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I have a meter that belonged to someone else and i need to clear their numbers off so i can get a accurate reading on mine when i check them for myself
I need to clear it all off as if it is new for me to use for myself
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the first thing that you should always check is the battery and the starter connection.An excessive resistance of your high amperage circuit is an overlooked problem that can cause your volts to drop in your batteries. Check to see if the cables are corroded, damaged or loose.The connections will need to be connected if you begin to notice that your battery is losing voltage. If you are using an ohmmeter, you may not be getting an accurate reading for your battery. This is because all that this meter will measure is continuity. It does not measure its ability to be able to handle a high amp current load. There are ways around this to be able to get an accurate read on your battery.
A Voltage drop test is the most accurate ways to test the connection on your battery. You will not have to disassemble anything, so it can be done quickly. Get your digital volt meter to test the voltage drop once you have successfully created a load in the circuit that will need to be tested. If your circuit or the connection has too much resistance, then some of your voltage is going flow right on through your digital volt meter. This will give you a voltage reading.
There are multiple ways to test fuel injectors. The quickest is with an ohm meter, but it's less accurate than using more sophisticated equipment. With an ohm meter connected to the terminals of the injector itself, the meter should read about 14 ohms. Also, you'll need a test light to check the circuits going to them. With a test light connected to ground, disconnect all fuel injectors and crank the engine. One terminal at each injector connector should turn the light on. With the test light connected to the positive battery terminal, crank the engine again and check to see that there is a flashing light at the opposite terminal.
What sort of problem are you having that you want to test the injectors?
if you have access to an olm meter, unplug connector and probe each terminal on the connector (check across connector terminal) if no reading, there is an open wire in circuit. trace loom as far back as possible, may be easier to remove seat. most often it will be at the point loom is stressed the most when seat slides back and fourth. IMPORTANT---unhook battery before you work on airbag systems-- hope this helps
I DON'T KNOW OF ANY CODES THAT TELL YOU TO CLEAN THE THROTTLE BODY. THE LIGHT WON'T GO OUT BY ITSELF UNTILL MANY STARTS AFTER A PROBLEM IS REPAIRED. IT MUST BE CLEARED WITH A SCAN TOOL. FIND A REPUTABLE GARAGE, TELL THEM YOU'D LIKE TO REPAIR IT YOURSELF, AND TELL THEM YOU WILL PAY FOR AN ACCURATE DIAGNOSIS.
Your dealing with OBDII
I am dealing with OBDI "93 Caprice Classic"
***I have been told***
The code is read from the ABS light on the dash
If it blinkes 3 times and stays on, Bad ground, if it flashes more then that it's a bad sensor and the count will give you the bad sensor.
Unfortunatly mine blinks three time and I have not found the ground wire yet.
Good luck
sometimes as with mine i had to take it to the dealer or a trusted mechanic and have him hook up the diagnostic computer to clear it. it will tell him what is wrong with it too. mine was the catalytic converter. it will keep coming on if car is not fixed. i took mine to the dealer and it cost $1200.00 out of my pocket. find someone else if this is the issue and have them only cut off the catalytic converter and only replace that part. much cheaper only cost me $300.00 parts and labor for my 2003 yukon xl.
Same thing happened to me. Keep an eye on your trip meter for gas usage, otherwise, change the sending unit.
I lost track of mine and ran it bone dry, causing the sending unit to overheat and quit working. Pain in the *** to do it yourself but cost effective. My Step by step instructions are in another similar thread. Hope it doesn't happen to you that way. It's an '03 Malibu, so it was going to happen anyway.
You are correct on all accounts. A high number means you dying battery is sucking more juice from the Schumacker. A low number means the battery is not as thirsty. That's how I always think of how to read the meter on mine. Slow charge is a better, deeper charge. The quick charge will get you going, but you should maybe follow it up using the normal mode - car alternator and prolonged drive time. I never use quick charge, personally.
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