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Open the cabinet and look at the circuit board. There should be one near the power switch. There may be two or three nearby. On older Peavey's they are mounted in fuse holders.and are easily replaceable. On some newer equipment the fuses are soldered to the circuit board.
If you find a blown fuse be sure to replace with same type.
Anything can go bad, but to my knowledge circuit breakers seldom do. If you have a test light, pull the circuit breaker and probe both terminals for a power signal, with the key on. One terminal should show voltage with key on. If not, check the power distribution box for a blown maxi-fuse, or the wiring from that box to your fuse panel. BTW, no, no relays are in the window circuit. So if the circuit breaker has power to it, put it back in and check for power on the driver's door master switch-one wire on the master should have voltage with key on. If no hot wire to the master switch, check inside the door openings for a broken wire. If you do have one hot wire there. check the power windows ground-the ground wire for the power windows originates at the master switch and goes back into the cabin to a nearby ground. Put one lead of the test light on the hot wire (key on), and probe the ground terminal at the master switch-if your ground is good, the test light will light up. If the ground is lost, no light. Check for a broken ground wire in the door opening, and/or find the ground and see if it is bad. If the master switch has a hot wire and a good ground wire, replace the master switch.
this is a sign of a broken or punctured heater radiator which is located in the car cabinet that causes coolant to leak. you should also have noticed that the coolant level becomes low. you can either replace it or have it disconnected by removing the hoses that feed it with hot coolant, then you will have no heater inside the car cabinet.
Either power is not getting to the switch-check for an ignition fuse or a fusible link just off the battery-or power is not being transmitted through the switch-in that case, replace the electrical part of the ignition switch.
There should always be a hot wire going to the switch-it is hot at all times, just waiting to be sent somewhere through the switch to run, accessories, or start. First check if you have power to the switch. If not, may need to consult a wiring diagram, but likely a fusible link near the battery has failed.
With the switch disconnected there should be NO power at the bulb sockets. Somewhere there is a "hot" wire which is making contact with the brake light wiring. Using a multimeter start at the sockets and begin checking the hot wire for power. Look at the wiring also to see if you can locate where the wire is touching another live hot wire. With the switch disconnected the problem should be between the switch connector and the bulb sockets.
one fuse for all, check power at switches to verify switches have power, then check for power on switch in different positions,one wire hot for down,one hot for up,and one hot at all times, if you have it in all wires replace motor
Try jumping the starter solenoid (between small terminal and the positive side) to see if it starts, if so replace selenoid; if not check to see if small wire is hot(someone will havfto hold the key in start position for you); not hot got broken or blown fuse some where.
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