Still running hot, can a intake vacuum hose make this car run hot, and does the bleeder screw need to be all the way open to bleed out all air

It is running hot because have an air lock in the system. Check that the bleeder valve is not blocked . Take a hose off that is high up and run the engine until water comes out . Replace the hose and check for water in the radiator. Open the heater system to help bleed out the air.. If that fails take it to a radiator s\hop and have them pressure bleed it.

Hi there:
When any part of the hydraulic system has been disconnected for repair or replacement, air may get into the lines and cause spongy pedal action (because air can be compressed and brake fluid cannot). To correct this condition, it is necessary to bleed the hydraulic system so to be sure all air is purged.

Bleeding must start where the lines were disconnected. If lines were disconnected at the master cylinder, for example, bleeding must be done at that point before proceeding downstream.

Manual Bleeding:
Manual bleeding requires two people and a degree of patience and cooperation.
Follow the preparatory steps, above.
Attach a length of rubber hose over the bleeder screw and place the other end of the hose in a glass jar, submerged in brake fluid.
Have your assistant press down on the brake pedal, then open the bleeder screw 1 / 2 - 3 / 4 turn.
The brake pedal will go to the floor.
Close the bleeder screw-preferably before the pedal reaches the floor. Tell your assistant to allow the brake pedal to return slowly.
Repeat these steps to purge all air from the system.
When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder hose, close the bleeder screw and remove the hose. Check that the pedal is firm or at least firmer than it was when you started. If not, continue the procedure.
Check the master cylinder fluid level and add fluid accordingly. Do this after bleeding each wheel.
Repeat the bleeding operation at the remaining three wheels, ending with the one closet to the master cylinder.
Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level.

NOTE
If there is excessive air in the system, it is possible that the stroke of the brake pedal will be insufficient to purge the lines. In this case a pressure bleeder or vacuum bleeder is the easiest solution.
Vacuum Bleeding:
Vacuum bleeding can be carried out by one person. Since a good vacuum bleeder will normally move more fluid than a brake pedal stroke, this procedure is preferred. These tools are inexpensive and readily available at auto parts outlets.
Follow the preparatory steps, above.
Attach the vacuum bleeder according to the manufacturer's recommendations.
Pump up the unit until maximum vacuum is reached. Loosen the bleeder screw slightly until bubbles and fluid issue forth. Close the screw before the vacuum is equalized.
Repeat the procedure until fluid without bubbles issues from the bleeder screw.
Keep a close check on master cylinder fluid level during this procedure as vacuum bleeders move considerable amounts of fluid.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

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some times there are small bleeder screws on the intake side of the radiator hose usualy right buy the termostat housing an on the return side hose the screw size 5/16 or 7mm loosen them only a few turns slow until you see a little antifreese come out mixed with air, when the air stops tighten becarefull not to losen to much the screws will blow and hot antifreeze could burn you.
If there are not bleeder screws you can try when engine is cool make sure the radiator is full and start the car with radiator cap off and let it run
long enough for the thermastat to open it will bleed as it runs just becarefull not get burnt! Fill and return rad cap and it you bleed.Sometimes you may have to acelerate a little the move the antifreeze enough to get the air out.

Is there enough anti-freeze in the system?
If so perhaps the system needs bleeding.
On the front of the engine, on top near the big upper hose goose neck and nestled between the runners of the intake manifold is a small nipple that looks like a brake bleeder (10MM). This is a cooling system bleeder, a close cousin to the brake bleeder. When opened it will purge the system of air- likely the culpret you are experiencing. on a cold or just warm engine, this can be slightly opened with a wrench and the air can be "Burped" out. Attach a 1/4" clear hose to the nipple and open the bleeder until you see all the air has left the manifold. (Run the hose into a bucket and dispose of the used anti-freeze properly.)
if that doesn't do it, maybe the thermostat is stuck in the open position. Replace it with a cold engine and use a new gasket each time.
If all else fails, the heater core may be plugged.

The hydraulic brake system must be bled any time one of the brake lines is disconnected or air enters the system. There are two ways to bleed the system; pressure bleeding or manual bleeding. Both procedures will be given here, although pressure bleeding requires the use of some fairly expensive equipment (a pressure tank) and is seldom used. Both methods are equally effective.The correct bleeding sequence is: left front, right front, left rear, and right rear. On master cylinders equipped with a bleeder valve, bleed the master cylinder last.
PRESSURE BLEEDING

1. Clean the top of the master cylinder, remove the cover, and attach the pressure bleeding adapter.
   
2. The spring-loaded plunger on the front of the proportioning valve must be depressed while bleeding. Wire or tape can be wrapped around the valve to hold the plunger in.
   
