Nothing wrong with your heat; you are getting some when driving or when the engine is revving higher than idle.
1 - check your coolant level when engine is cold. You should have coolant up to the radiator cap or overflow bottle cap(depending on model). If it is low, fill it with the appropriate mixture or ready mixed coolant. DO THIS WHEN ENGINE HAS NOT BEEN RUNNING FOR AT LEAST A FEW HOURS OR FIRST THING IN THE MORNING - DO NOT ATTEMPT WHILE ENGINE IS WARM!!!! Once you have filled the radiator and/or the overflow bottle, reinstall cap and you should have heat at all times. If coolant was low, check for leaks.
2 - if you have a diesel engine, most of them produce basically no heat at idle. Try to rev it a bit - no need to gun it, just hold the revs up for a few minutes and see if you get warm air when not moving.
3 - the thermostat may be stuck in ''open'' position thus allowing too much flow of coolant through the engine and preventing it from getting warm enough to provide heat at idle. If that is the case, replace the thermostat. Do this last as it is likely the most expensive way to go.
Just a thought, your vehicle is now about 12 years old. When was the last time you had the cooling system flushed, and coolant replaced? More than 3 years? Strongly suggest you get that done or do it yourself if you can do it in an environmentally friendly way.
Hope this helps!!
Blessings!
Sounds like either low anti freeze, thermostat is not working or your heater core is leaking. Is there any anti freeze leaking under the car? You water pump could be bad if there is fluid on the ground below.
SOURCE: rear air conditioner
Hi Moonaw,
Take the vehicle to an expert on AC and ask them to check the gas pressure. If that's ok, then have the evaporator (that's the thing that looks like a small radiator which is the heat exchange unit inside the cabin. also have them check the expansion valve for the rear compartment...The fault must be in that section as the condenser, dryer and compressor are common to both front and rear outputs.
Best regards
Johngee10
SOURCE: 2002 caravan, heater problems
That was a common complaint a few years back, due to the fact that the heater core is a little too much higher than the engine, which requires that extra push it gets when engine RPM's increase. One thing I did do on my Caravan was remove my hoses to the heater core, and use a small external pump with hoses to circulate C.L.R. through my core for a while, then let it sit with CLR in the core overnight.Next day I circulated it through again, both ways by reversing hoses, and then re-attached hoses, bled air out of system, and notice quite an improvement in heat at idle. Once cleaned out, the heater core allowed coolant flow through it better at idle. If your stumped by explanation, take it to an automotive shop, or a Rad shop, and get a quote on flushing that core out for you. I recommend the CLR, but it might be too time consuming for you , but a flush will probably show some noticeable improvement.
SOURCE: Heater blows cold air unless accelerating
1.maybe your thermostat is no opening or closing.
2. not enough Ant-Freeze
3. Low on water
With more details on the engine i may be able to help you more. for example what is the temp reading after it idles awhile or does it blow warmewr when driving ?
SOURCE: My 2002 dodge ram 1500
sounds link the servo door has either broke off or is not working and it is stuck in a closed position
SOURCE: HEAT ONLY BLOWING WARM AIR ON PASSENGER SIDE
have someone check the driver's side temperature control doors, in behind the radio. there are two push rods attached to a plastic piece. the connector on one or both of these push rods, become unattached. leaving you with cold air. once that temperature door is closed you get hot air. passenger side still mixes, but not drivers. All or none for heat on Driver's side
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