No power to the coil or to the electric fuel pump. all relays and fuseable links good. the truck does have a remote start.

I'm not positive the wiring is the same for trucks and vans, but you should have a yellow wire for both relays that go to a fuseable link off the starter solenoid. The key switch powers the EEC relay on, and the computer grounds the fuel pump relay on.
You may want to check the fuseable links and power coming from the key switch.

Not sure I am following your story, but here goes.
The fuel pump relay gets power from a fuseable link at the starter solenoid and from the EEC relay. When the fuel pump is grounded by the computer it sends power to the inertia switch then to the pumps and controls.
If you are not getting main power to the relay the fuseable link (yellow wire) is fried. If the pump relay is not engaging, the EEC relay could be toast (red wire). If you are getting power out of the relay but not to the pumps, the inertia switch may be tripped.

There is a red and white wire feeding the fuel pump relay from a 30 amp fuse. Both the shutdown relay and the fuel pump relay are grounded by the PCM, so if the fuel pump relay is grounded it should be "on" and providing a direct link from the pump to that fuse.
You should have battery voltage on that 30 amp wire before the relay and then on the dark green and black wire going to the pump.
If you don't have battery voltage coming from the 30 amp fuse, the problem could be before the fuse.
That 30 amp fuse is hot all the time, so it is powered by a fuseable link coming off the battery.

ok, lets start at the beginning. why did the fuseable link burn up ? you have some type of electrical overload in the system. i bet ya that fuel pump is shorting out

Theres a few more checks But i'm sure you checked the fuel pump fuse already ..Use a test light and check to see if the fuel pump relay is getting power from the supply and from the Ignition feed. should be a schematic on the underside of the relay..if no power from the feeds check for a blown or rotted fuseable link or a maxi fuse..good luck

Good evening Michael.
The fuse you are looking for is behind the plastic cover on the firewall on the right side. It may be a little disguised in a fuse holder. It is very near the battery junction box pins and fuse links. It's a 10 amp fuse and it supplies power to the relay for the fuel pump.
Hope this cures your problem.
Thank you for using FixYa!

yes the the ignition and fuel pump are usually on the same fuse or circuit, check your fuses, if you can get wiring diagram of the two circuits it may show you if there is afusible link, they are a bit more of a pain to find, in the miles of loom in a vehcile, but they are usually located close to the battery or the fuse panel. most of the time they are grouped together with the other fusible links. Does this truck have the duel tanks before and after the axle, make sure the switch is working corectly too.

I am looking at alldata , the schematics for the fuel system. I see a fuse in the fuse block(10 amp) that comes from the fuel pump relay to the pump. I see a fuseable link (link H)that goes through a oil pressure sending unit. I would get a test light and test the oil pressure sending unit, the inline fuseable link and the relay. If still no power check the connection at the pump and then work backwards testing the harness.

I checked all of the fuseable links and they were all good. Next I decided to check all the power wires to the ECM and also the grounds from a wiring diagram because the Mil is controlled by the ecm and the bulb was good. The ecm is located behind the glove box. Bingo, the orange wire was only reading 3-5 volts at the ECM, but 12.5 volts after the fuseable link at the underhood fuse block (passenger side firewall). I ran a temp wire directly from after the fuseable link to the orange wire at the ecm and the ecm turned back on and the Mil or "check engine soon" light came on too. The truck started up and has never run smoother.

Note that at first the truck just stalled out and I could restart it right away with no error codes. Eventually the stalling became more frequent with longer reset times required. Once it threw a "code 54" and I thought it was fuel related as each time the gas stopped and I could still start the truck with gas poured into the TB. Ignition ok. My fuel pump turned on and ran if I tested it. I even checked the pressure regulator and the fuel filter to no avail.The orange wire that powers up the ecm is technically part or the fuel pump relay circuit as it also feeds the fuel pump relay 12.5 volts all the time. The thin orange wire from the fuse block is joined to two other thin orange wires in the large group of wires that heads to the ecm along the firewall behind the engine. I had to dig it out of the many wires to find it and remove a lot of tape. It is amazing to me that this one little orange wire could cause so much grief and be so hard to track down. I could not have afforded to take this problem to the Dealer.

I had this problem and thought it was the coil. I caried a spare till it happened again and it was not the coil. I thought it was the fuel pump and tested it and it was not the electric fuel pump. I thought mayby a relay going bad, wrong. It was a bad fuseable link. There is about 5 of them by the computer next to the battery and i changed it and never had the problem again! Good luck!
Larry