3. Check the pressure bleeder reservoir for correct pressure 20-29 psi (137-206 kPa) and fluid level, then open the release valve.
4. Fasten a bleeder hose to the wheel cylinder or caliper bleeder nipple and submerge the free end of the hose in a transparent receptacle. The receptacle should contain enough brake fluid to cover the open end of the hose.
   
5. Open the wheel cylinder or caliper bleeder nipple and allow the fluid to flow until all bubbles disappear and an uncontaminated flow exists.
   
6. Close the nipple, remove the bleeder hose and repeat the procedure on the other wheel cylinders according to the sequence.
   

MANUAL BLEEDING(see Figures 1, 2 and 3)An alternative to the pressure method of bleeding requires two people to perform; one to depress the brake pedal and the other to open the bleeder nipples.

1. Clean the top of the master cylinder, and then remove the cover and fill the reservoir with clean brake fluid.
   
2. To prevent squirting fluid replace the cover.
   
3. The spring-loaded plunger on the front of the proportioning valve must be depressed while bleeding. Wire or tape can be wrapped around the valve to hold the plunger in.
   
4. Install a box end wrench on the left front bleeder screw.
   
5. Attach a length of small diameter, clear vinyl tubing to the bleeder screw. Submerge the other end of the rubber tubing in a glass jar partially filled with clean brake fluid. Make sure the rubber tube fits on the bleeder screw snugly or you may be squirted with brake fluid when the bleeder screw is opened.
6. Have your friend slowly depress the brake pedal. As this is done, open the bleeder screw half a turn and allow the fluid to run through the tube. Close the bleeder screw, then return the brake pedal to its fully released position.
7. Repeat this procedure until no bubbles appear in the jar. Refill the master cylinder.
   
8. Frequently check the master cylinder level during this procedure. If the reservoir runs dry, air will enter the system and the bleeding will have to be repeated.

Hope helps.

Is the master cylinder good? a bad master can cause this also did you bleed the master first before bleeding at the wheel and also make sure the bleeder screw is clean, if the hose is good then theres only a few things, a bad master or a master that wasnt bleed, try bleeding the master first then try rebleeding the brakes.

sounds like you didnt bleed the cooling system there is 2 bleed screws 1 on the t stat housing the other on the intake

the most commen problem with no heat is an air lock in the cooling system
when the vehicle is cold remove the rad cap
then there is a air bleed screw on the coolant pipe that goes across the front valve cover open the bleed screw about 3/4 to a full turn
use a funnel and over fill the rad into the funnel (this will make a mess)
make sure you have a steady streem of coolant coming out of the bleeder when you have a steady streem close the bleeder then there is a bleeder screw on the thermostat hosing open it and when you have a steady streem from it close that one then put the rad cap back on
and start the vehicle put your heat controls on VENT ,HOT AND HIGH BLOWER SPEED
run the vehicle and make sure you have HOT AIR COMMING OUT OF THE VENTS NOT WARM if its just warm then shut the engine off and open the bleeder on the pipe not the T-STAT HOUSING
keep repeating till you get HOT AIR COMMING FROM THE VENTS
top up the over flow bottle the rad will be fine
hope this helps

[1] plugged radiator core. replace radiator,not cleanable
[2] a bunch of dead bugs stuck on air conditioner condenser in front of radiator. open hood and look at front of it if a bunch of debris blast it off with water hose
[3] the air not properly bled from the engine cooling system. some have a bleeder screw that must be opened while engine running untill all air is let out if i dont have a screw for bleeding then you have to let engine run long enough to open thermistat i may take a while when radiator tank feels hot then thermistat is open. coolant level should have dropped top off and put cap on
[4] electric cooling fan not working

To bleed the brake system open all the bleeders and let the system gravity bleed for @ 1/2 hour ensuring the master stays full. Then close all bleeders and starting furthest from the master (r/r) have someone pump the brakes 2-3 times,hold the pedal down, then open the bleeder,close the bleeder,and repeat untill there are no air bubbles and the brake fluid is running clear .Repeat for all wheels in this order R/R L/R R/F L/F ensuring master cykinder does not run empty. You cannot pump the pedal with a bleeder open you will be sucking air back into the system. Once you finish all wheels repeat to ensure there is no air remaining in system.