer telling to send fuel to your injectors. For sparks, make sure you plug the main wire to distributor back. pull one plug wire and get spare plug, plug it and ground the plug and have a friend turn the engine over and see if you getting sparks, do not touch the plug, big shock. No sparks, check the coil if you getting 12v, if yes, than your cam sensor is faulty. The cam sensor work just like the crank sensor but telling the computer to send sparks to the distributor. Common for older European cars, crank and cam sensor tend to become faulty after years of service due to age and heat abuse.

it's the coil pack and also check the ignition module connecter and make sure everything is plugged under the hood