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just make sure you get the right steel plate for your bumper to hold the winch on or it will rip your bumper off the first time you use it make sure it is bolted sucure
You will need to grind the rivets out and remove the old mount, you can use one of 3 methods to attach a replacement. 1. Drill out the holes, get captive nuts welded into the chassis rail and use high tensile bolts to attach the mount. 2. Find someone with the correct equipment to re-rivet the mount 3. Weld the mount on, This may or may not be possible depending on the vehicle regulations in your area.
there are two types of crx currently the gen 1 built thru 87, and the gen 2 from 88 thru 91. unless you count the Delsol as a CRX which it is but is'nt but has very simular parts.
Now the seatbelts you are asking about are either door mounted or chassis mounted. If they are door mounted you will need the factory mounted bolts from the doors of a factory 88 thru 91 crx and modified door panels to accept seatbelt as well as the fact that since the door is only a half door you will have to contened with ducking under the seatbelt to exit the car due to the fact that the seat belt will now be connected to the door instead of the chassis to ensure safty of the driver and passenger, Unless you were to fabricate a plate that could hold the top portion of the seatbelt attached to the door.
Now if it is a factory chassis mounted seatbelt look you want then now you have to think about bolt placement and look very cautiously at the mount to the chassis on the shoulder side to see if the bracket will interchange without any major modification but at this point it might be best to get a 5 point Simpson harness instead.
Anything is possible as long as you fallow thru with the thought of the safty of yourself and any other passenger you may have, Either way you will have some welding to do and some well thought out plans to accomplish your goal, Nothing is Impossible, unless you want to plan a "perfect" vacation out of state.
This might be an option if you want to keep the engine. If you can get to this area without pulling the engine and IF the block is thick enough, you can have a stainless steel bracket welded to the block to replace the mounting holes that are broken. It takes a bit of fabrication to make--usually a good vise, torch and a hammer is all you'll need. I have a Henry J with a 348 chevy engine in it. The engine is unique and i wanted to keep it so I had to do so welding on it for an A/C bracket and Chrysler center mounted motor supports. Stainless steel welding rods (308 rods) work great when welding cast iron blocks. I've even repaired cracked piston bores with them.
Remove interior Torx bolt (T30) using 1/4"-Torx-bit insert and extension.
NOTE: If necessary, use magnet to remove bolt.
Disconnect multi-function harness connectors for headlights.
Turn headlights -2- toward center of vehicle and remove from chassis toward front.
Installing Installation is reverse of removal, noting the following:
Adjust dimension -a- via plastic bolt at new headlight.
NOTE: Determine dimension -a- at plastic bolt of old headlight, when being replaced
Engage headlight in area of center of vehicle in guide -2- via pin -1-.
Always align headlight according to contours of chassis (gap dimensions) and secure.
Adjust headlight after installing.
Tightening torque
Component
Nm
Headlights to lock carrier
6
Repair Kit For Headlight Housing, Installing
NOTE:
Headlight mounting tabs that have broken off can be replaced by installing the repair kit. Complete replacement of the headlight is therefore not necessary.
Different repair sets are available for the left and the right headlight.
Remove headlight with broken mounting tab.
Remove remains of the broken mounting tab -1- at location marked with the arrow.
Place mounting tab -2- of repair set onto the edge (arrow) of the headlight housing and secure the tab with two screws -3- from rear.
hi best advice is to look at how the mounting is secured to chassis and usually a steel bracket which securec to engine ? if so then i would support engine under neath with hydraulic trolly jack and block thenundo the chassis mounting bolts/nuts ? then just gently lift engine slightly enough to take weight off mounting ? then if you remove bolts from bracket to engine fixing so the mounting will remove complete with bracket and mounting block after raising engine again to ease removal then renew mount block to bracket but do not tighten bolts/nuts untill you have repositioned into place again on engine then resecure bracket to engine 1st this will leave a little movement on mount as you lower engine down again and locate bolt holes? hope this helps not too difficult diy iob just have a little patience
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