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well lets see you say new wires plugs and a coil pack this is a 4 cylinder truck lets start here the throttle position sensor when you press on the gas the condition starts to get worse then it straightens out when in park and gets to almost like nothing is wrong when your driving during the acceleration part from idle at a light this could be it, you could have a broken E G R valve vacuum line that looses vacuum till you increase it by more gas pedal then it straightens out your mass air flow could be done also I'm hoping that you did not put dielectric grease on your wires in big amounts because you said it was like that before you did the changes noted you don't see an oil leak this will jump the spark + from the plug wire to the head causing the missing check what's mentioned here and post back please remember I'm not there so I can not see it myself and I need you to tell me everything you can the whole scoop/check engine light on/smoking/ etc. please check all your electrical connections from the battery to the starter from the battery to the power distribution box this includes fuses looseness for dried up lithium grease to dirt and corrosion/oxidation the truck is now 13 years old (released in 2002 in the fall) carbon conductive grease is the choice here for all electrical contacts and plugs everything must be cleaned and greased this is a tune -up for the electrical system that never ever gets done post back and I'll take it from there to get to the bottom of it but even if you do find one of the things that I listed to be the problem still do the electrical cleaning the truck will run better with improved mpg's all cars & trucks are computer controlled and work by sensors sending voltage and pulse's back to the computer for it to optimize running conditions the carbon conductive grease with a cleaning will keep it at 100% voltage transfer back to the E C M and stop unwanted breakdowns you'll feel it in the gas pedal it will get very stiff like it was when the truck was brand new good luck Stephen
Most cars now days have plugs that last 100,000 miles however they do need to be changed sooner due to the electrode stretching and the gap increasing thus causing a miss or poor performance, Spark plug manufactures sell all types of replacement plugs this is to save you money by telling you what I recommend on plugs.There are many plugs on the market called split fire plugs and their prices range from $4.00 each up to $14.00 each however these plugs do no better than the recommended plugs from the manufacture, with one exception Platinum plugs last longer. However never buy the expensive plugs unless you are burning oil and if you live in a state that you have to have emmison tag to get a new tag for your plates your wasting your time and money to install these expensive plugs. So always buy the plugs from the manufacture and do not buy after market plugs. Also when changing Plugs change the wires or you will damage the plug wires when you change the spark plugs. So replace the wires. Do to the high voltage on the newer cars use dielectric grease on each end of the new wire coat the inners boot of the plug wire so that there is no voltage leak between the wire and engine block, a dirty plug will cause leakage and make the car run rough and miss and could damage the engine. Put the dielectric grease on both ends and make sure it does not touch the tip of the plug or the tip of the coil it is connected to.
WHAT DO YOU MEAN SKIPS? ARE YOU SAYING THAT IT MISSES WHEN DRIVING ALL THOUGH YOU REPLACED THE PLUGS ROTOR YOU MUST DO THE CAP TO IF THE GAP IS TO FAR FOR THE ROTOR TO HIT THE CONTACTS ON THE CAP AS THE MOTOR RPM'S INCREASE THE ROTOR IS SPINNING AND IF THAT GAP IS TO WIDE 1000'S OF AN INCH IT WILL NOT MAKE CONTACT AND MISS AT HIGHER RPM'S LOOK AT THE CONTACTS ON THE INSIDE OF THE CAP YOU WILL SEE CARBON BUILD UP ON THEM AND CLEANING THIS WILL NOT HELP DURING IGNITION IT'S BURNING AWAY THE CONTACT SO AFTER YOU CLEAN THEM THE GAP IS FURTHER AWAY THEN BEFORE BUY A NEW CAP AND IF THIS IS STILL AN ISSUE AFTER THAT IF THE TRUCK'S MOTOR IS A HIGH MILEAGE ONE (100,000 OR MORE) THE PICK UP COIL IN THE DISTRIBUTOR IS THE CULPRIT HERE AND SHOULD BE CHANGED MAKE SURE ALL CONNECTORS ARE CLEAN AND NOT BROKEN OR YOUR GETTING VOLTAGE LEAKS THIS WILL CAUSE A MISS TO USE CARBON CONDUCTIVE GREASE NOT DIELECTRIC AND DON'T USE ALOT EITHER JUST A DAB /SMALL DOT WILL HELP ON THE ELECTRICAL PLUGS AS FOR THE SPARK PLUGS TO MUCH DIELECTRIC GREASE WILL GET HOT AND RUN DOWN THE PLUG/S BRIDGING + TO - AND A MISS WILL HAPPEN HERE'S A COUPLE OF PHOTO'S FOR YOU
THE COIL AT THE TOP YOU MIGHT HAVE THE OTHER BARREL KIND NEXT IS THE PICKUP COIL IN THE DISTRIBUTOR AND THE CAP THE UNDERSIDE IS WHAT I WAS EXPLAINING EARLIER THOSE CONTACTS GOOD LUCK AND POST BACK IF PROBLEMS PERSIST AND BE SPECIFIC THIS IS IMPORTANT ABOUT WHAT YOU DID REMEMBER I'M NOT THERE WITH YOU AT THE TRUCK AND I CAN'T LOOK AT IT MYSELF SO I'M RELYING ON YOU FOR THE BEST INFORMATION TO GET TO THE SOLUTION FOR YOU O.K.
The camshaft position sensor, it is on the passenger side in the front on the engine block, it will have a grey connector attached.
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove 10mm bolt and remove camshaft sensor. Unplug sensor, apply dielectric grease to new sensor and plug in, apply a small
amount of grease to o-ring, replace into block and tighten bolt. Reconnect battery cable....that's it, your done.
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Some dielectric grease can actually insulate and cause a bigger problem. Clean everything up and use tuner cleaner from an electronics store. If that fails to work, you will need to actually identify the wire(s) that aren't making contact, remove them from the plug and repair them. Often the problem is not at the connection end but at the place where the wire is connected to the connector. Also check and make sure all the pins are straight.
I've done alot of research on this problem and from what I found GM is aware of the problem...it is very common in this model...however there is little that can be done...I myself was replacing sockets about every two weeks that had melted. I tried dielectric grease, different bulbs, and even modifying the high beam type socket so it would fit the low beam bulb hoping it would handle the heat. However nothing worked. Finally I decided to bypass the socket and cut it off and replace it with simple spade connectors on the wire that fit the bulb connections. I then packed the back of the bulb with dielectric grease. Haven't had a problem since...Hope this helps.
Get some electronic parts cleaner from radio shack or a electronic parts store, remove each glow plug terminal and spray liberally and reinstall with dielectric grease, this may not work, hate to say that, but you may have to replace the wiring loom to the glow plugs, they are not the best quality wires, they other issues may be related to corrosion too, try the cleaner and dielectric grease has solved a lot of problems for me in various cars. good luck
The most likely problem is that coil pack is bad these two are paired on the same coil so replace the 3/5 coil pack if you let it keep going it will damage the other coils or the diode plate which costs another $75.00 Buy From GM not aftermarket. Also get dielectric grease to put on the boots of the plug wires both ends